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Discussion Starter #101
Kyle,

Upper wrench and lower wrench held with left hand, adjuster nut tightened with a wrench in the right hand. Can switch hands if you are Left handed. That was a technique I learned helping my father by adjusting the valves on flathead Dodge and Plymouths when I was 14 or 15. No room for movement as they were solid lifters and clearance was set with a feeler gauge. I might add that they were located under the wheel well and behind the exhaust manifold. Tricky buggers. :grin
Yeah, that's exactly what I did this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Getting really close now, 50 miles on the clock. Only rode 17 miles today in total.

Today, rode great, though it clearly needs a proper tuning. Not yet sure what the issue was, seemed to accelerate fine, idled fine, rode fine but it was a little rough when decelerating and got to the lower RPMs once she was fully warmed up. Once she cools down, going to double check the exhaust muffler band and mounting nuts at the head for tightness to spec, though I don't think that was the problem.

Still no leaking anywhere.

Fired up fine cold and hot. Though, on the way home, almost home, when the RPMs were low, when taking off, there was a rattle coming from one of the rods (mother f---er), but only when initially taking off from a stop. Going to double check those again when she's fully cooled, and if a locknut again decided to loosen and walk up and then the adjuster walk, I'm going to try using a toothpick to put just half a drop of loctite between the face of the locknut and adjuster. It is 91° today, running the 20W50 Harley engine oil. However, no noise coming from there when idling or cruising. But, when I pulled in the driveway, I kind of held the brake and let the clutch out a little to put it under low RPM load and it wouldn't rattle again.

The only other issue was at first, when it was cold, seemed a few times in the lower RPMs to almost hesitate a little like it was running out of gas or choking, which went away as it warmed up. Tried richening the a/f screw 1/8th of a turn, but that made the deceleration roughness a little worse. This also was worse if I came to a quicker deceleration or had been on the gas a little before coming down. Wasn't rough if I used engine braking though.

Not sure what's going on with that, I did clean the carb before putting it back together, as well as cleaning the filter and reoiling it. Could be an issue with the float? Seemed fine when I put it together, though I did have to adjust the float level (when I leaned the carb over per the manual, the float wasn't going down far enough and had to bend the tab up). It's also not seemed to have any issues before today with regard to that.

I think I should also probably test that the VOES is working and do the dynamic timing, and definitely make sure the idle mix right.

Didn't seem to be running too hot at any point.
 

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I wonder if you are hearing a spark knock. You have more compression now and it won't like being lugged. Keep it running free (no load).
 

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Discussion Starter #104
I wonder if you are hearing a spark knock. You have more compression now and it won't like being lugged. Keep it running free (no load).
Not sure, it sounded like it was coming from the right side though, but could be. I have never heard spark knock before, so I don't know what that sounds like. Though the fiew clips I heard, sounded more like a pinging, this was like a low pitch rattle that I heard.

I am running Shell gas, 93 octane, from a known good Shell station in it though. No additives like mystery oil or octane booster or Seafoam.

But, my idle mix could be off too. Screw was three turns out, still is 3 turns out. I tried 1/2 turn further out and no smoke from the pipe, 1/2 turn in (from the starting point) and no stumble. Actually, that ± 1/2 turn from 3 turns out on the a/f actually didn't seem to change anything when it was idling. But, it idles steady and idle set right around 1,000 rpm.

I meant to go by the dealer and see if they would double check my timing. My inductive timing light isn't the best, and sometimes it has a hard time reading on those SE plug wires (like, it doesn't want to pick up). Even then, I can't ever see the timing marks on the flywheel anyway with all the oil splashing around.

I'll call them tomorrow and see if I can't get a sit around and wait for it appointment. Once I know the timing is spot on, I will get a few sets of plugs and start tuning the idle/low speed circuits.

I did notice HD has 3 different spark plugs that will work for mine. There are the stock 5R6A (what I have now), then the "longer life Gold" version, then another one that's a "Screamin Eagle performance plug" for high compression. I dunno if that one would make a difference or be worth it at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
I might get back on it later and put an external mic on my phone camera and just ride around the block.
 

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Those plugs look like Iridiums.

I use the Denso version.

The Denso version that fits EVOs is IW16

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Denso-IW16-Iridium-Power-Spark/dp/B000CJ46GS[/ame]
 

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Discussion Starter #107

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Never ran stock plugs except for the first 300 miles.

Running 10.5:1 compression ever since motor had 300 miles on it, and that was 15 years ago.
 

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Getting really close now, 50 miles on the clock. Only rode 17 miles today in total.

Today, rode great, though it clearly needs a proper tuning. Not yet sure what the issue was, seemed to accelerate fine, idled fine, rode fine but it was a little rough when decelerating and got to the lower RPMs once she was fully warmed up. Once she cools down, going to double check the exhaust muffler band and mounting nuts at the head for tightness to spec, though I don't think that was the problem.

Still no leaking anywhere.

Fired up fine cold and hot. Though, on the way home, almost home, when the RPMs were low, when taking off, there was a rattle coming from one of the rods (mother f---er), but only when initially taking off from a stop. Going to double check those again when she's fully cooled, and if a locknut again decided to loosen and walk up and then the adjuster walk, I'm going to try using a toothpick to put just half a drop of loctite between the face of the locknut and adjuster. It is 91° today, running the 20W50 Harley engine oil. However, no noise coming from there when idling or cruising. But, when I pulled in the driveway, I kind of held the brake and let the clutch out a little to put it under low RPM load and it wouldn't rattle again.

The only other issue was at first, when it was cold, seemed a few times in the lower RPMs to almost hesitate a little like it was running out of gas or choking, which went away as it warmed up. Tried richening the a/f screw 1/8th of a turn, but that made the deceleration roughness a little worse. This also was worse if I came to a quicker deceleration or had been on the gas a little before coming down. Wasn't rough if I used engine braking though.

Not sure what's going on with that, I did clean the carb before putting it back together, as well as cleaning the filter and reoiling it. Could be an issue with the float? Seemed fine when I put it together, though I did have to adjust the float level (when I leaned the carb over per the manual, the float wasn't going down far enough and had to bend the tab up). It's also not seemed to have any issues before today with regard to that.

I think I should also probably test that the VOES is working and do the dynamic timing, and definitely make sure the idle mix right.

Didn't seem to be running too hot at any point.
Sounds like timing Kyle.
 

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You run higher than stock compression ratios, right? You notice a difference between stock HD plugs and iridiums?

I suppose I ought to also look into a good battery.
We like/use NGK BPR5ES-11, gapped at .035".
 

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Discussion Starter #111
OK, got the plugs on order.

Went to the dealer to get a new primary gasket because I need to clearance one of the bosses for the screws on the cover. With that 28 tooth comp sprocket, chain as tight as it can be (5/8" on the tight spot cold), it's smacking the cover when it's cold. The boss for the screw in question on the cover is a lot thicker than the boss on the inner primary. Hopefully once I clearance it, it won't be just smacking the cover and inner primary.

While I was there, set an appointment for this Wednesday to have the dynamic timing set. Service was like "uh... let me see if we even have a timing light". ?

They have one though. I'd rather them do the dynamic timing.

Anyway, last night I went out to the garage for something and noticed a little spot of gas on the timing cover, so my carb is overflowing somehow. Body was dry, so I know it's not leaking around the bowl edge.

Other than that, despite not yet being tuned, it's running great and definitely has some pep. I can't wait to break it in so I can see what she can really do.

I got time though, the only place to get a dyno run here is at the dealer, and their only dyno guy got in a wreck last month. Been hearing that a lot more around here lately. There's a dentist next to the office where my wife works and she was in a bad wreck recently too. She died, and her teenage daughter has been in ICU and doesn't even know yet that her mother died. Then another guy I know got hit head on his bike when leaving a gas station last month. He didn't get hurt at all, just the other guy (a truck) cut the corner on the way in. Bent the front of the bike, but it was repairable and not totaled, he traded it in on a new bike instead. He was back to work 2 days later.

And last week, when I was in the CRV, had an SUV just plow through a median and almost side-swipe me. And just yesterday, I watched as an ambulance couldn't get through because traffic wouldn't get out the way, then 3 miles later, a cop had to come block an intersection to allow a fire truck with lights and sirens going because nobody would stop for it. Then people behind me were honking like I was an ******* for stopping for an emergency vehicle. ?

It's getting bad enough that I'm thinking about petitioning a meeting with the mayor, not that that'll do f--- all.
 

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....it's smacking the cover when it's cold. The boss for the screw in question on the cover is a lot thicker than the boss on the inner primary. Hopefully once I clearance it, it won't be just smacking the cover and inner primary.
Just leave it and it'll clearance itself. :)

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Discussion Starter #113 (Edited)
Just leave it and it'll clearance itself. :)

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Ha ha ha, would have taken a while. The boss on the cover was about 1/8" - 3/16 thicker than the boss on the inner primary.

The chain may still smack a little at cold idle, but not like it was. Didn't take long, just cost me some oil and a gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
OK, here's where it's at.

90 miles in on the build.

Last Wednesday, I ordered the Screamin Eagle plugs as the site said they'd fit. Unfortunately, buried way down in the fitment section... only fits Screamin Eagle heads. Found out today, got a refund, no problem. As to the recommended plugs, I split the difference. I went with the NGK instead of Denso, but I went with the Iridium IX (BPR5EIX-11 instead of the BPR5ES-11). Estimated to be here Wednesday, but maybe sooner.

Last night, I removed the carb and it was definitely overflowing. Bottom of the air cleaner was wet with gas, the bottom air holes of the carb were wet, and there was gas just sitting in the intake manifold. Took the bowl off, was clean, no blockage. Tested the float level, float level was where it should be. Gently bopped the float and it did spring back, however, when I did, the float needle was flopping around in the brass inlet tube thing it goes in. Maybe that pin was messed up or something? Dunno, replaced the float needle with a brand new one, and also replaced the float itself with the one from the carb that was on this bike, just in case the float was bad too, but I couldn't see any damage to it.

None of the needles are loose. Been home for at least an hour, just walked in the garage, and I smell gas. Look and yep, still overflowing (gas on the timing cone), and I know I set the float right and did so very carefully. Carb body is still dry. Last night, did not seem at all like the accelerator needle was leaking, though that Dynojet recal kit "thunder nozzle" may just be putting out too much. I did check the accel pump diaphragm, no cracks, still looked brand new. However, definitely seems to be overflowing a lot less now.

At idle, the bike is fine and doesn't smell rich, but when decelerating, it does run a bit rough and high until about a second after I stop and idle. Definitely runs better cold than hot. No problems starting hot or cold.

The noise issue definitely doesn't sound like knock/ping that I have heard in videos. It only happens when the bike is fully warmed up and only lasts a second, and does it if I blip the throttle. Like, say I am going 20 mph in second gear, and I crack the throttle, it'll go "thudududududu" for half a second then quit making the noise. It also doesn't take much, and I haven't once just blasted on hard. Doesn't do it when cold. I was going to try to get video of it, but this stupid phone doesn't support recording with an external microphone (and I also can't find the external microphone I had made). I decided to look at action cams and I am at the point of not going "cheap" and non-flagship like I did on the phone (because so far, every non-flagship tech device has sucked worse than 5-7 year old tech despite being twice as expensive, it's like to get anything where the basic crap you want actually works, you gotta pay triple for the flagship top of the line that has a million "features" you don't care about). Needless to say, not getting an action cam, even then "cheaper alternatives" are over $200 and not even waterproof or anything. Screw that bs.

I'm thinking about going through the rod adjustment one last time. I was looking at the cam specs and at TDC, both the intake and exhaust have some lift (intake .194 and exhaust .176). And the cam has some pretty aggressive ramps on it. So this time, instead of going TDC on one cylinder and doing both rods, I am going to go through each rod individually and ignore TDC and just watch for each to be at the bottom of its individual travel. It'll take twice as long to do, but that's OK.

I'm also thinking of pulling the carb again and double checking the float level, since the float came out of a carb that's been dry for over a year. When I first cleaned the carb and set the float level at the beginning of the build, it was pretty out of wack (too rich), but set it dead on with a vernier caliper and everything. Well, last night when I checked the float level, it was definitely richer than I had previously set it. Also last night, when I set the float level with the new float and float needle, the tab didn't have to be bent nearly as eextreme to get it to the right level as when I set the old float. Also, when I bounced the float, the new float needle didn't jibber around like the old one did. And the new float needle is 4-sided like the old one. If the float needle and float level are good when I check it again, then I dunno what the issue is. I may get a new stock accelerator nozzle and swap back to that with the original weight and check ball.

I've still got an appointment Wednesday for them to do the dynamic timing on it. But, I am also going to double check the static timing too when I do all this. I'm going to very carefully get it to dead-on TDCC (it likes to jump past TDCC when it gets close) and check with the sensor.

Just gotta wait for it to totally cool off.
 

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Discussion Starter #116 (Edited)
Still waiting for the mail. Pulled the stock plugs, pics below (front cylinder on the left in both).

I went through the carb night before last and the float level was still correct. I even held the carb upright like it would be on the bike and gently pushed it up to see where the float needle seated and it's definitely correct.

I didn't hit the carb with carb cleaner because I didn't feel like removing all the rubber and gaskets, but I did hit it with some compressed air. There was no gunk anywhere visible, and the only thing that came out when blowing out passages was gas.

I double checked the mainjet and emulsion tube and they're definitely snug (without being over tightened). I swapped out the float bowls for the one with the stock accelerator nozzle. Maybe the DJ recal kit nozzle is just too high of an output for street use? I know whoever rejetted this carb before, decided to leave the stock accelerator needle.

Cleaned the air filter and re-oiled it.

Still got my appointment for tomorrow for them to check the dynamic timing on it.

Debating about whether or not I should test ride today after the plugs. It's wet, with more rain after 4 pm, but I'm still breaking in these new brake disks and pads, I'm not ready to dodge idiots. And I gotta say, I don't like these semi-sintered pads, they feels just like organic pads. Definitely wanting to switch back to the EBC HH sintered and just dealing with the dust and increased rotor wear.

After getting the dynamic timing, if it still doesn't want to do right, maybe have to go to the next slowest curve. I'm already on ccurve three, there's only one slower curve. May have to drop to curve 4 and advance it a degree or two to get it in between curves 3 and 4. Dunno, we'll see what they say when they do the dynamic timing, it may need to be retarded a little and everything would be fixed.

UPDATE:
Mail came, plugs did not. Checked the tracking...
"In Transit, Arriving Late
Your package will arrive later than expected, but is still on its way. It is currently in transit to the next facility."

Mother f***, no test ride today, apparently.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Alright, almost 200 miles on the build now, not long ago, whatever that knock was went away two days before I swapped to the NGK Iridium plugs.

Finally got the carb doing right by swapping the bowls with the one from the spare carb that had the stock accelerator nozzle.

Idle was definitely a little lean, at 3½ turns out on the a/f screw with the stock 42 slow jet. Can't get it to stumble at idle by going in, can't get black smoke from the pipes by going out either. I suspect I also have developed an air intake leak. I ordered a new air filter, even though I don't think anything is wrong with the one I have, but it had been heavily soaked in gas from the previous nozzle. I've also ordered a #44 and #45 pilot jet. Though it being leaner at idle might also be from an intake leak, though if I do have one, it's not a super bad one.

The spare carb interior is polished, so I am thinking of swapping the jets over to that one when the new slow jets come in. Dunno how much a difference the polished interior would make. Slide also has a 45° angle on the bottom, and CVP brass high flow intake port. I'm going to clean the piss out of it, just to be absolutely sure there will be no issues.

I've been in 5th gear a few times and today got on the highway briefly and got on it just to see what it could do. With the Baker DD6 and that 2.94 first gear, I can run all the way to 25 mph in first without redline, which is great. Bike comes off the line without a pre-rev seemingly about like stock, but at around 2500 rpm, it really starts pulling and about 3000-3500 rpm, it's off like a rocket. I haven't tried a drag type take-off yet or going WOT, and not going to until after I get it broke in another 300 miles and tuned.

Yesterday, I did ride it in the wet and I definitely have to be careful though when it's raining. Very easy to break that rear wheel traction and get the back spinning 1st & 2nd gear if not careful on the throttle even at 2K rpm.

I really can't wait to finish the break-in and get some dyno numbers. There's also a 1/8 mile drag strip about 10 miles from my house where, for $20 with no event going on, you can do a test and tune run. Debated about doing one of those as well, but I dunno with it being only 1/8 mile, and also having never done a drag race before.

Anyway, she's definitely running more consistently now, and no apparent issues. No strange noises or anything.

Appointment is Tuesday for the dynamic timing. Not messing with anything on it until after then, that way I don't screw something up and end up missing my appointment again.
 

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Bike comes off the line without a pre-rev seemingly about like stock, but at around 2500 rpm, it really starts pulling and about 3000-3500 rpm, it's off like a rocket.
Does it peg the fun meter? :)

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Discussion Starter #119
Does it peg the fun meter? :)

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Makes me want to go do 300 miles right now and swap the oils.

But yeah, definitely. Almost got in trouble twice already this week. Once, slow corner in the rain (1st-2nd gear), and once bobbing traffic with a cop headed the other direction. Guess he didn't see me, ha ha ha. I wasn't exactly riding like a jerk though, not splitting cars or anything, just riding frustrated at someone that pulled out in front of me from the right when I was in the left lane, then went slow, womped around quick right left, then there was someone stopping to make a turn and I got on the brakes a little hard (locked the rear tire for a second), quickly checked to make sure it was clear right and went around, cop right there opposite direction when I looked back forward. Not a super big deal.
 

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We tuned one of our customer 80" builds from last spring, yesterday.
Supertrapp-equipped, CV carb, Wood 6H, our heads, Wiseco pistons, and a Dyna 2000i.....85/85 with the OEM air box, and a K&N filter.
 
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