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Discussion Starter #1
I went to OCHD to look at the Breakout yesterday. They sold 2 last week and had none. I have had my eye on the Wide Glide for the last year. I saw a Fat Bob there and sat on it and it felt great. But, I don't care for the rear fender or the solid no coil shocks. Just wondering if I could replace it with a WG chopped fender? I would replace the shocks with Progressive 444's. And some 12" mini apes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great, thanks.:bowrofl:
 

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I did the FXDWG fender switch on my Fat Bob and have seen a lot of others on the forums that have done it as well. I love the way it looks, but it's not as easy or cheap to do as you might think. Here's some things that you need to know ...

1. The fender is pretty much a bolt on swap - except you need spacers to go between the fender and strut. I used chrome washers. 3 on the front bolts and 2 on the rear

2. Paint ... You can't get the FXDF fender in any color that matches the FXDF except gloss black. So, if your bike isn't gloss black, you have new paint or powder coat in your future. I powder coated my tins.

3. If you keep the stock shocks, only the FXDWG strut covers work (and they are only available in black, not chrome). If you swap shocks, you might be able to use covers from a Super Glide or older Street Bob. I don't use strut covers but wish I could get chrome ones that fit w the stock shocks. No strut covers means the turn signal standoffs don't work - I used chrome spacers.

4. While the fender is easy, the electrical requires some work: You need to extend the turn signal wires and figure out a way to connect them to power as you lose the little circuit board at the back of the FXDF fender. This means you need to do some custom wiring.

5. You also need to figure out what to do for a brake light - I used the HD under fender LED brake light and don't feel it's enough. I'd recommend a run/stop/turn module, too. More wiring.

6. You need a license plate mount (side mount, if you use the under fender brake light) and a license plate light, if your state requires one. More wiring. You can see the cutom bracket I had made just over my exhaust. I used a Figure Machine LED plate frame and backing plate. Used a $5 waterproof switch from eBay that sticks to the underside of the strut so I can turn the plate light on and off ... its wired to plug into the battery tender connector.

7. With the new wiring that needs to connect to the old wiring connectors, I HIGHLY recommend a AMP TYCO crimper like this one on eBay. Soldering the pins is real pain and "crimping" with regular or needle nose pliers just doesn't work.

8. You need to be careful about running wires from back to front as you lose the wiring conduit that is stuck to the underside of the FXDF fender.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, maybe I'll stick with my original choice and get a WG. I chopped ,my XL's rear fender and went through the wiring thing. Got it but it drained me.
 
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