Clutch Problem?

16967 Views 44 Replies 8 Participants Last post by dora, Dec 14, 2021

XL1200R

Discussion Starter · Aug 2, 2014

Hey guys,

The old Roadster isn't running so well. I have adjusted and readjusted the clutch cable and clutch basket adjustment and no matter what I do the clutch will not fully disengage. When you start to accelerate the clutch immediately grabs off the bars too, it has now gotten to a point that the bike isn't rideable.

The primary oil level looks good, not too low or high.
Clutch "should" be adjusted correctly,,,per the service manual. Though the symptoms are such that of a maladjusted clutch for sure.

I am baffled at this point because I have adjusted the clutch many times before with nary an issue, and now it seems that I can't get it adjusted right at all, making me think there is a bigger issue.

I can't see any other problem (other than old/low fluid) that would cause the clutch not to disengage other than maladjustment??? Am I right?

I'm stumped...

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Dave63

· #2 · Aug 2, 2014

If the clutch grabs off the bars, and you have the proper end play in the cable, than the basket ISN't adjusted correctly, or something is wrong with the ball/ramp assembly in the side cover.

The ball/ramp isn't throwing the actuator far enough to get the clutch to disengage.

Make sure there's not a ball missing (3) and in the primary case.

Adjust clutch to tension, then only a 1/2 turn out.

ciscokid

· #3 · Aug 2, 2014

or the clutch is just gone south.

XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #4 · Aug 2, 2014

ciscokid said:
or the clutch is just gone south.

I'm afraid you're right... I've been playing with the adjustment for well over an hour and it isn't helping.

Warped plates maybe?

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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #5 · Aug 2, 2014

Dave63 said:
If the clutch grabs off the bars, and you have the proper end play in the cable, than the basket ISN't adjusted correctly, or something is wrong with the ball/ramp assembly in the side cover.

The ball/ramp isn't throwing the actuator far enough to get the clutch to disengage.

Make sure there's not a ball missing (3) and in the primary case.

Adjust clutch to tension, then only a 1/2 turn out.

I'm gonna check count now...

(don't... Don't say it) heheh

Edit: all the balls are in place.. There is some up/down/side and in and out play when moving the adjustment screw with the ball and ramp off... Is that Normal? The bearing looks good..

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Dave63

· #6 · Aug 2, 2014

ciscokid said:
or the clutch is just gone south.

No.....if clutch was south, it would slip. Warped plates would be a possibility but other problems arise too.

You know sporty adjusters are opposite BT bikes, right?

BT you turn adjuster IN until you feel drag, then back off a 1/2 to full turn.

XL models, you turn the screw OUT till it seats, then in a 1/4 turn.

Other things that prevent disengagement:

Fluid level too high

Chain too tight. Usually just makes neutral hard to find.

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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 2, 2014

Dave63 said:
No.....if clutch was south, it would slip. Warped plates would be a possibility but other problems arise too.

You know sporty adjusters are opposite BT bikes, right?

BT you turn adjuster IN until you feel drag, then back off a 1/2 to full turn.

XL models, you turn the screw OUT till it seats, then in a 1/4 turn.

Other things that prevent disengagement:

Fluid level too high

Chain too tight. Usually just makes neutral hard to find.

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Fluid level is good... It's been in there for 4380 miles without issue.

Chain should be good though it hasn't been checked since the 25k mile service... Could be worth a look.

So here's what I did as an extra test.

I adjusted the clutch basket to spec.

Then I took the clutch cable and manually (off the lever) pulled it until the ball and ramp assembly was as far as it could go (until it ran into the primary case)

This would then pull the clutch as far out (plates apart) as possible.

It still dragged at that point..

So I then tried adjusting the clutch basket to both extremes. Too loose on the adjuster and too tight... Again, no dice.

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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #8 · Aug 3, 2014

Adjusted the primary chain to spec... Then kept it a bit looser for the hell of it... No dice.

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Dave63

· #9 · Aug 3, 2014

Pull primary cover and your clutch plates. There's a center plate that has rivets in it. If the break.....this can happen. Check all steels for warpage.

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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #10 · Aug 3, 2014

Dave63 said:
Pull primary cover and your clutch plates. There's a center plate that has rivets in it. If the break.....this can happen. Check all steels for warpage.

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This is exactly what I found from research. Thanks for the conformation on that Dave. Apparently it is a family common problem from what I've read.

What do you recommend as far as replacement clutch plates go... Assuming my clutch basket isn't shot

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Dave63

· #11 · Aug 3, 2014

XL1200R said:
This is exactly what I found from research. Thanks for the conformation on that Dave. Apparently it is a family common problem from what I've read.

What do you recommend as far as replacement clutch plates go... Assuming my clutch basket isn't shot

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Clutch: Barnett or Force Energy or really.......OEM.

You'll still need that separator if doofed.

Alto Spring Separator Plate | 630-612 | J&P Cycles

I do recommend spending $15 and getting the Screamin Eagle clutch diaphram spring for more clamping pressure.

Replace steel plates if blue'd or warped. A glass top coffee table works great for checking them,. as does a framed picture.

If you replace the clutch plates (fibers) soak in XYZ primary oil before installing for at least an hour.

I used our wedding picture to do that once. Wife was pissed. So sensative.......

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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #12 · Aug 3, 2014

Dave63 said:
Clutch: Barnett or Force Energy or really.......OEM.

You'll still need that separator if doofed.

Alto Spring Separator Plate | 630-612 | J&P Cycles

I do recommend spending $15 and getting the Screamin Eagle clutch diaphram spring for more clamping pressure.

Replace steel plates if blue'd or warped. A glass top coffee table works great for checking them,. as does a framed picture.

If you replace the clutch plates (fibers) soak in XYZ primary oil before installing for at least an hour.

I used our wedding picture to do that once. Wife was pissed. So sensative.......

Don't some clutch kits replace the separator with more plates... In trade off of a harder clutch pull?

I'm just a bit nervous as if my stock clutch only lasted 30k miles with perfect maintenance and not beating on it... That's unacceptable in my book I want to make it as tough as possible...

Thanks Btw Dave
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misinlink

· #13 · Aug 3, 2014

You bought your bike new? If not who knows what the PO did or how she was treated.

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baggerboy

· #14 · Aug 3, 2014

If my memory serves me correct, yes if you get one of Barnett's extra plate kits, you eliminate that separator plate.

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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #15 · Aug 3, 2014

2

Bicycle part Bicycle drivetrain part Crankset Gear Auto part

Spring plate is effed...

Now let's see if my clutch basket survived the carnage.

Edit: The clutch basket is in good shape, but there is light scoring in it from the spring plate...question

Can I use the clutch basket if it is a little bit scored. I will take pictures in a second, but I would say the scoring is no more than an 1/16" and MUCH closer to 1/32"....that being said I don't want trouble down the road so if I must replace it I will.
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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #16 · Aug 3, 2014

misinlink said:
You bought your bike new? If not who knows what the PO did or how she was treated.

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I should have clarified since 8300 miles... And I had proof of maintenance at a Harley dealer up to that point as well.. That being said the previous owner could have been a bad rider... That being said looks like it's my spring plate so I don't think it was anyone's fault other than a shitty design.

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Rick7938

· #17 · Aug 3, 2014

I just replaced the clutch on my 2006 Roadster at 38,000 miles. It became difficult to downshift and difficult to find neutral with the motor running. The problem was, in fact, a broken spring plate. I replaced mine with the Barnett. It works great now. Best of luck.

XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #18 · Aug 3, 2014

Auto part Metal

Auto part Metal

Basket

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XL1200R

Discussion Starter · #19 · Aug 3, 2014

Rick7938 said:
I just replaced the clutch on my 2006 Roadster at 38,000 miles. It became difficult to downshift and difficult to find neutral with the motor running. The problem was, in fact, a broken spring plate. I replaced mine with the Barnett. It works great now. Best of luck.

Barnett spring plate or whole clutch assembly that eliminates the spring plate?

Dave63

· #20 · Aug 3, 2014

You can try clean that basket up. Those are some hefty grooves but not beyond 50% into tabs. I've senlen worse that worked fine. That's from the separator banging around. You're good.

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