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Discussion Starter #1
Help!
I guess I'm an idiot. I just finished putting new apes and cables on my 07 WideGlide. Took it for a test ride around the driveway this afternoon and wasn't happy with the way the clutch felt, so decided to adjust it. I've never done this before, but reading up on this forum, reading the manual, and watching some youtube videos it didn't look super difficult so what the heck.
Well, after "adjusting" it I now can't get out of neutral. I can shift down and up and the green N goes out, but there's no familiar "clunk" and the bike doesn't move when "in gear".
I've tried and retried four or five times with no luck: give cable free play...loosen inner nut in primary, turn adjuster screw until it bottoms out...back off 1/2 turn...hold adjuster screw while tightening inner nut...take up free play out of cable to 1/16 to 1/8".
The first time I attempted the adjustment the bike was in Neutral. Did I screw something up?
Thanks for any input. I just want to ride.
 

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Wayward Son
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The adjustment that needed to be made was probably to the cable itself. Not internally.
 

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Gypsy on Parade
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Man, I've read and re-read your post. Maybe I'm an idiot too. Hang tight, somebody smarter than us will be along here I'm a minute with some pearly drops of wisdom.


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Hard Member
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Dave63 wil be along soon. If anyone can figure it out it's him. Baggerboy is another one that might be able to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Would I still be able to see the plate moving in and out when I pull the clutch lever if something was screwed up in the ball and ramp assembly?
 

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Kicking Rocks...
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11,139 Posts
1. Stand motorcycle upright and level.
2. Remove five screws to free clutch inspection cover from
primary chaincase cover.
3. Remove seal ring from clutch inspection cover and discard.
4. Add freeplay to cable.
a. Slide rubber boot off cable adjuster.
b. Holding cable adjuster with 1/2 in. wrench, loosen
jam nut using a 9/16 in. wrench. Back jam nut away
from cable adjuster.
c. Move adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large
amount of free play at hand lever.
5. Loosen jam nut on clutch adjuster screw.
To take up all free play, turn screw inward (clockwise) until
lightly seated.
6. Back out adjuster screw 1/2 to 1 full turn. While holding
adjuster screw with an allen wrench, tighten jam nut to 72-
120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm), while holding adjusting screw
with an Allen wrench.
7. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set
ball and ramp release mechanism.
8. Check freeplay.
a. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is
eliminated at hand lever.
b. Pull clutch cable ferrule away from
clutch lever bracket to check free play. Turn cable
adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2
mm) free play between end of cable ferrule and clutch
lever bracket.
9. Hold adjuster with 1/2 in. wrench. Using 9/16 in. wrench,
tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover cable
adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.


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Discussion Starter #8
SUCCESS!
Apparently me reading "turn adjuster screw until it bottoms out" was processed as "turn adjuster screw until it gets real tight".
I tried it again and stopped turning as soon as I felt the beginnings of resistance, then backed off 1/2 turn. Adjusted cable, fired her up and clunked into first and pulled forwards. Don't have time to take it for a spin tonight but will first thing tomorrow. Whew.
I guess I just had it too tight and the clutch couldn't engage or disengage properly?
 

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Mississippi Cajun
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24,517 Posts
You certainly aren't the first to have problem on his first attempt at this, but now you know the trick, it'll never be a problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys,
Really glad I didn't have to loosen the exhaust and drain the (new) transmission fluid again to mess with the ball and ramp assembly.
 

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Hard Member
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Happy for you! Let us know how it went tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did some 1st and 2nd gear cruising around in the driveway today. My air cleaner is currently off as I wait for a gasket to arrive and I don't want to take it out on the road without one on (is that smart or does it really matter?) but the clutch feels good. It catches a little farther out than it did prior to me monkeying with it, but I think I like it this way and REALLY don't feel like opening up that primary cover again.
But, for future reference, can someone tell me the effect of the "back off" on the adjust screw has in relation to where the lever catches? I'm thinking the more the back off, the further out the lever catches?
Anyhow, thanks again to everyone who chimed in on this. Knowing there are knowledgeable people with answers a few clicks away gives me a lot more confidence to tackle projects I would have shied away from in the past and saved me a lot of $ on this handlebar/cable project. I'll put some pics up in the Dyna section once everything is all back together and shined up a little.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Curmudgeon
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Did some 1st and 2nd gear cruising around in the driveway today. My air cleaner is currently off as I wait for a gasket to arrive and I don't want to take it out on the road without one on (is that smart or does it really matter?) but the clutch feels good. It catches a little farther out than it did prior to me monkeying with it, but I think I like it this way and REALLY don't feel like opening up that primary cover again.
But, for future reference, can someone tell me the effect of the "back off" on the adjust screw has in relation to where the lever catches? I'm thinking the more the back off, the further out the lever catches?
Anyhow, thanks again to everyone who chimed in on this. Knowing there are knowledgeable people with answers a few clicks away gives me a lot more confidence to tackle projects I would have shied away from in the past and saved me a lot of $ on this handlebar/cable project. I'll put some pics up in the Dyna section once everything is all back together and shined up a little.
I don't think you need to open the primary to adjust the clutch again. It sounds to me like you can use the clutch cable adjustment under the rubber boot in the middle of the clutch cable to fine tune where the clutch starts engaging?? From your post it sounds like it was starting to engage closer to the grip before you changed the bars??? Might be all wrong and there are some really smart guys on here that will set me straight if needed.. :)
 

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Did some 1st and 2nd gear cruising around in the driveway today. My air cleaner is currently off as I wait for a gasket to arrive and I don't want to take it out on the road without one on (is that smart or does it really matter?) but the clutch feels good. It catches a little farther out than it did prior to me monkeying with it, but I think I like it this way and REALLY don't feel like opening up that primary cover again.
But, for future reference, can someone tell me the effect of the "back off" on the adjust screw has in relation to where the lever catches? I'm thinking the more the back off, the further out the lever catches?
Anyhow, thanks again to everyone who chimed in on this. Knowing there are knowledgeable people with answers a few clicks away gives me a lot more confidence to tackle projects I would have shied away from in the past and saved me a lot of $ on this handlebar/cable project. I'll put some pics up in the Dyna section once everything is all back together and shined up a little.
If you adjust the screw too much on the tight side, you run the risk of burning up the clutch throwout bearing.

Too much slack on the adjustment screw and you will have incomplete disengagement of the clutch and risk wearing out the clutch.

Tighter on the adjustment screw = clutch disengages sooner on the lever pull.

Loosed on the adjustment screw = clutch disengages closer to the hand grip on the lever pull....

Provided the cable is adjusted with the correct slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Kainam, that makes sense. It disengages now at about mid pull, which seems fine. Before it was closer to the lever so that's what I've been used to. I'll leave it like this for a while and if I can't get used to it maybe adjust it a little closer to the lever.
 

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That sounds like where it should disengage at. :nod
 
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