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ok shows some codes now that i can get it started with throttle cracked. after starting the throttle response is normal but way too much fuel. codes are p1511 efi power management mode, p1514 air flow fault, p2101 efi motor circuit range performance(actavation error), p2105 ifi forced engine shutdown that must be historical cause it's running. i still havn't got a clue.
Well before this point I would be in the HD SHOP having to get them to sort it out way way over my head this is
 

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Mr. James
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don't know how to test it but when it is running throttle response is normal just efi is deliverying too much fuel to cylinders.
Fuel delivery is dependent on the TPS, as well as some other sensors. If it is like ones on a car all you need is an VOM (volt, ohm meter). One of the 3 plugs is the constant and the other two vary the resistance as the throttle is moved. You should have almost zero ohms at one of them, and it goes up SMOOTHLY as you move the throttle. Then test the other one for the same thing, but it be going up in resistance, the opposite of the first one. Of course unplug the sensor before doing this test. Then test it plugged in, but this time you are going to be measuring voltage. The one part that had the 'zero' reading will have the highest voltage starting out and drops as you move the throttle. It runs on a 5 volt system. Again, if it is like a car. I have, obviously, never done one on a bike, just cars. Whatever the voltage is, it will change as you move the throttle. The key part here is that the voltage changes SMOOTHLY!! If you are getting erratic readings then the TPS is bad. 9/10 times that is what happens with them when they go bad. The voltage will change too much and dump fuel into the engine that it cannot burn. I hope I described that procedure well. The service manual would do it better. BTW, all of this is done WITHOUT the engine running. When you test for the voltage readings you turn the ignition on, but again do not start it. Good luck, sir!
 

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Mr. James
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Gotta be that fuel pack. That would be nice, so far as finding the issue goes. Not so nice if you have to buy a new one since they ain't cheap.
And check the TPS like I described in the other thread.
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Fuel delivery is dependent on the TPS, as well as some other sensors. If it is like ones on a car all you need is an VOM (volt, ohm meter). One of the 3 plugs is the constant and the other two vary the resistance as the throttle is moved. You should have almost zero ohms at one of them, and it goes up SMOOTHLY as you move the throttle. Then test the other one for the same thing, but it be going up in resistance, the opposite of the first one. Of course unplug the sensor before doing this test. Then test it plugged in, but this time you are going to be measuring voltage. The one part that had the 'zero' reading will have the highest voltage starting out and drops as you move the throttle. It runs on a 5 volt system. Again, if it is like a car. I have, obviously, never done one on a bike, just cars. Whatever the voltage is, it will change as you move the throttle. The key part here is that the voltage changes SMOOTHLY!! If you are getting erratic readings then the TPS is bad. 9/10 times that is what happens with them when they go bad. The voltage will change too much and dump fuel into the engine that it cannot burn. I hope I described that procedure well. The service manual would do it better. BTW, all of this is done WITHOUT the engine running. When you test for the voltage readings you turn the ignition on, but again do not start it. Good luck, sir!
Fuel delivery is dependent on the TPS, as well as some other sensors. If it is like ones on a car all you need is an VOM (volt, ohm meter). One of the 3 plugs is the constant and the other two vary the resistance as the throttle is moved. You should have almost zero ohms at one of them, and it goes up SMOOTHLY as you move the throttle. Then test the other one for the same thing, but it be going up in resistance, the opposite of the first one. Of course unplug the sensor before doing this test. Then test it plugged in, but this time you are going to be measuring voltage. The one part that had the 'zero' reading will have the highest voltage starting out and drops as you move the throttle. It runs on a 5 volt system. Again, if it is like a car. I have, obviously, never done one on a bike, just cars. Whatever the voltage is, it will change as you move the throttle. The key part here is that the voltage changes SMOOTHLY!! If you are getting erratic readings then the TPS is bad. 9/10 times that is what happens with them when they go bad. The voltage will change too much and dump fuel into the engine that it cannot burn. I hope I described that procedure well. The service manual would do it better. BTW, all of this is done WITHOUT the engine running. When you test for the voltage readings you turn the ignition on, but again do not start it. Good luck, sir!
ok, i'll consult manual. i read your post and i kinda get it. if that would cause fuel to flood cylinders that may be it. man when it runs the raw fuel makes a wet fuel spot on the concrete, a large one, and the white smoke rolls out of tail pipe even after you shut it down. thanks rj.
 

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Sounds like a stuck injector to me. Staying open all the time causing fuel to flood the engine and raw fuel spitting out the exhaust.
 
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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
ok, i'll consult manual. i read your post and i kinda get it. if that would cause fuel to flood cylinders that may be it. man when it runs the raw fuel makes a wet fuel spot on the concrete, a large one, and the white smoke rolls out of tail pipe even after you shut it down. thanks rj.
i can find no mention of tps anywhere in manual. anyone know where the throttle position sensor is?
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Gotta be that fuel pack. That would be nice, so far as finding the issue goes. Not so nice if you have to buy a new one since they ain't cheap.
the tunner only makes minute changes to afr. how could its failing, if it is, make the injectors flood the cylinders with fuel. i can remove tunner and hook everything back to stock, it's a lot of work and it don't think it will have any effect on my problem.
 

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Noel
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what is acr?
Automatic Compression Release, a electrically controlled valve in the head to briefly dump compression for a cycle to get starting RPM up to speed, they close soon to give you full compression for next ignition cycle. Unlikely to be your problem, as I read all your follow up posts.

Might very well be the FUELPAK, these aftermarket devices can be prone to failure. I'd pull it out of the bike to see if its absence improves basic operation, if your engine modifications warrant fuel enhancement, why hot use a SEPST to custom tune your bikes needs, it can also data log your engine while riding and with a computer you could build a custom map for subsequent up loads


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Noel
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Tommy, did I read in another thread that you are using Vance & Hines FUELPAK?

It might have STB, suggest removing it from your bike and retest.

Regarding the TPS suggestion, I think M8's are throttle by wire, so the throttle body operates a lot differently with a servo and sensors to set the appropriate throttle position with respect to what you command with the WIRED throttle on the handlebar.


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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Automatic Compression Release, a electrically controlled valve in the head to briefly dump compression for a cycle to get starting RPM up to speed, they close soon to give you full compression for next ignition cycle. Unlikely to be your problem, as I read all your follow up posts.

Might very well be the FUELPAK, these aftermarket devices can be prone to failure. I'd pull it out of the bike to see if its absence improves basic operation, if your engine modifications warrant fuel enhancement, why hot use a SEPST to custom tune your bikes needs, it can also data log your engine while riding and with a computer you could build a custom map for subsequent up loads


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thanks noel i appreciate the input. will unhook tuner today and try that.
 

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Mr. James
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the tunner only makes minute changes to afr. how could its failing, if it is, make the injectors flood the cylinders with fuel. i can remove tunner and hook everything back to stock, it's a lot of work and it don't think it will have any effect on my problem.
I don't know which tuner you have, but the one I have can make large changes to the AFR. If you have a piggyback system then it can really cause an issue since it has the ability to keep the injector spraying constantly if it messes up. Kinda funny how it's too much work to try when I suggest taking it off, but another member said the same thing and now you are going to try that. I hope you get it figured out soon.
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
I don't know which tuner you have, but the one I have can make large changes to the AFR. If you have a piggyback system then it can really cause an issue since it has the ability to keep the injector spraying constantly if it messes up. Kinda funny how it's too much work to try when I suggest taking it off, but another member said the same thing and now you are going to try that. I hope you get it figured out soon.
brian knows his stuff. i just didn't want to go there yet until i checked a little further. yep a pain to "detune" just to see if that was the problem. you know the drill, you kinda know in your gut that what you don't want to do is going to be necessary. it was and that was it! it's a cobra tuner fi2000r. those are adjustable. i like them because you can dial em in to just short of kicking rich codes. i have the same tunner on the 14 ultra limited. this one ran only a year so i will have to do some shopping. this failure would have stopped me on the side of the road and i just got back from a 1900 mile ride through the rockies. i'm dissappointed in the limited service i got from the tunner but thankful the motorsickle gods got me home before it went belly up.:p
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
thanks, brian, schmidty, rj and noel. it was the tuner. you never saw so much fuel and white smoke coming out of and exhaust. the injectors had to be running wide open constantly. it actually made a puddle, pretty big one, of raw fuel on ground behind pipes. after removing tunner, on start up, which occured normally hands off throttle i thought it was fine. still a lot of white smoke and some raw fuel just what was left in exhaust system and ports made me wonder. now bike runs well despite being stage one without a tunner. thanks for the input guys y'all told me exactly what i did not want to hear, ha. hell i have the same tunner on the 14 limited. i could do a tunner removal on the side of the the road but i'd rather not. dear motorsickle gods forgive me for my tunner choices and thank you very much for getting flash home before it quit. brian would probably have just shot me if it would have broken down on the way home from colorado. he is on his third engine on his low rider and it is running crisp now. phew!
 

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1998 Harley Davidson FXDL low rider " Dynasor"
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All right! Was glad to read it as I know zero FI HD to help. Ask me about beamers volvo or Mercedes FI or CIS 😆 Can tell u computer problems from hell. Guys here know their S$!t! Tc tommy
 
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