Harley Davidson Forums banner

Cam tensioners.

2255 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Dave63
Ok
I know its a bit a dead horse. But im going to open up the cam cover to inspect. My 06 RoadKing has 20k on it and i hear some noise.

If I find wear its obvious i need to replace or up grade to gears. But right now i don't have the $ for the gears. About a $1000. In parts for cam kit , tappets, gaskets, fluids & filter and what else.

I think its in my budget to replace the stock tensioners with the same so i can finish the season with my butt on the bike and put the coin aside for the proper parts.

First ?
Is there any way to replace the tensioners with out popping the heads off or cutting the push rods and using adjustable rods.

Second ?
What parts should need for the stock replacement. What would any of you do? And why?

Third ?
What parts for a gear drive up grade and why?

Last ? What kind of $ am i really looking at for either way?

Thanks.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Ok
I know its a bit a dead horse. But im going to open up the cam cover to inspect. My 06 RoadKing has 20k on it and i hear some noise.

If I find wear its obvious i need to replace or up grade to gears. But right now i don't have the $ for the gears. About a $1000. In parts for cam kit , tappets, gaskets, fluids & filter and what else.

I think its in my budget to replace the stock tensioners with the same so i can finish the season with my butt on the bike and put the coin aside for the proper parts.

First ?
Is there any way to replace the tensioners with out popping the heads off or cutting the push rods and using adjustable rods.

Second ?
What parts should need for the stock replacement. What would any of you do? And why?


Third ?

What parts for a gear drive up grade and why?

Last ? What kind of $ am i really looking at for either way?

Thanks.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
1.) Yes....you're only removing the rocker box cover and rocker arms and shaft. Not the whole head.

Can you do it without doing that? No.

2.) Primary and secondery tensioners, Gasket kit (Jims makes one including rocker gaskets and oil pump o-rings)

Tensioners: $ 67 each
Gasket kit: $48

I'd pull oil pump relief valve and clean and polish it, and polishing the chains doesn't hurt.

($ free)

Good time to add a Baisley 15% oil pump spring.

($13)

YOU ALSO want to remove and replace your inner cam bearings. ($15 a set)

That requires the puller and installer tools.

($150 off Ebay for both)

Gear drive will take new cams, and you have to have a minimum of 0.002"-0.003" of crank end play, or you can't do it.

With that, if you install gear drive cams, you need to add more fuel, which is a fuel adder for you, as XEIDs won't work on a 2006. You have no O2 sensors.

Fuel Adder- $200-350

You'll also have to inspect the oil pump internal body. If it has excessive wear, that's another $300.
See less See more
Thanks Dave. More to think over.
You seam to be able help a lot of guys.
What are good sources for the gaskets. And tools.
Harley or other.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
On the crank shaft end play limits. Is that to prevent slippage and wear?


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
On the crank shaft end play limits. Is that to prevent slippage and wear?


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Crank run out equates to a "warble" of the crank that is most pronouced in the end. When you put the gear on that crank, the gear now warbles as well. So, on every rotation, the warble carries the gear too tight against the opposing gear and at the other extreme sloppy away. Invision how an oblong cam lobe moves the tappet. Same idea, but the gear and/or crank can't move like the tappet does.

At minimum, it's noisy. But, it also stresses the bearings in the cam plate and the crank bearings themselves.

All that said, I am going to be very surprised if you post that there is enough wear at 20K to requiire replacement.

I wouldn't spend the money on the gear system if it were me. If you go with the stock tensioners and polish the chains, you're going to get 40-50K miles out of the repair. That's seems reasonable to me.
At minimum, it's noisy. But, it also stresses the bearings in the cam plate and the crank bearings themselves.
Yep......It also prematurely wears the gears due to excessive lash. You can't run a constant lash, when one gear is moving back and forth on an uneven/true plane.

HD says up to 0.012" is acceptable on crank runout. That's insane. The used to bolt their crank pins into the flywheel, and now they're simply PRESSED with 80 tons of force.

They scissor.....

With chains, you can get away with that. There's flex room as the tensioners take up and allow chain slack to change.

With gears.....no can do.

As runout gets worse, It then wipes out the inside of the oil pump, as the oil pump drives off the end of the crank, farthest from the flywheels, where runout is highest.

As pump wears, oil psi drops.

Baisley spring is obtained via Baisley Hi-Performance Home Page

Almost 100% of HD oil pumps only have wear in one side. That's from the crank runout moving the gyros (affixed to crank end) to one side of the fixed oil pump body, due to crank runout.
See less See more
Just FWIW. I replaced my tensioner shoes with standard stock ones from Harley at 49K. The inside one was into the metal arm. I went back in 15,000 miles later for another reason and was a bit surprised to see approx. 30-40% wear already. I don't think there's any way I'll get 40-50K before having to replace them again. Only next time, it should be easier, since I already have the adjustable pushrods fitted. I may then go with the upated hydraulic set up.

--
Chasarms
Thanks. That explains a ton and great info.
What products and methode do you recommend polishing these parts.
I do have a bench top polisher.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Do adjustable pushrods have any advantage. They do seam to be easier for future tensioner replacements. From what ive read.
What is the down side of adjustable. Push rods.


Dave 63
Thanks for the sources.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Adjustable pushorod allow access into the cam chest without pulling rocker box covers or rockers and shafts. Tanks too on most bikes.

Adjustable pushrods allow builders/mechanics to set lifter plunger depth greater than 0.0100" into lifter bore, (New depth of 0.0140-0.0150") allowing for quieter operation of lifters with steeper cam lobe ramps when cams are replaced with performance cams..
So correct me if my understanding is flawed. Run out refers to an elliptical action at the end of a spinning shaft.
Causing and up and down motion that will bind wable a gear.

This is why there is wear on one side of the oil pump parts that is furthest away at the end of the shaft.

Ok got it.

Dave.
Will that oil pump spring help increase oil pressure at higher speeds. I seem to loose power on the highway when i have to pass some one. Almost like the lifters are loosing pressure and lifting as high.
Or is this normal at 70/80 mph.
Found it at there web site thanks.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
See less See more
Chasarms
Thanks. That explains a ton and great info.
What products and methode do you recommend polishing these parts.
I do have a bench top polisher.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

One of the "theories" on the premature tensioner wear was that the cam chain links - being stamped - had sharp edges, and those edges cut into the tensioner shoe. Honestly, by the time the chain has ran over the shoe for 25-30K miles, it's likely to be as polished as it might ever be anyway.

One point on the adjustable pushrods:

Pay attention to what you are buying. Not all adjustable rods are "quickie" rods. If you want to install them without removing the rockers, you'll need the quickes. They have a telescoping design and collapse enough to fit through the opening in the pushrod cover with the motor stilled fully assembled. The pushrod covers come with the S&S rods.
So correct me if my understanding is flawed. Run out refers to an elliptical action at the end of a spinning shaft.
Causing and up and down motion that will bind wable a gear.

This is why there is wear on one side of the oil pump parts that is furthest away at the end of the shaft.

Ok got it.

Dave.
Will that oil pump spring help increase oil pressure at higher speeds. I seem to loose power on the highway when i have to pass some one. Almost like the lifters are loosing pressure and lifting as high.
Or is this normal at 70/80 mph.
Found it at there web site thanks.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
It adds 15% more oil psi across the board.
Just a ? to throw out there. I know some guys that have 50,000 on their bikes no problem. Do you think crank run out has something to do with tension shoe wear? Gear wobble causing chain to slap up and down.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Depends on the years for wear... Just follow the Moco recommendations and inspect as required per model year.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
I do....but not the main cause.

If the crank has excessive runout, it'll show up more with premature oil pump failure.

Typical signs are:

1.) Starting engine, and it takes 6-10 seconds for engine oil light to go out.

2.) Low oil pressure thoughout rev ranges.

3.) excessive tappet noise.

My bike has 45K and has 80% of the tensioners left and they're original.

Over revving plays a part as does general abuse in the tensioner longevity.

Items that have been discredited are oil brand, syn vs dino and viscosity.

Although the runout is part of it, I gotta side with Chasarm's version on the chain "sharpness" due to MFGing methods.
See less See more
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top