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Discussion Starter #1
2009 Sportster Custom 1200. I changed the grips on my bike. Afterward, I keyed on, fuel injector whined like normal, everything seemed good until I pressed the start switch. It made one deep click, and that was it. Continuous attempts also only produced the same click noise.

I know it's not a lot to go on, but I'm pretty new at this stuff. Any suggestions?
 

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Intro??? And if your injector is whining give it some cheese ,if your fuel pump is whining -normal. Check your battery! and switch wires maybe pinched or damaged.
 

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luv the low country
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Yup, intro would be appropriate.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What do you mean, intro?
Yeah, I'm going to throw the trickle charger on tonight and give it a shot tomorrow evening.
 

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Glad you found the intro page :) Might seem silly but many people log in just to ask one question on several different forums. The intro is just a good way of making yourself at home first.

Anyhow, anything new after the charger? Also, after you replaced the grips did the throttle move through the entire range of motion with the same amount of resistance as before? Hoping the top charge does the trick but keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looks like the trickle charger topped off the battery. I'm going to wait until it cools down a bit before I start working on it. I'm also about to run to the dealership to pick up a pair of brass ferrules to replaced the ones I tore up thinking they were locks to be turned with a flathead. (D'oh! Service manual didn't really describe their removal)

I'll let you guys know what happens.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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My guess is nothing will happen, until you unpinch the wire in the right side (front brake side) switch pod, that is currently pinched and grounded.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I'll give that a look Dave. Because now all I'm getting is a faint click below the seat. Does this kind of thing happen often?
 

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Wayward Son
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Yeah, I'll give that a look Dave. Because now all I'm getting is a faint click below the seat. Does this kind of thing happen often?
Just about every time grips are swapped and the wire Dave mentions gets pinched\grounded.
 

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On the loose
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In most cases , if some thing was functioning fine and isn't after you added , changed , modified , adjusted , or altered in anyway .... 9 outa 10 times you did some thing to cause it.

Backtracking your steps will usually lead to the cause of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I took apart the switch housing and took off the clamp that holds the brake lever on. As far as I can tell (which isn't very), the insulation was not broken or torn. EDIT: I'm not ruling out the short. My hand feels a little weird after handling the switch housing. It may just be hypochondria, but it feels like kinda like that dull ache from a mild shock. I get that feeling a lot, though. May just be from fighting with the cable tension lock nuts.

Also, I tried starting the bike through the process of completely removing it and putting it back on, in case the cable actually was pinched. No change.

With the battery tender left on, it registers as charged.

I know this is probably something stupid simple but I just started learning. This is one of the first minor repairs to a bike I've done.
 

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Did you try pushing the start button when you had the housing back apart? If no, try loosening it, push button, wiggle housing, it may turn over. Then you know there's a short. Like mentioned, it's usually the last thing you did. There could be a pinched wire, and enough current is still going to the relay to make it click, but not enough to energize it. Look at all wires/harness in the area, it could be the front brake clamp.
Walk away when you get po'd, and come back later.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I tried starting it with the housing taken apart and the wiring pulled away from the fork and separated from the brake clamp.

EDIT: I may end up throwing in the towel and having a shop come pick it up. I'd rather not mess it up worse than it is by trying to fix it.
 

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Check your battery connections just to be sure there tight , do you have lights .... signals ?
 

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I tried starting it with the housing taken apart and the wiring pulled away from the fork and separated from the brake clamp.

EDIT: I may end up throwing in the towel and having a shop come pick it up. I'd rather not mess it up worse than it is by trying to fix it.
Sounds as if this may be your best bet as you are unfamiliar with the bike n wrenching on it. Personally I hate dealing with electrical problems, so many possibilities that can cause said problem(s). G/L Joe!
 

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Certified HD Mech.
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Fairly common problem here. Assuming the battery is up-to-snuff... the logical answer is to loosen the screws to the brake lever (torx 27) and loosen the switch housing screws (torx 25). Investigate the wires, they can get pinched in the switch housing or sometimes under the brake lever bracket where the wires pass - verify the wires are passing through the detent (bent area) on the underside of the handlebar so the wires can pass under the laver housing and into the switch housing uninterrupted. Happens a lot. Also it is common to pull or twist the wires when you install the top of the switch housing. This can sometimes also pinch the wire(s)
 

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Fairly common problem here. Assuming the battery is up-to-snuff... the logical answer is to loosen the screws to the brake lever (torx 27) and loosen the switch housing screws (torx 25). Investigate the wires, they can get pinched in the switch housing or sometimes under the brake lever bracket where the wires pass - verify the wires are passing through the detent (bent area) on the underside of the handlebar so the wires can pass under the laver housing and into the switch housing uninterrupted. Happens a lot. Also it is common to pull or twist the wires when you install the top of the switch housing. This can sometimes also pinch the wire(s)
If you look three post above yours you will see he has already tried that.
 

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I'm thinking the control connection is good since it's getting a deep click , it's completing the circuit to the solenoid ? Relay ? but there may not be enough to spin the starter.

Do a fuse check make sure something didn't short and blow a fuse.

I mentioned battery connections because a loose connection will provide power just not enough for what a starter draws.

Let us know what you or the dealer finds.
 

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I tried starting it with the housing taken apart and the wiring pulled away from the fork and separated from the brake clamp.

EDIT: I may end up throwing in the towel and having a shop come pick it up. I'd rather not mess it up worse than it is by trying to fix it.
Joe, have you tried cleaning battery terminals to make sure there is a good connection?
 
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