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2015 Electra Glide Limited with @6000 miles. I'm having the same issues getting into neutral, plus I don't like the hard clunking noise going into first gear. I have no problems with my 2004 HD low rider, that baby shifts very smooth but this E glide clunks,grinds and like I stated , a bitch to get into neutral. I use synthetic oil, even tried a heavier weight in the tranny, like some post recommend, did nothing. My friend has the same issues with a 2020 Tri glide! I haven't tried to adjust the clutch or cable yet, that's my next move.
If I were you, I'd adjust the clutch very carefully, make sure the oil level in primary is correct,( a little over full will make the clutch drag)
 

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2015 Electra Glide Limited with @6000 miles. I'm having the same issues getting into neutral, plus I don't like the hard clunking noise going into first gear. I have no problems with my 2004 HD low rider, that baby shifts very smooth but this E glide clunks,grinds and like I stated , a bitch to get into neutral. I use synthetic oil, even tried a heavier weight in the tranny, like some post recommend, did nothing. My friend has the same issues with a 2020 Tri glide! I haven't tried to adjust the clutch or cable yet, that's my next move.
Your 2015 E.G.has a clutch cable? Hmm, my 14 is Hydraulic. Anyway.. On mine, I found that if the primary fluid is even a scratch high on fluid, Neutral becomes difficult to find. I pulled the derby cover and used a syringe to remove enough syn3 to the "proper level" indicated in the manual. That helped a GREAT DEAL. Also the shift link that runs from the forward control to the vertical link behind the primary: The manual says to lubricate it with G.P. grease. NO, Just remove it, clean and spray the ball socket ends with Gun spray containing Teflon or a DRY lube spray.(This prevents grime from sticking to the socket and ball). Pulling that link, cleaning, lubing and re-install takes all of 5 minutes. While your in the area, Make CERTAIN that the link from the trans to the ball of the sifting link is tight. That socket screw on the lower end (between the primary and the engine case) If that is loose, or if the socket wears, Ya gotta pull the entire primary inner off to fix it. Keep that screw secured!

Happy Shifting and easy Neutral..
 

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What do you need N for anyway when stopped just leave it in 1st.
Is this a typical answer one would expect to find on this forum? He needs neutral cause he wants neutral its supposed to work and should. My softail fxsts is very hard to get into neutral as well and it is a 5 speed. Been thru all the cable adjusts new fluid etc-etc so I understand the frustration. They just don't make em like they used to now the only thing they are is assembled in America.
 

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Is this a typical answer one would expect to find on this forum? He needs neutral cause he wants neutral its supposed to work and should. My softail fxsts is very hard to get into neutral as well and it is a 5 speed. Been thru all the cable adjusts new fluid etc-etc so I understand the frustration. They just don't make em like they used to now the only thing they are is assembled in America.
Did you read all the posts and find this one typical,go introduce yourself in new members section maybe we can take a newbie seriously if we know more about you
 

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FYI, for the 5spd trans there is an adjustment specific to the neutral gear. The procedure is in the drivetrain section of the factory service manual. There are two special wrenches required to make the neutral adjustment. The centering pin adjuster is located next to the shift shaft on the left side of the trans behind the inner primary cover, hence the need for special wrenches.
 

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On a bike with a clutch cable: make sure clutch and cable are adjusted properly, do not overfill primary, and don`t expect miracles...

Five speed transmissions had an adjustable shift pawl centering pin, but this was eliminated when the new roller detent shift drum came along (model year 2000 for Softails, 2001 for the other big twin models).

On a bike with hydraulic clutch: don`t over fill primary, and don`t expect miracles.:)
 

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Same issue on an 09 Street Glide, had the primary filled with too much fluid after installing a new derby cover and the bike was on a jack when refilling instead of leaning over on the jiffy stand. Drained and replaced with correct amount of fluid and seems a lot better than before.
 

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On a bike with a clutch cable: make sure clutch and cable are adjusted properly, do not overfill primary, and don`t expect miracles...

Five speed transmissions had an adjustable shift pawl centering pin, but this was eliminated when the new
roller On a bike with hydraulic clutch: don`t over fill primary, and don`t expect miracles.
[/QUOTE
detent shift drum came along (model year 2000 for Softails, 2001 for the other big twin models).

On a bike with hydraulic clutch: don`t over fill primary, and don`t expect miracles.:)
That's odd, I adjusted the neutral centering pin on a '04 FLHT Std. this past October !
 

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That's odd, I adjusted the neutral centering pin on a '04 FLHT Std. this past October !
If you did, then someone installed a part from an older model, you don`t have to trust me on this, just look at your parts manual...

The roller detent on the new configuration shift drum centers the drum, the adjustable pin is unnecessary.

There is still a pin there, but it is not eccentric, it is straight (it looks the same on the outside of the case).

Roller detent on drum:
780604
 

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You're correct, my bad. I had to replace the shift shaft return spring on that '04 FLHT. That's a lotta taking apart and back together for the $3 buck spring !
I hadda check my records. I did the return spring neutral adjustment on a '96 FLT among other service work.
 
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