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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone changed out their rear motor mount in a mid 90s Evo? I'm about to take a stab at replacing the mount on my 95 Dyna Conv and would sure appreciate any advice I can get. The factory service manual is just a tad skimpy on details on this subject.

I've finally managed to get the bike rideable with a new front mount and proper ignition timing but I still have a horrendous vibe between 1800 and 2100 rpm that I'm trying to tame so that it's manageable in city traffic. I'm not talking about a normal motor vibration, I'm talking about a violent shake that makes it almost uncontrollable at low speeds...but just at that rpm range, everywhere else it's good and smooth as butter at 2500...
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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I did my 1995 Dyna (both) although, the rear one was the worst, by far. The swingarm goes through your trans housing, and the mount supports them both.

The two tell-tale signs the mount is bad is the back of the starter is almost touching the down tube under the seat (which mine did with a passenger) but I could barely get a finger in between them, with nobody on the bike.

Second was my rear exhaust pipe almost hit the batter cover. The RPM ranges you noted are about what I had too. smooth before or after.

I used a floor jack, under my oil pan, with wood as a buffer. Lift the engine/trans up intil the pressure starts to come off the mount.

There's 2 allen bolts that come in from the rear, in front of the rear tire. I was able to get an air ratchet into get them, so a regular ratchet will work as well.

The 2 bolts that go in from the sides are obtainable with a swivel on the end of an extension, and a friend holding a wrench on the opposite side, from the bottom.

Once you get the nuts off, move the engine up or down to get the pressure off them and they'll pop right out.

Undo the allens in the rear. Mount drops out the bottom.

On installation, put all the bolts in loosely, however, screw in the rear allen bolts all the way, but don;t tighten them. Set the engine weight down on the mount. I tightened the two botls on the sides first, then the allens last. I also used blue Locktite on them as well.

Afterwards, ($105 per mount) enjoy a smoother ride with less vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Dave. Once again you've shared your expert knowledge with me and I appreciate it. Soon I'll have a good bike made better...
 

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My brother did his with Velva Ride aftermarket parts. The rubber pieces are a harder urethane than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My brother did his with Velva Ride aftermarket parts. The rubber pieces are a harder urethane than stock.
Man, I surfed the internet for hours and never found a Velva Ride replacement for the original rear mount, only stabilizers (which eventually will be a nice upgrade).
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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O-roadie......

After thinking about it: I believe I lifted my bike up on a Sears jack to make it level, THEN, used the floor jack in the rear to hold/level/tilt the motor.......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pretty much my plan, too. Up on the jack nice and level, then support the rear of the motor with a second lifting tool, most likely my floor jack. Then a nice and slow disassemble and re-assemble. Looks like it will be a somewhat gymnastic exercise to get to all of the bolts but I'm game.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Pretty much my plan, too. Up on the jack nice and level, then support the rear of the motor with a second lifting tool, most likely my floor jack. Then a nice and slow disassemble and re-assemble. Looks like it will be a somewhat gymnastic exercise to get to all of the bolts but I'm game.
Gymnastic? Nah.... but wear your reading glasses and use a flashlight to see and get onto those rear, side bolts. :D
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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I've had my bifocals 4 weeks now, and only fell down the steps once.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've had my bifocals 4 weeks now, and only fell down the steps once.
It gets better. I have found that turning them upside down really helps when you're doing close work that requires looking up; like laying on your back under the bike/car.

Hey, wait a minute, did I hijack my own thread?:eekers:lol8
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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It gets better. I have found that turning them upside down really helps when you're doing close work that requires looking up; like laying on your back under the bike/car.
Excellent............:thumb
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Road work keeps interfering with my shop schedule but yesterday I finally got the new mount installed. Not hard to do but not so quick with the tight access points, took me about twice as long as I had planned and a second set of hands would have been nice. As a bonus, I gained about 1/2" new clearance...now maybe the side stand won't dig in every time I deploy it.



As you can see the old mount had ripped away from the bracket and was beginning to collapse to one side. Once the weather clears a bit a test ride is in order...
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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I don;t even need my bifocals to see how bad that one is...!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So it runs a lot better now with the two new motor mounts installed but it's also still pretty grumbly between 1800 and 2K. Maybe that's just a function of the EV-27 cam and I'll get used to it. In any case, I have made a major improvement and forward progress is always good; added bonus is the ability to ride in just one lane at in town speeds :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's the stock Keihin CVK and, no, I haven't had it apart yet to size the jets. Still, the grumbly part is very apparent at throttle roll off as well so the carb seems like it may only be a minor contributor. And, as it's my first big twin it may just be the nature of the beast and I'm expecting too much.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Check out the "rejetting" sticky in the "Fuel" section. If you swapped your 42 pilot jet for a 45 and shimmed the needle with a .050" washer, you'd see a noticable difference in acceleration and less stumple.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm very familiar with this series of carbs as I have the smaller 36mm size Keihin on my Triumph and a thorough inspection of the Dyna carb is in order. All the same, it doesn't feel so much like stumbling as it feels like something is producing an unbalanced vibration between 1800 and 2200. Everywhere else the motor pulls like a train, very strong and reasonably smooth. I got the bike as a restorize project anyway so its all good.
 
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