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Discussion Starter #41
Try acetone. It cuts most any glue. Plastic & acetone don't play nice. Wooden popcicle stick will get it.
I actually used mineral spirits on the gummy residue.

Tried it on the gasket and it didn't do anything to any of the subborn parts, even carefully put it on the bits to soak. It did nothing to the gasket material. The only thing it would do to anything, is take off any soft residue, but it wouldn't even soften the gasket material.

The stuff that just wasn't coming off at all with the plastic scrape, or soaking in spirits and using the wire brush... I just had to pick it off with an awl. I went at a low angle with it, scraped from the side and moved the tip side to side against the grain of the original tooling marks.

I didn't want to use anything stronger than mineral spirits because there already was chips and raised edges on the engine paint in various places. I still lost engine paint here and there (mostly due to raised edges in chipped parts), but it can be touched up.

But, it's all done now except the lifter blocks themselves.
 

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Try acetone. It cuts most any glue. Plastic & acetone don't play nice. Wooden popcicle stick will get it.
Gotta be careful with that acetone, powdercoat on the engine cases is a plastic.
 
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Discussion Starter #44
Craaaaap. I can't figure out how to get the cylinder in. I was thinking "how did I get this out?", but then I remembered, one of the cylinder studs came out with the head bolt, so it wasn't in the way. I can't figure out how to get in past the studs and under the frame, no matter how I turn it.

(Obviously when I was trying before, I had the hoses off of the studs, put them back on as protection until I figure this out, staged photo).
 

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Pull the friggin' stud Kyle. As Don said in his breakfast club post: ya' gotta roll with the punches :devil
 
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Discussion Starter #46
Pull the friggin' stud Kyle. As Don said in his breakfast club post: ya' gotta roll with the punches :devil
Yeah, I think I will. Trying to figure out now how to double nut and pull it without bending it.

EDIT:
Got the stud out, able to get the cylinder in there, but my wife is just not knowledgeable enough to help, and the ring compressor I have is a huge pos.

I'm able to get the cylinder past both compression rings, but it gets to the oil rings/expander and it catches, then slightly twists the piston so it's not going on straight, then the ring compressor pops off so the oil rings are in one side and not the other.

My brother is coming over tomorrow to help.
 

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Kyle,
Can you put a couple of 1"X2"s or a couple of strips of plywood between the base and the piston skirt to stabilize the piston? If you get the piston sitting straight and still it will make putting the cylinder on much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Kyle,
Can you put a couple of 1"X2"s or a couple of strips of plywood between the base and the piston skirt to stabilize the piston? If you get the piston sitting straight and still it will make putting the cylinder on much easier.
I thought about it, but I don't want to mess up the base gasket or accidentally get chunks of wood down in the engine. I also don't have any wood small enough anyway.

I figure, I can very gently tap the piston straight if it goes crooked. But, I still need two sets hands on the job even if the piston was stable because I need two hands to work the cylinder down, and a set of hands to keep the engine from turning on me.

Anyway, it was going fine, but the reason my wife couldn't help me is because, when the piston cocked, she didn't have the strength to hold the cylinder where it was while I readjusted/straightened the piston or put the ring compressor back on, etc.

Then of course, my brother was supposed to come help yesterday but, he slept wrong or something and hurt his neck. My wife said she could try to help again, but then she got home from work super late, then she still had stuff to do for her job after dinner...

So needless to say, no attempt made yesterday.

use a hose clamp as a ring compressor on the oil ring.:smile
Well, this ring compressor I have will work just fine... if I have a second pair of hands, which I need anyway even if the ring compressor was perfect.

I just don't have a reliable second set of hands. I've NEVER had a reliable second set of hands for anything. In the past, that meant figuring out how to do a 2 person job by myself, then killing myself to get it done, usually causing mayhem or breaking stuff in the process of manhandling it... and I don't want to break stuff when it comes to an engine.

I know there's some kind of tool or clamp or something that can hold the piston rod or something, that'd be the right way to go solo, but I don't want to spend that much money on something I'll use once.

Hopefully today, I will be able to get it, but I dunno, I also haven't slept well the past two days (maybe 3 hours max per night), I don't even want to try to figure out how to manage it on my own. One thought I had was that I could just put the primary together, put the transmission in gear, strap the back wheel up and do that to keep the engine from turning. But it's much easier to turn the engine using my hand or a strap wrench on the compensator extension part thing that goes on the crankshaft.

I'll update once I get it together.
 
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Repeat :) Put some wood strips between the base and the piston skirt. You can hold the piston against the wood strips by putting a socket and breaker bar on the compensator bolt and let the weight of the bar hold the piston against the wood. Add some weight to the bar if necessary.

I'm going to edit this by saying that many times I've had stuff screwed up by a helper, so I find ways to do things alone.
 
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Discussion Starter #52
Repeat :) Put some wood strips between the base and the piston skirt. You can hold the piston against the wood strips by putting a socket and breaker bar on the compensator bolt and let the weight of the bar hold the piston against the wood. Add some weight to the bar if necessary.

I'm going to edit this by saying that many times I've had stuff screwed up by a helper, so I find ways to do things alone.
Man, do I know that one all too well.
 
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Discussion Starter #53
Well, I test-fit the cam and I am going to have to clearance the gear case, way in the back. I don't yet know about the pinion gear area, I only checked in the back.

Any suggestions for covering that hole and the cam needle bearing while I hit that edge with a Dremel? Because, however I get it covered, I can't have it sticking out and being in the way of the grinding. And, I don't know that I will be able to get tape to stick back there.

I know there's a cutter tool out there that goes into that bearing and connects to a drill, but I don't want to go that route. I have a Dremel and I could also borrow a die grinder, but I don't want to spend over $100 on a big tool I only need once.
 

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You could stuff it with a rag or paper towel. Size it to fit without much sticking out to impede your progress.

Or get a cork.

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #55
At first, I was worried using a cork or a rag, sticking out, would be in the way. But that'll work out fine because I was looking at my cutting options, and it won't be a problem.

Going to go get a tungsten carbide cutter for my Dremel. It looks like a shank, not a wheel. Anyway, nothing will be in the way using that, and it should cut shavings/chunks so that will make for easier cleaning out than grinding or cutting wheel dust. It'll also make the job a lot faster than using a grinder or cut wheel. Even double checked that it could cut steel.

Dremel seems easier and more maneuverable than a die grinder anyway.

But I just realized I forgot to put pics from getting the cylinders done. Anyway, this is as far as I have gotten.

I may get in there tonight and start working on getting clearance for the cam lobes. I test fit the cam and I know I have to clearance that engine boss for the innermost lobe, but I haven't checked any other clearance yet like the area around the breather gear or anything. Hopefully I only need to clearance that one spot.
 

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Going to go get a tungsten carbide cutter for my Dremel.
Be VERY careful with the Dremel. It'll take quite a bit of metal out VERY quickly!

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #57
Be VERY careful with the Dremel. It'll take quite a bit of metal out VERY quickly!

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
Oh I know, I've cut metal with a Dremel before.

Generally, I hold it like a pencil and go light and slow, using one of my fingers like a fulcrum. And I usually sweep the opposite direction of the spin (so, right to left), that way if it jumps, it jumps up and away rather than running away along where I am cutting. My hand also acts as a stop, with all my pressure on the side to prevent it running away.

And I never put downward pressure into where I am cutting. I also pull away after every sweep, in part for the bit and area I am using to cool or not overheat, and also to see where I am working. I even go so far as to look up the RPMs for the given cutter and material to ensure it won't bind and won't cut too fast.

I'm going to be test fitting a lot. I only want to cut as much as I need for clearance and no more. I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of .030"
 

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If you stuff a rag in that bearing, put a bunch of grease on the rag. It will collect and hold the filings and a little grease on the bearing won't hurt a thing.
 
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Discussion Starter #59
Whew. May not be pretty, but I got clearance all the way around for that innermost lobe. Going to go back through with a feeler gauge and see just how much space, but I couldn't get hang ups when I test fit the cam (though I didn't turn the engine over, because I didn't remove the pinion gear, I just pulled out the cam and turned it around, tooth by tooth). Though, it is pretty damn close on that steel insert that the crankcase bearing goes into.

Before that, going to carefully replug everything with new plugs, then use a restaurant style sauce bottle to spray/flush it clean with engine oil, just in case I missed any shavings. Too bad aluminum isn't magnetic, would be a lot easier.
 

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