Cold Blooded

dragonwolf · Jan 23, 2007

Hi! Let me introduce myself and ask a general question. My name is Sid, I am currently in Japan near Tokyo. Been riding the better part of 15 years year round rider. Bought my first new HD Sportster 1200C. Loving it. I put in the SC ignition and was impressed. Put in a jetkit last week and well, after some adjustment issues I am still a bit puzzled. On takeoff throttle roll i get just past 1/8 and it bogs, spits, chokes and will not go. So the last 3 days I been fooling with the adjustment and think I have the perfect mix (Thanks to FireDawg) but when it is the LEAST bit cold (not hot to the touch) the same thing happens on accel. Is this common? This evening went out and warmed it up and adjusted the idle a bit and got it good and hot, and no problems that I can tell. Is this bike just THAT cold-blooded (temps been getting mid 30s)?
Thanks and looking forward to a long relationship with this bike.

FireDawgStew · Jan 23, 2007

Welcome Sid!

Glad to found the Forum - I guess sending you the link helped out

Harleys are notoriously cold blooded, let 'er warm up tomorrow and see what you get.

dragonwolf · Jan 23, 2007

Yeah found it! If it is as simple as me being inpatient then it will make sense. Cause right now at this point.....I am at a loss. Has it gotten THAT cold out? I must be acclimating(sp) too easy. Sheesh 4 months out of Florida ya think i would feel colder.

CUPCAKE · Jan 23, 2007

Welcome to the Forum :dance

phreak · Jan 24, 2007

Hi Sid, welcome.

i had an 04 Sporty, carbed, and i round it year round here in New Mexico. when the temps were down in the 20s and 30s, it did need to be warmed up before it ran well also.

i'm gunna say it's just the nature of the beast.

dragonwolf · Jan 24, 2007

Well I am gonna try it one more time today to tune this thing. It is not a warm up issue. Something isn't right. At 1/8th throttle, it wants to die when a load is applied. At cruise as well. Gonna pull the plugs, clean em, check the gap and readjust the carb.........

phreak · Jan 24, 2007

try running it at 1/2 choke phor the phirst 2 or 3 miles, then no choke. see if that makes a difference.

dragonwolf · Jan 24, 2007

I printed the instructions and went through it this evening step by step. It SEEMS to be fine atm, but I will know better in the morning (or if i jump out there now and run it.

Question for the forum. Should I replace the stock slow jet?

dragonwolf · Jan 24, 2007

phreak said:
try running it at 1/2 choke phor the phirst 2 or 3 miles, then no choke. see if that makes a difference.

Ok 1/2 choke improved the stutter but it was still there. Full choke there was no problems except the fast idle.

Gonna have to tear it down again, but I MAY have the needle collar in upsidedown....looing at pics now

FireDawgStew · Jan 24, 2007

dragonwolf said:
I printed the instructions and went through it this evening step by step. It SEEMS to be fine atm, but I will know better in the morning (or if i jump out there now and run it.

Question for the forum. Should I replace the stock slow jet?

The stock slow jet will probably need to be replaced when / if you change your intake and exhaust to higher flows.

dragonwolf said:
Ok 1/2 choke improved the stutter but it was still there. Full choke there was no problems except the fast idle.

Gonna have to tear it down again, but I MAY have the needle collar in upsidedown....looing at pics now

I was wondering about that collar today...something sure is fickle if you are still having problems.

How long are you allowing for warm-up?

How'd the plugs look?

dragonwolf · Jan 24, 2007

FireDawgStew said:
The stock slow jet will probably need to be replaced when / if you change your intake and exhaust to higher flows.

I was wondering about that collar today...something sure is fickle if you are still having problems.

How long are you allowing for warm-up?

How'd the plugs look?

I pulled the plugs (the originals were back in) they were looking lean (whitish) and cleaned them, checked the gap (good) put them back in. Warm up is having zero effect. It was running from the time i left work 4:30pm (got stuck at the overrun) till 5:10pm when I got home and still sputtering at me. Saturday I am going to tear it down again and run to cainz, get the allen head bolts for the float bowl and reinspect everything.

FireDawgStew · Jan 24, 2007

dragonwolf said:
I pulled the plugs (the originals were back in) they were looking lean (whitish) and cleaned them, checked the gap (good) put them back in. Warm up is having zero effect. It was running from the time i left work 4:30pm (got stuck at the overrun) till 5:10pm when I got home and still sputtering at me. Saturday I am going to tear it down again and run to cainz, get the allen head bolts for the float bowl and reinspect everything.

I'll be working Saturday, I can give you a hand on Sunday if needed. I'll PM you my work number

CUPCAKE · Jan 24, 2007

dragonwolf said:
Question for the forum. Should I replace the stock slow jet?

When we put the SE II's on my Sporty, along with the SE Air Filter, we did change out the Stock slow jet....

dragonwolf · Jan 24, 2007

abryson said:
When we put the SE II's on my Sporty, along with the SE Air Filter, we did change out the Stock slow jet....

I would too, but the airfilter and pipes are still stock. The only other aftermarket I have is the SE ignition.

phreak · Jan 25, 2007

dragonwolf said:
I would too, but the airfilter and pipes are still stock. The only other aftermarket I have is the SE ignition.

hmmmmm? was it still running bad without the SE ignition and new needle?

maybe you need to get the stage 1 AC, and some slip on mufflers to correct the condition. :dunno:

dragonwolf · Jan 25, 2007

phreak said:
hmmmmm? was it still running bad without the SE ignition and new needle?

maybe you need to get the stage 1 AC, and some slip on mufflers to correct the condition. :dunno:

I like the idea

But there was a point i put back in the stock jet. Its frustrating, but Saturday I am going to get hex replacement screws for the float bowl, and tear it back down and look at the collar and the floats. I am been reading and studying all the info i have found and narrowed it down to those to items.

phreak · Jan 26, 2007

dragonwolf said:
I like the idea But there was a point i put back in the stock jet. Its frustrating, but Saturday I am going to get hex replacement screws for the float bowl, and tear it back down and look at the collar and the floats. I am been reading and studying all the info i have found and narrowed it down to those to items.

cool. keep us posted.

OldMick · Jan 26, 2007

Welcome, DragonWolf,

Here's another tidbit that you might find interesting, if you haven't done it already:

Step 2: MODIFY THE IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT:

The aluminum plug covering the idle mixture adjusting screw needs to be removed. Turn the carburetor over and locate the plug toward the rear of the carburetor, in back of the float bowl. Using about a 1/16" drill bit, carefully drill a hole through the small plug (CV Carburetor Cutaway item #9). If the plug does not fall out while drilling, remove the drill bit. Carefully insert a small self-tapping sheet metal screw into the plug. This will allow enough grip to remove the plug by pulling on the self-tapping screw with a pair of pliers.
Underneath you will find a slotted screw. Turn this screw clockwise until it is GENTLY seated. Over tightening this screw can damage the carburetor and needle. Back the idle mixture screw 2 1/2 full turns. This provides a starting point for tuning.

You can more information on nightrider.com. Old stuff, but here's the whole article:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

msscull · Jan 27, 2007

Welcome to the forum. :dance

dragonwolf · Feb 4, 2007

OldMick said:
Welcome, DragonWolf,

Here's another tidbit that you might find interesting, if you haven't done it already:

Step 2: MODIFY THE IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT:

The aluminum plug covering the idle mixture adjusting screw needs to be removed. Turn the carburetor over and locate the plug toward the rear of the carburetor, in back of the float bowl. Using about a 1/16" drill bit, carefully drill a hole through the small plug (CV Carburetor Cutaway item #9). If the plug does not fall out while drilling, remove the drill bit. Carefully insert a small self-tapping sheet metal screw into the plug. This will allow enough grip to remove the plug by pulling on the self-tapping screw with a pair of pliers.
Underneath you will find a slotted screw. Turn this screw clockwise until it is GENTLY seated. Over tightening this screw can damage the carburetor and needle. Back the idle mixture screw 2 1/2 full turns. This provides a starting point for tuning.

You can more information on nightrider.com. Old stuff, but here's the whole article:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

Yeah I gave up and took it to the dealer. They are masters. They replaced the needle collar and the needle. Tuned to a purrrfection better then before the problem.

Cold Blooded

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