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ive tried to follow this along, but i didnt ever see a for sure build, ..what motor set up, cam, heads, carb, exhaust u go with? i love to see the power peoples builds put down, lookin forward to yours
 

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Discussion Starter #62
You are going at this nicely.
Thanks. Hopefully I will get some more done today. Going to put the breather gear back in and the cam, then put the old lifters and their blocks on with an extra set of gaskets, then hand turn the engine over to make sure that the cam is clearing all the way around and that the lifters have the room to travel all the way that they need to.

If it all checks out, going to put the primary back together so I can use the back wheel for more leverage when doing the pushrods, put the cam, nose cone & ignition together with the new lifters, gaskets, rods, etc.

Final stretches.

ive tried to follow this along, but i didnt ever see a for sure build, ..what motor set up, cam, heads, carb, exhaust u go with? i love to see the power peoples builds put down, lookin forward to yours
97 Harley 1340 Evo

• Hillside Cycle Evo stage 2 heads w/ compression releases
• Woods W6H cam (.590" lift)
• Wiseco 10:1 domed pistons (stock bore)
• Dynatek 2000i ignition

Sticking with what I had before with carb and exhaust:
• Stock CV carb rejetted with SE DynoJet recal kit (stock 42 slow, starting with a 180 main, thunder nozzle), and ported intake manifold)
• SE air cleaner kit (updated version without the crossover manifold) with K&N air filter
• V&H 2-1 Pro Pipe

Other upgrades include:
• Baker DD6 transmission with the 28 tooth comp sprocket
• all engine gaskets are Cometic (MLS head gasket, metal base gasket)

You can see a full list of details here: https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/forums/garage.php?do=viewvehicle&vehicle_id=15189
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Man, I really should have done the cam first. These bolts are extremely difficult to reach for the lifter blocks on the engine side with the cylinders/heads in the way.

Anyway, everything is set up now, taking a break until my wife gets home so she can turn it over for me while I keep finger pressure on the lifters and watch for any binding or close calls on the lobes.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Well, the lifter block clearance test went well, so I pulled those off and pulled the old lifters out. Now I have the timing cone on with the cam and everything in, to make sure the cam stays straight, going to test again and watch that innermost lobe just to make absolutely sure before I tighten down the timing cone.

But not tonight, it's too hot and humid. Also, once I confirm it, I want to do the ignition when I do the timing cone. Actually installing the lifters and blocks will be after I get the timing cone part of the ignition installation.

Did you have the 2 tools to center the blocks?

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No, I was just about to look into an option for that because I know getting the oil hole in the case, gasket and block is important.

Anything that can be used other than the alignment tool?

EDIT:
Never mind, I just saw from reading ahead they can also be used to align the lower rocker so, I got two on order, they're not super expensive so even if this is a one time use, no big deal.
 

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Proud Infidel
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I was going to say I've got 2 you can borrow., but I won't be home until next week.

One other thing I learned the hard way.

Have you replaced the cam cover bushing and had it honed to the cam?

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Discussion Starter #68
I was going to say I've got 2 you can borrow., but I won't be home until next week.

One other thing I learned the hard way.

Have you replaced the cam cover bushing and had it honed to the cam?

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The one in the gearcase cover?

No, and there's nowhere I could take it here anymore to do that if the Harley dealer can't/won't (Accurate Engineering is shut down for a while, dunno if Barry will reopen it or not). Is that a particularly necessary thing to do?

Luckily, I haven't installed the cover yet (it's just on there loose).

I guess looking at it, it's definitely something, like I can see why one should do that.
 

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On my 80", the chrome on the cover was peeling. I was replacing the lifters anyway, so I bought a new chrome cover. I kept the stock cam.

Evidently the bushing was either too tight or minutely out of alignment. After less than 500 mi, the increased friction caused the key on the pinion gear to shear, and the cam lost time.

It wasn't pretty after that. The valves kissed the pistons.

It was a high mileage motor, so instead of a rebuild, I found a deal on a used S&S 107.

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Discussion Starter #70
Hmm.

I took the cam and stuck it in the cover. It feels pretty tight, but I can wobble it slightly. It seems to only have the same amount of play as the cam that was in it. The bushing also looks like it doesn't have any marring. And based on the work I saw the last guy do... another prime example, he used the wrong gasket on the inner timing cover and stuck the rivets for the out timing cover through the screw holes for the inner cover, the ones on the posts that hold the cam position sensor in place that you screw the inner cover to, and then put a bunch of silicone to half glue/seal the outer cover on. Anyway, I'm certain when he put the Andrews 27 in, he didn't do the bushing, but it seemed to work for nearly 10K miles. Then again, that was a bolt-in cam on a motor that wasn't nearly as built as this will be, and I do have a bug up my ass for doing things the right way.

But, that doesn't say much when we're talking having to be precise enough to use an expansion reamer. According to the manual, 1" expansion reamer and get the hole to 1.003-1.002".

Problem is, beyond not having any way to press out and press in the new bushing (which I could probably get Harley to do, at the very least), that there's no way in hell I could make the hole straight, I don't even own a vice let alone anything I could mount one to, I don't even have a handle that could take a reamer, and the reamer costs over $100 just for one, and I might use it only once.

I just don't trust that I can ream a bushing straight (as in, for alignment). I have a drill press but, it doesn't go slow enough for reaming, and it's not big enough to hold a reaming shank anyway between it's maximum work height.

But, since I have to run errands today anyway, I'll take the cover with me and check with the service department at my dealer and see if they can. I'd rather not take chances on such a built motor. I'm wary of doing any more work on it right now anyway between the heat and my lack of sleep.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
In the meantime, I gotta figure out what to do with all the stock ignition system wires. I could pull them off entirely, but that means opening up the entire wiring harness to fish out the ones for the ignition system.

I unplugged took the stock ignition module off from under the seat. I can just leave that harnesses plug there, maybe plug it. But, the cam position sensor wires from the Deutsch plug below the transmission are lumped together with the wires for the rear brake sensor. I pulled them out of the Deutsch plug. I may just tape them back.

And I guess the new ignition wires can run along the bottom frame, up right before the trabsmission, up the frame to that center down tube between the engine and transmission and across under the front seat triangle, along the top frame on the left to the coil.

It's got a tach wire, making me think about a handlebar mounted tach. Hmmm. They all look to be $180-300. Never mind, I think I will skip the tach, ha ha. Plus, all their instructions are for hooking it up to the coil, and the Dyna 2000i instructions say not to hook a tach to the coil.

Besides, I don't like the look of any of the tachs listed as fitting. I'd really rather it be combined with the speedo, but all the combo speed/tachs for my dash look f-n stupid. Harley has one I wouldn't mind that is analog and looks great (this one), but they of course don't make one for my dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I just thought of something.

TDC on the compression stroke rather than exhaust stroke.

If I had turned the engine for the cam install where all the timing marks (cam, pinion, breather) are all lined up, am I on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke? Because, I don't eexactly have rods and lifters to watch to go off of, ha ha.

Or I guess another way, is once I get the front cylinder to TDC, looking at the engine from the right side, where on the clock face should the inner two lobes (intake) of the cam be pointing?

I mean, I marked off the gear cover where both sides of the notch were in the cam position sensor, but I don't know if that's going to properly line up with the Dyna ignition's notch, you know?

Just in case I get it all together and decide to go ahead and set the static timing before I get the pushrods and rockers installed.
 

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Kyle, a good auto machine shop with piston pin hone would get that bushing fitted properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Dealer got the gear case cover done for me pretty quick, got that on and the tappets yesterday. Today, got the pushrods and rockers all done, clearances checked.

If I keep this pace, I could be ready to run and tune at the end of the week. Next will be the air intake/carb, then the upper mounting bracket and then finalizing the ignition wiring and static timing. Not much more to go really.

Actually, I can do the ignition wire right now, all I got left to do is run the white wire that went to the stock ignition module to the the coil, and then tuck away the unused blue wire (single fire applications) and green wire (tach). The rest of the wires are done. It's just the VOES is on the upper engine mount bracket and I can't put that on yet because it'll be in the way of the left side intake screws.

Any ideas for touching up the engine paint? Like, is there a particular one that works best? It's not super important, hell if it would last, I'd just hit it with a Sharpie.
 

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Proud Infidel
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Or you could use VHT wrinkle. Need to get it warm to cure.

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Discussion Starter #77
Dealer should have some engine touch up paint.
Or you could use VHT wrinkle. Need to get it warm to cure.

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Whichever route I go, I need to put primer on the paint areas, right?

Actually, looking at what all is involved, too much work for touching up, and the reviews for products are too 50/50. Not worth the effort, this isn't a show bike.

I'll probably just try the small touchup bottle from Harley (not the pen or aerosol can), and if that doesn't do it, then it just isn't going to be done. Aerosol probably would work better, but I don't feel like masking stuff off or polishing the fins.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I got a lot of tedious stuff done. Carb and engine mount, as well as everything associated with them (fuel & vacuum hoses, throttle cables, horn wiring, VOES, etc) all on.

Just got the ignition fully wired and static timed. It's about maybe 0.5-1° more advanced than the stock cam position sensor was according to my markings (marked both sides of the notch), but I don't know if that's because the notches in the plates are slightly off from each other relative to their sensors, or maybe my flywheel TDC timing mark wasn't dead center in the viewing hole or whatever. But, once I get the rest of the bike put back together, I'll do the dynamic timing.

Also confirmed that my neutral indicator is working correctly.
 

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