Take it easy on the bike for the first 500 miles. No full throttle/high RPMS and no cruise control or highway cruising. You want to vary the engine speed a lot during this period so lots of city/in town riding, lots of stop and go.
If you hit 1000 while riding, just get the fluids serviced on the road at a dealer, they will cover you.Sweet sounds good guys Im looking for an enclosed trailer before i take it home because i will be driving my truck back down to base once i get up there.
1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.
Drive vehicle normally but avoid sustained high speed during the first 100 miles.
At no time should the engine be lugged. Lugging is said to exist when the engine does not respond when you twist the throttle.
Taken from Hastings piston ring website
I second the B.S. The dealers will install anything and everything you are willing to buy before you even take delivery.Ive also heard that during the break in process you should wait till there is about 1000 miles on it B4 doing up grades like exhaust and air intake... I call bull shit on this because ive seen dealers add these upgrades to their brand new bikes to jack up the price.