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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,
Currently own KLR for dual purpose and a BMWGT for touring. Want to get down to one bike (well, probably two). I now am all roads with mostly touring (an Iron Butt here and there). Do about 15k-20k per year. Have always tried to buy a Harley but the ergos didn't quite fit vs the BMW or KLR (6'2" but old and not as flexible as I used to be...hip, knee, if you're over 60 you know the drill).

But, I am now of the opinion after testing a couple Road Kings that I can make it work with some seat help. So, when buying used (I have my sites on a couple 2011s and a 2012 all with under 10k miles, in fact the '12 has under 5k) what in particular would you make a closer inspection of (besides the obvious cosmetic stuff). I am not a mechanical guy but understand a thing or two about what makes a bike go.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Steve
 

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Wayward Son
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Tires. With so few miles the tread on the 2012 should be good. The 2011 probably as well. But look for dry rot. All rubber lines. Possible dry rot as well.
Test ride if the owner will let you.

If nothing turns up when riding I would not consider the tires or lines deal killers.

Am not sure if you can pull up any previous trouble codes, if any, from the on board diagnostics or not.
 

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luv the low country
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Like TS said, tires, especially on the '11 and when the last service was done, also if any engine mods were done. Tires on the '12 with less than 5k shouldn't be an issue. Do you have your current bike/s serviced by an indy, if so have him check out both bikes before you buy.
 

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My 2012 FLHRC has 50k miles and no major issues. Tire changes at about every 13k; routine maintenance as listed in the Owner's manual; a couple of burnt out bulbs on the passing lamps; replaced a defective rear brake caliper while under warranty; replace a defective stator while under warranty (actually a recall notice); is about all that I have had to do mechanically.

For your height, you may want to consider extended floorboards and highway pegs to help your legs stretch out. Different handlebars may be something to consider as well. Get the seat right first, then figure out if you need to make any changes to the bars. I am 6'-1" and changed the seat, floorboards and handlebars to provide more comfort.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All are HD dealer bikes. Fluids, etc changed. Rear tire on the 2011 change (9,800 miles on the bike). Have checked the lines on all the bikes, steering response, brakes, etc. Should I worry about the drive belt?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
..... Different handlebars may be something to consider as well. Get the seat right first, then figure out if you need to make any changes to the bars. I am 6'-1" and changed the seat, floorboards and handlebars to provide more comfort.
I have peg lowering and bar risers on my KLR. Figured the seat and handlebars would be required on the RK at least. Glad to hear another guy about my height puts on a fair amount of miles with similar mods on a RK. Yeah, I'll ride whatever I get for awhile and modify as necessary. The bike is 200#s heavier than my current distance bike, so it will take some getting used to before I make to many changes.
 

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The drive belt is a pretty durable item and should be fine provided it doesn't have any visible fray, teeth missing or irregular wear showing. While you are down there checking the belt, look at the pulley too to be sure that it isn't damaged. I really wouldn't expect there to be any problems, but sometimes a rock can get between the belt and pulley and cause a chip or tear.
 
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