Take it easy on the bike for the first 500 miles. No full throttle/high RPMS and no cruise control or highway cruising. You want to vary the engine speed a lot during this period so lots of city/in town riding, lots of stop and go.
break in process
Hey yall, my question is regarding the "break-in" stage of a brand new bike IS it going to affect anything on the bike if i ride it home on leave right after i pick the bike up? What all does the so called break in consist of? thanks.
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okay sounds good i was debating on driving it home to CT about 1500 miles from sc. Guess ill fly home for leave haha
You would be fine taking it on leave. Just try and knock out the 1K inspection enroute. The I-95 traffic will make sure you vary your speed and do the stop N go. I took mine on a 800 mile trip a week after I got it. If you need a break around Virginia look me up. Enjoy the leave!
Sweet sounds good guys Im looking for an enclosed trailer before i take it home because i will be driving my truck back down to base once i get up there.
If you hit 1000 while riding, just get the fluids serviced on the road at a dealer, they will cover you.Sweet sounds good guys Im looking for an enclosed trailer before i take it home because i will be driving my truck back down to base once i get up there.
Get a 14 foot by 7 foot minimum. V-nose if you can find it.
.BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.
Following that,
Drive vehicle normally but avoid sustained high speed during the first 100 miles.
At no time should the engine be lugged. Lugging is said to exist when the engine does not respond when you twist the throttle.
Taken from Hastings piston ring website
Untitled Document
Ive also heard that during the break in process you should wait till there is about 1000 miles on it B4 doing up grades like exhaust and air intake... I call bull shit on this because ive seen dealers add these upgrades to their brand new bikes to jack up the price.
I second the B.S. The dealers will install anything and everything you are willing to buy before you even take delivery.Ive also heard that during the break in process you should wait till there is about 1000 miles on it B4 doing up grades like exhaust and air intake... I call bull shit on this because ive seen dealers add these upgrades to their brand new bikes to jack up the price.
2 of my 4 Harleys were new and bought from the same Dealer. Shovel was bone stock.
Evo was camed\carbed\piped at my request with a package the Dealer had developed using their dyno.
I asked about break-in time on the Evo. The Owner, Will Roeder, RIP, looked at me with a big grin and just said "Break in? Ride it like you stole it. Your covered."
I loved Dealing with that shop.
Evo was camed\carbed\piped at my request with a package the Dealer had developed using their dyno.
I asked about break-in time on the Evo. The Owner, Will Roeder, RIP, looked at me with a big grin and just said "Break in? Ride it like you stole it. Your covered."
I loved Dealing with that shop.
While I agree that the waiting 1000 miles for options is BS there is a plus side. You will better appreciate the mods if you rode the bike stock.
Been waiting 915 miles and one month waiting on my Rush 2-1 exhaust to come in. I have little doubt I will appreciate the mods more for the wait.
Been waiting 915 miles and one month waiting on my Rush 2-1 exhaust to come in. I have little doubt I will appreciate the mods more for the wait.
I'm hoping so, JPR. I really like the idea of the ceramic coating inside and out and the advertised 200 degree radiated heat reduction.
Plus from everything I've read here and other places the 2-1 will give the best performance.
I also want to give them credit. They were ordered a week before I picked up the bike last month. The parts manager told me that they had had a problem at the factory with scheduling and they would take some time to come in. After bitching at the parts manager on a bi-weekly basis for a few weeks he had a guy (Catfish) with Rush Racing call me and explain the situation. Catfish called me again yesterday to keep me up to date and probably to keep me from calling the parts manager and risking me changing to another shock. He even started to offer to upgrade me (at no cost) to another system, The Wraith, but when I told him how my bike was set up he said he would still do it but it wouldn't be the best thing for the bike unless I had plans to do significantly more upgrades than I really ever have plans to do.
Plus from everything I've read here and other places the 2-1 will give the best performance.
I also want to give them credit. They were ordered a week before I picked up the bike last month. The parts manager told me that they had had a problem at the factory with scheduling and they would take some time to come in. After bitching at the parts manager on a bi-weekly basis for a few weeks he had a guy (Catfish) with Rush Racing call me and explain the situation. Catfish called me again yesterday to keep me up to date and probably to keep me from calling the parts manager and risking me changing to another shock. He even started to offer to upgrade me (at no cost) to another system, The Wraith, but when I told him how my bike was set up he said he would still do it but it wouldn't be the best thing for the bike unless I had plans to do significantly more upgrades than I really ever have plans to do.
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