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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do I get the bearing race removal tool (part number HD-34902) under the bearing race to pull it off? There isn't room under the race.
Do I have to grind a slot in the race for the tool?



 

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Just Ride
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It's been pressed on too far. Clutch hub causes that. Grind a slot length wise being careful not to nick mainshaft. Should slide off.
 

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Sometimes those inner races walk inward on the mainshaft.

As Fritz suggested, grind a slot into the shaft, not all the way through, and tap it with a chisel, it should crack and then it will be loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Grinder \m/~..~\m/

(a little Judas Priest reference in the title)
Just to get this right...
I grind an axial slot down the length of the race and chisel it off?
I don't grind a radial slot for the tool to slip onto?
Hmm, know anyone that wants to buy a bearing removal tool? Ugh...
Thanks for the information guys. I've never disassembled a transmission. Up to now it's been fun.
 

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sometimes the experience learned has the most value -

had a few things that made my 103 rebuild not fun at all,headaches that came from no place- in the end- man it was kool
 

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Don`t let go of that tool...
Usually the bearing doesn`t walk on the shaft, so the tool works fine in most cases.
 

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Just Ride
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It's the tool that puts the inner bearing back on that's more important.
 

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hahahaha i had a stupid thing like that once . had a hellofa time getting that thing off. wound up getting my dremmal out and cutting that dang thing out. i was worried the whole time. it was on an axle shaft so nicking it was not an option. good luck.
 

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Retired citizen
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First, do not heat the race.
Remove the horseshoe from the puller then screw the bolts into a standard clamp style bearing puller. Grind a groove around the race and clamp the puller onto the slot. Center the puller forcing screw into the mainshaft and tighten until the race pulls out far enough to get the horseshoe behind the race.
Reassemble the puller with the horseshoe and finish removing the race.
When installing the new race use the horseshoe as a depth gauge.
 

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Riding With Respect
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Go around to the other side to the trap door and loosen the nut on the mainshaft. With a soft hammer, peck it in enough to expose the back side of the race for the removal tool.
This video done by Baker covers it and starts talking about it at @3:00.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdUFVUfdZAY
 

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Retired citizen
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I watched that, seems like a lot of trouble to go thru.
If taking the shift fork assy. apart I suggest getting some good pics so it goes back together correctly.
Also replace the seal that's behind that race right away too.
Actually, when I do those I replace all the accessible seals and gaskets before reassembly. Avoids the possibility of a leak and another tear down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Needle Bearings



This little needle bearing is what started my adventure. I was accelerating from 4th to 5th and my clutch lever gave out. I went limp in my left hand (insert joke). When I took off the clutch cable housing cover, I found the broken bearing cage and 7 of the 9 needle bearings. The other 2 came out when I drained the oil. The needles looked OK, but I need to inspect the gears for damage and replace this needle bearing. All that said; I'd like to try loosening the shaft nut, tapping the shaft to expose the bottom of the bearing race to install the removal tool. Will this procedure damage the gears of the transmission? I'd like to keep the gear set if they're not damaged.
Thanks again for all the information
 

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Friend of Al Swiners
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HD Mistake

I recently developed a Primary/Tranny leak.

I took everything down to the belt drive sprocket but could go no further. The inner race had walked into the tranny by 5/32". Then, I could NOT get the inner race off of the mainshaft. Tried welding tabs and used a gear puller... all to no avail.

I removed the tranny from the bike a took it in to the local HD Shop for repairs. Since they were going to have to open things up, I had them replace the mainshaft bearing and seals. I have +115,000miles on the bike/tranny, so replacing the main bearing was for good measure.

I asked that they not reinstall a new race (leave it off), because I was planning on using the Baker Mainshaft Bearing. This Baker bearing does away with the inner race completely and rides directly on the shaft.

They completed the job in 1-day and I thought I was being blessed. That is until I noticed that the HD Shop had cut into the mainshaft with their cutoff tool. The cut is 3/8" long and 1/64" deep. If I were going back to the OEM race, then this may not have been a problem. However, using the newly designed Baker bearing & seal the cut rides right on the bearing.

Long Story made short, the HD Shop is going to replace the mainshaft. It's on back-order so it will be a couple of weeks to get it in (post Sturgis timing I'm sure).
 

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Friend of Al Swiners
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178 Posts
Tranny Rebuild Complete

UPDATE:
Good News! The local HD service dept. actually did replace the tranny mainshaft with a new one. And they left off the inner race, that caused all the problems in the first place. By using the Baker Primary Bearing, it eliminates that inner race and prevents that "walking race" in the future.

So now I have a completely rebuilt tranny with new bearing, seals, and mainshaft. Time to go riding... :grin
 

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Curmudgeon
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Nice
 
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