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cruise control quit working

12828 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  sutton.noworries.adam
Hi all, been awhile since my last posting or two cents worth for others.:biker: Anyway heres my problem, sold my 04 fatboy and bought a 06 ultra classic CVO about 2months ago. Bike is a low miler(9500) when I bought it so not much wear on it. Cruise was working great for about 1500 miles then quit engaging a couple days ago. Red light is lit on the tack and does not turn green showing engagement. throttle roll back is working properly, brake switches are also working ok. Checked the pins going into the control box to see if the switch was at fault, but I have continuity when I push the switch to set and resume.:feedback:
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Try the switch diagnostics incorporated in the radio. Hold two radio buttons in while turning the ignition on then toggle to diagnostics. Press the handlebar switches one at a time to verify functionality.
Schmidtys, I tied that but the only switches that it diagnoses are the audio ones. Am I doing something wrong, or is an 06 to old a model to have that feature?
I had a similar problem on my old '04. Turned out to be a pinched wire in the right side handlebar.
My guess would be that neither the right or left handle bar switches have ever been messed with, could it be pinched from the factory?
Mine died, turned out to be the throttle position sensor. Located toward the neck of the bike on the throttle cable. Disconnected it, problem gone.
Gotgold, I believe you are referring to the throttle roll back switch. I already checked and it is working fine.
Gotgold, I believe you are referring to the throttle roll back switch. I already checked and it is working fine.
Throttle roll off.. sorry I can't ever remember the exact part name.
I just replaced the cruise control switch in the switch block.

To diagnose I used the instructions below

1. bike off, run/stop to run
2. push set/resume to set and hold.
3 with cruise on/off switch to on, turn on bike
4. cruise indicator light should be green, release set switch, light should turn red.
5. push to resume and release, light should turn green then red
6. push throttle closed and release, light should turn green then red
7. push rear brake pedal and release, light should turn green then red
8. pull front brake lever, light should turn green then red
9. on models with a clutch/neutral starter lockout, pull clutch lever, light should turn green then red whichever switch does not turn the light green, is your bad one.

if light will not turn green at all and you have followed ALL directions and tried multiple times, your set/resume switch is bad.

If light stays green even after releasing set switch, one of the dropout switches is stuck closed, usually the roll off throttle switch. unplug this and try again.

From the tests I was able to isolate the problem and replace the appropriate switch.

Regards Wayne
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400web, when I follow these instructions here is what happens. 1- when I release set switch it stays green. 2- when I push resume it turns red and stays red after releasing. 3- when I push throttle closed turns red and stays red after releasing, I have also tried unplugging it. 4- both front and rear brakes turn red and stays red after releasing.
Are your brake lights working? Or are they ON all the time?
Hi Fatcat

It sounds the same as what mine was doing, I ran the diagnosis a while ago and took a long time to get around to fixing the problem.

I got the instructions from off the net and decided that it was the set/resume switch, which has turned out to be the case. Also read that these switches are prone to getting water in them.

The switch wasn't cheap and bit of mucking around to fit it. Wiring on the new switch was different colours and fits into a 12 point plug, so we cut and soldered into the old wiring.

Fortunately it works alright now.

If you are not sure probably best to talk to a dealer.

I thought the risk of the $cost of the switch and fixing myself compared to paying a dealer to diagnose and repair was worth it.

Regards Wayne
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Da made a good point. Might be a brake light switch, if it has one.
Da Mack & Madmack, thanks for the input but if you look at my first post you'll see I already checked that.
I would check the connector inside the fairing and the related wiring. The wires might have rubbed through on the inner support bracket, seen that happen enough times.
400web, I was all set to buy the switch thinking that would be the problem. But at the last minute I decided to check it for continuity. Traced the wires to the pin going into the CCM and both the set button and the resume button show continuity when pushed, I would assume that means it is working, or is there some other way I should be checking it?
Schmidtys, that sounds like a good next step. Think I tried everything I could without taking apart anything. Trying to eliminate everything possible before looking at it being the CCM gone bad.
Hi Fatcat

As I said mine appeared to be the switch from the testing that I did and that proved to be correct, so i didn't do any further testing.

Can't offer any other advice.

Regards Wayne
Schmidtys, Had the fairing off for about 4 hours checking all the connections and all rub points and did not see anything.

400web/Wayne, I think it is time to go with your advice. I was assuming the set/resume switch is like three way toggle switch with off being the middle position. Now I am hoping I am wrong and there is more to that switch then I thought. $60 for that little sucker. Still a hole lot cheaper then the CCM. Thanks for the advice. Soon as I get it in (might not get it till monday) I'll post the Good or bad news.
I hate electrical/electronics problems. I feel for ya but at the same time, keep us informed as to what you discover.

Good luck
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