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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The original issue, which I believe to be carb issue. As much s possible, I've become rather good at tearing down this Bendix carb. I surrender to the great S&S.

After going thru 200.00 of JUNK rebuild kits, I will never spend another penny in rebuild kits to find a half decent and complete one.

The "factory" Bendix was shirt the specially tipped needle for the float seal. Not in the 50.00 kit from Kirk. That kit also had a too strong spring for the accel pump and as a result the rod bent, which folded the crap leather seal out of shape and hence, fuel leaking past the crap boot they sent.

Kits from JP were Taiwan sourced and ALL OF THEM were crap. So, this carb is done. Taking great pleasure I'm hammering into shrapnel and mailing no it to Bendix. S&S wins.

Haven't had more than 300 miles on this machine which I believe to be cursed by my ex girlfriend. That things entry into my world took me down a rabbit hole that continues to this day.
 

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You will like the S&S, it is simple, reliable and easy to work on, but fuel mileage is not great.
There is a guy who sells a screw kit that makes the float bowl easy to remove and replace and the adjustments easy to reach. Dave's Machine Shop

Do you have dual throttle cables? Have you messed with O-ring intake seals before?



 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The newer model Super E's (since 2004) are even better as you can swap out a jet to adjust the air bleed.

Tune your carburetor with our Carb Tuning Guide[/QUOTE]

Thanks as usual for the guidance. I have this Pan running about as perfect as it can get, then accel pump "gasket" takes a fold over crap.

That pushed me to surrender and the Super E.

In my continuing self imposed issue with giving up on anything, I was sitting at the table last night and in front of me was my White Gas mountain stove. I'm sitting there looking at the pump unit on the 1 liter gas bottle.

I think to myself, wow, this is the same action as the accel pump design on the Bendix. So, like an idiot, I remove the pump piston from the fuel bottle.... now get this.

The piston is the exact same design as the piston on the accel pump (leather gasket), but the 30 year old gas pump piston is made of some type of rubber that the manual says soak in mineral oil whenever it looses it's fluid motion and ability to seal.

Visually, it appears to be the same size as the bore of the accel pump on the carb. Has a mounting hole in the center like the rebuild kit seal.

The Optimus pump has a shaft, but it's a little stouter than the Bendix shaft. My thought is to drill a hole in the shaft to take a tension spring and just use the Optimus pump device in the Bendix carb (way too much spare time, I know). The motion in the fuel tank is smooth and it has to build pressure to feed the mountain stove, and it has to hold that pressure.

Superior design, all I gotta do is make it work, long enough for the Super E to show up. Going to trial it anyway, i'll take pictures along the way and keep you all posted.

There may be a better solution than these crap rebuild kits, and it might be in the rebuild kit for the Optimus fuel bottle / stove setup.
 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the idea on those float bowl screws.

Do you have dual throttle cables? Have you messed with O-ring intake seals before? I don't have dual cables, but I will have them.

Copy and paste of a response on Kainan's posting.

In my continuing self imposed issue with giving up on anything, I was sitting at the table last night and in front of me was my White Gas mountain stove. I'm sitting there looking at the pump unit on the 1 liter gas bottle.

I think to myself, wow, this is the same action as the accel pump design on the Bendix. So, like an idiot, I remove the pump piston from the fuel bottle.... now get this.

The piston is the exact same design as the piston on the accel pump (leather gasket), but the 30 year old gas pump piston is made of some type of rubber that the manual says soak in mineral oil whenever it looses it's fluid motion and ability to seal.

Visually, it appears to be the same size as the bore of the accel pump on the carb. Has a mounting hole in the center like the rebuild kit seal.

The Optimus pump has a shaft, but it's a little stouter than the Bendix shaft. My thought is to drill a hole in the shaft to take a tension spring and just use the Optimus pump device in the Bendix carb (way too much spare time, I know). The motion in the fuel tank is smooth and it has to build pressure to feed the mountain stove, and it has to hold that pressure.

Superior design, all I gotta do is make it work, long enough for the Super E to show up. Going to trial it anyway, i'll take pictures along the way and keep you all posted.

There may be a better solution than these crap rebuild kits, and it might be in the rebuild kit for the Optimus fuel bottle / stove setup.
 

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Premium Member
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840 Posts
Can anyone tell me what type intake clamps these are? O-ring or Band? Is the pic too poor to tell please?
I can't tell by the pic and I would say that no pan came with rubber band intake seals, but realizing that you have STD heads, it is possible. I would bet they are O-rings. I believe your '48 would have originally had what are called "plumber's clamps", but that is obviously not what you have. What manifold did you get with the carb?

The reason I bring up the O-rings is that some people have trouble getting them to seal, but it really isn't hard. Just roll the rings up onto the manifold, hold it in place and roll the rings into the grooves. It helps to have an extra set of hands to help get the clamps in place without disturbing the manifold.
 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Willie, thank you, I have the original heads and the original intake, it was the plumber's T-type arrangement. I bought this bike from a Vet that had it for 40+ years. His daughter, that I work with, rode on it as a youngster. It came to me with the Bendix carb on it, and a Y-type (looking) manifold. I'll take a more detailed look later on. I talked with S&S rep and from the way it sounded by his description, the O-Ring rubber is visible, the band arrangement shows no rubber to the eye.

No leaks at the manifold right now, has never been an issue. The only way I could test that is to shoot some starter fluid at the seals while the engine was running. No change in the RPMs or the way the engine was idling.
 

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I talked with S&S rep and from the way it sounded by his description, the O-Ring rubber is visible, the band arrangement shows no rubber to the eye.
I think you've got that backwards. The bands are about 5/8" wide and go around the manifold and spigot on the head while the O-rings fit into a groove that is half in the manifold and half in the head. You will not see the O-rings when they are under the clamps.

Your manifold needs to match the heads and the carb. Here is a pic with a penny for perspective.

 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you sir, excellent explanation. O-rings would always be buried wouldn't they, that makes sense. I mis-remembered I'm sure. Thanks again.
 

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No leaks at the manifold right now, has never been an issue. The only way I could test that is to shoot some starter fluid at the seals while the engine was running. No change in the RPMs or the way the engine was idling.
Many guys will make a manifold leak tester out of a flat plate which bolts up in place of the carb, fitted with a schrader valve.
 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Morning fellas, pulled the Bendix carb last night, bottom mount bolt had some thread shavings in it. I apparently did a partial strip putting in the bottom bolt after tightening the top bolt. Soft carb metal... you get my drift.

I'm guessing it's no big deal to retap the carb body to the next larger size bolt. That is until my Super E gets here, so it's experiment time again.

Any recommendations on the next size up bolt to tap the carb body to? Considering the body is kind of soft, has anyone ever heli-coiled the body so that soft aluminum can be mated for steel to steel? Or is that a very bad idea?

Respectfully
 

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Premium Member
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Any recommendations on the next size up bolt to tap the carb body to? Considering the body is kind of soft, has anyone ever heli-coiled the body so that soft aluminum can be mated for steel to steel? Or is that a very bad idea?

Respectfully
Helicoil or Timesert, do it right. And fix that back tank mount before one of the front tabs breaks. They will break.
 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Roger that on the back tank mount, I'm using 2 bike inner tubes wrapped around the tail of the tank, works better than the bolt up system. It has some flex in it but looks like crap. Because I can get wordy, I bolt lettered the pertinent information and questions. Thanks for the assistance!!

1. Got another Zenith kit for the carb. This kit is also configured differently than the other kits I received and burned through. This kit was short a screw for mounting the accel pump to the carb body. Fortunately, the one in place is fine. As opposed to the other 2 zenith factory kits, this one actually had the tipped pin to seat the float fuel level. BUT, of course, the springs for the float bowl and the small hanger that hangs the pin off of the tab on the float is of a different design, (5 out of 6 kit so far have items that don't resemble each other).

2. Installing the new adjustable main jet. Decided to go this route as the fixed needle seemed to have this odd bend in it that rubbed the inside of the jet body itself. I read somewhere that it's not a good idea to bend that and make it straight, something about that caused more trouble. Anyway, since I live 4000' above sea level and travel to different levels a lot, the adjustable main jet made sense.

3. Regarding drilling out the old fixed needle.... Can anyone advise the best drill diameter to use for drilling out the old needle? What is the best drill to use for the thread tap to tap the new hole for the adjustable main jet needle? I'm good with a milling machine and dialing in the perpendicular surface so the needle will be straight.
 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This winter, I'm going to do some upgrading. Adding a custom tank. I want to end that tank mount design used on the 48 Panhead frame. Can anyone advise on the best tank mount setup to use?
 

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48 Pan
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Requesting confirmation... Okay, Bendix carb accel pump rebuilt with an excellent fitting leather seal.

Straightened the idle jet needle. Reassembled with no vacume leaks. Bike fired on 3rd kick. HOT spark at the point and plugs. Timing is dead on.

BUT, Anything more than idle or a gentle turn of the throttle and the bike would sputter and snot up. I didn't kill, it wouldn't backfire.

[/THOUGHT...B] Pull the carb tear it apart and clean it again. Something is in the main jet port clogging up the fuel. When I open the throttle sitting beside the bike, I don't see any fuel through the main jet ports near the throttle plate. Accel pump nozzle is a STRONG jet of fuel right into the mouth of the intake. That part is working well.

OR, can this be the float isn't set right (not leaking fuel), but not letting enough into the carb to provide main jet fuel?

Much appreciate any help on the 4 month old and girlfriend terminator problem. :)
 
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