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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I just purchased a 2001 heritage softail classic. I am second owner. The original owner did a stage 2 screaming eagle big bore kit and replaced cam tensioner with screaming eagle. The bike had 4,000 miles when all upgrades were made. They were replaced 18years ago. I have all records .The bike has 32,000 miles. Do I need to replace cam tensioner again or am I good for a while? Thank you for any suggestions
 

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IIRC, HD recommended replacing the spring style cam tensioners every 30 K miles... So you are right there...
If it were my bike I'd at least open the timing chain cover and take a look-see at how they are wearing. Why guess?
 

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Did he only replace spring tensioners with new ones? I see Screamin eagle mentioned, was it the SE kit with cam plate and new hydraulic style tensioners?
"I have all records" see what you can find as to what they used.

If spring tensioners, as noted above you want to check.
But, if updated with new kit when the engine was done, you should be good.
Huge difference in these types of tensioners.

This is the kit
 

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Did he only replace spring tensioners with new ones? I see Screamin eagle mentioned, was it the SE kit with cam plate and new hydraulic style tensioners?
"I have all records" see what you can find as to what they used.

If spring tensioners, as noted above you want to check.
But, if updated with new kit when the engine was done, you should be good.
Huge difference in these types of tensioners.

This is the kit
That's the kit I put in my Night Train. With those hydraulic tensioners, I'd say inspect at 50k and every 25k afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IIRC, HD recommended replacing the spring style cam tensioners every 30 K miles... So you are right there...
If it were my bike I'd at least open the timing chain cover and take a look-see at how they are wearing. Why guess?
I was thinking same thing, I’ll have Harley check it if it wasn’t the new upgraded kit I will change. Peace of mind for the next 50,000. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did he only replace spring tensioners with new ones? I see Screamin eagle mentioned, was it the SE kit with cam plate and new hydraulic style tensioners?
"I have all records" see what you can find as to what they used.

If spring tensioners, as noted above you want to check.
But, if updated with new kit when the engine was done, you should be good.
Huge difference in these types of tensioners.

This is the kit
From what I can see from invoice it was a new spring tensioner, not the new “kit” , think I’m going to have them inspect it and change it if needed. Thank you..
 

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With all that "BLING" don't forget attention to your lower end - just watched a bunch of horror stories on YOU TUBE about people beefing up their top end but neglecting their lower end and then you can have a bigger problem!
 

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I personally am going to do the whole new trip to gears. As far as I'm concerned the tensioner is a joke and undependable period. My 2019 0nly has 3000 miles on it and it is a M8 motor, I have done all the oil mods on it with my own design and fabrication and all that's left is the S&S gear kit with all the new works.
 

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I personally am going to do the whole new trip to gears. As far as I'm concerned the tensioner is a joke and undependable period. My 2019 0nly has 3000 miles on it and it is a M8 motor, I have done all the oil mods on it with my own design and fabrication and all that's left is the S&S gear kit with all the new works.
Verify the runout on the shaft.... BEFORE ordering all those parts! The runout tolerance for the gear drive is wa-ay tighter than factory spec for the chain set up. Just trying to save you a LOT of cash. Check the specs!
 

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Verify the runout on the shaft.... BEFORE ordering all those parts! The runout tolerance for the gear drive is wa-ay tighter than factory spec for the chain set up. Just trying to save you a LOT of cash. Check the specs!
Thanks 1/2 Ton, I know that's why I'm going to replace everything, oil pump, cam shaft bearings , cam, pushrods, push rod covers, tappets, billet tappet guides, billet top plate , and gears, everything from the inside out from S&S. I get a 30% discount and my cost is Around $1165.00 for the works and I install myself. A stage 3 update...
 

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Verify the runout on the shaft.... BEFORE ordering all those parts! The runout tolerance for the gear drive is wa-ay tighter than factory spec for the chain set up. Just trying to save you a LOT of cash. Check the specs!
[/QUOTE]
Thanks 1/2 Ton, I know that's why I'm going to replace everything, oil pump, cam shaft bearings , cam, pushrods, push rod covers, tappets, billet tappet guides, billet top plate, billet oil pump and gears, everything from the inside out from S&S. I get a 30% discount and my cost is Around $1165.00 for the works and I install myself. A stage 3 update...
 

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Thanks 1/2 Ton, I know that's why I'm going to replace everything, oil pump, cam shaft bearings , cam, pushrods, push rod covers, tappets, billet tappet guides, billet top plate, billet oil pump and gears, everything from the inside out from S&S. I get a 30% discount and my cost is Around $1165.00 for the works and I install myself. A stage 3 update...
[/QUOTE]
You can replace every component in the bike BUT, if the runout of the crankshaft is beyond the specified tolerance for the gear drive cam (which is way tighter than the factory allowed runout for a chain drive cam)... The thing WILL Grenade itself. This tolerance is driven by the crankshaft.. It doesn't matter what you change that's bolted on to it.
 

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Hi Roger,
here is a link to some good info about runout that 1/2 Ton is warning you about.

 
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Thanks 1/2 Ton, I know that's why I'm going to replace everything, oil pump, cam shaft bearings , cam, pushrods, push rod covers, tappets, billet tappet guides, billet top plate, billet oil pump and gears, everything from the inside out from S&S. I get a 30% discount and my cost is Around $1165.00 for the works and I install myself. A stage 3 update...
You can replace every component in the bike BUT, if the runout of the crankshaft is beyond the specified tolerance for the gear drive cam (which is way tighter than the factory allowed runout for a chain drive cam)... The thing WILL Grenade itself. This tolerance is driven by the crankshaft.. It doesn't matter what you change that's bolted on to it.
[/QUOTE]
Your right and I intend on checking that before I order the mod kit from S&S, that step is always recommended in this mod. Thanks 1/2 Ton ride safe....
 

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I just replaced all of my tensioners and plate on my 2001 Heritage Springer. With the Feuling set up and their 525 hybrid cams. Timken cam bearings and S&S Quikie push rods. Got a PV from Fuel Moto and tune. Thinking about a 95 big bore kit this winter if finances will allow. Runs pretty dam good now though. My bike has very low miles for its age and the original tensioners werent bad yet at 15000 miles. But hey were showing a swiss cheese look to them. Not wear but tiny hollow spots in the shoe so I decided to just change it out for peace of mind. No regrets.
 
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