I have an 2000 ultra classic. I shift it into neutral lots after I turn off. Never had a problem
Finding Neutral
On my 06 RK I have great difficulty finding neutral with the engine running but it will slip right to neutral after turning off the engine. Then today I read in the Owner's Manual that "Shifting mechanism can be damaged by shifting gears while engine is stopped", what is the deal with that? Is my RK unique in it's difficulty to stop in neutral with the engine running? Does anyone else shift into neutral after turning off the engine?
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Clutch drag is what makes it hard to find neutral at times. Adjust the clutch correctly and use ATF . :thumbsup
Shifting after motor is off will not hurt the transmission as long as you don't jam it into gears .
Shifting after motor is off will not hurt the transmission as long as you don't jam it into gears .
Have a little trouble with my 06 RK also. Running a barnett clutch, it did get a little easier when I went to atf fluid in the primary. My friction zone starts about a quarter to a third out on the leaver.
That is the #1 reason for difficulty shifting into neutral - a clutch that needs to be adjusted.
Some of the primary fluids seem to help with this - Spectro for example. But if you clutch is out of adjustment an extra slippery primary fluid is only a bandaid.
Pete
Some of the primary fluids seem to help with this - Spectro for example. But if you clutch is out of adjustment an extra slippery primary fluid is only a bandaid.
Pete
Clutch drag is what makes it hard to find neutral at times. Adjust the clutch correctly and use ATF . :thumbsup
Shifting after motor is off will not hurt the transmission as long as you don't jam it into gears .
It is a common thing with these transmissions and clutch setup. It is easier to learn to live with it than get frustrated. My procedure has been while coming to a stop shift into neutral or once in a while once the engine is stops shift into neutral while rocking bike back and forth. Been doing it this way for a lot of years no problems.
The clutch is always adjusted properly using the pri fluid Barnett recommends for their clutches finally even changed out the shift drum to a Baker still no different.
The clutch is always adjusted properly using the pri fluid Barnett recommends for their clutches finally even changed out the shift drum to a Baker still no different.
Shifting into neutral and shifting gears when stopped are very different. The manual means don't try to shift through all the gears when stopped. The transmission is constant mesh, meaning the gears have to be spinning in order to fit into the different gear patterns. First to neutral or second to neutral won't harm anything. Rocking the bike back and forth when stopped also won't hurt if you are gentle.On my 06 RK I have great difficulty finding neutral with the engine running but it will slip right to neutral after turning off the engine. Then today I read in the Owner's Manual that "Shifting mechanism can be damaged by shifting gears while engine is stopped", what is the deal with that? Is my RK unique in it's difficulty to stop in neutral with the engine running? Does anyone else shift into neutral after turning off the engine?
Unless you are new to motorcycles and just need practice, the clutch and or shift linkage is out of adjustment. If you are unable to make adjustment yourself a shop should be able to do this while you wait (less then an hour).On my 06 RK I have great difficulty finding neutral with the engine running but it will slip right to neutral after turning off the engine. Then today I read in the Owner's Manual that "Shifting mechanism can be damaged by shifting gears while engine is stopped", what is the deal with that? Is my RK unique in it's difficulty to stop in neutral with the engine running? Does anyone else shift into neutral after turning off the engine?
Sometimes, slightly blipping the throttle helps separate the discs when at a full stop. After figuring this out, raising the idle speed on my Ultra took care of the issue.
Nothing wrong with any of the above, just a bit more info. Some transmission lubricants also improve the ability to find neutral. Spectro 6 speed and Red Line Shockproof Heavy are both popular choices. Additionally, as mentioned above, the transmission is constant mesh and when the rear wheel isn't moving, sometimes the slots for the engagement mechanism won't line up so you can't get into that gear Rocking the bike or slightly sliding the clutch will move things enough to get the gear to engage. The damage comes from trying to use brute force to overcome the problem rather than moving the bike or slipping the clutch slightly. You can shift into any gear you want damage free without the engine running if you move the rear wheel enough to align the engagement dogs and it will drop in easily. Try to force it and things get expensive quickly. Often the rear wheel must be moved a bit for EACH gear as aligning the dogs for one won't align them for all. Harley is not unique for this situation.
Well said. I leave mine in gear before shutting engine off when ever I stop some where. Put it in neutral before starting, while ECM does it checks. Less drag on starter if clutch is dragging a bit. Always keep it in gear at a stoplight, never know when some knob will be texting and you need to move quickly. Ride SafeNothing wrong with any of the above, just a bit more info. Some transmission lubricants also improve the ability to find neutral. Spectro 6 speed and Red Line Shockproof Heavy are both popular choices. Additionally, as mentioned above, the transmission is constant mesh and when the rear wheel isn't moving, sometimes the slots for the engagement mechanism won't line up so you can't get into that gear Rocking the bike or slightly sliding the clutch will move things enough to get the gear to engage. The damage comes from trying to use brute force to overcome the problem rather than moving the bike or slipping the clutch slightly. You can shift into any gear you want damage free without the engine running if you move the rear wheel enough to align the engagement dogs and it will drop in easily. Try to force it and things get expensive quickly. Often the rear wheel must be moved a bit for EACH gear as aligning the dogs for one won't align them for all. Harley is not unique for this situation.
+1 :thumbsupAlways keep it in gear at a stoplight, never know when some knob will be texting and you need to move quickly. Ride Safe
95 electraglide classic
won't shift into neutral with engine running.
won't shift into neutral with engine running.
Clutch adjustment or replacement if spring disc is broken. Now a intro would be appropriate.
My '97 has a hi performance Rivero Primo clutch. Same thing, but I just don't shift to nuetral when the engine is running.
:nodRed Line Shockproof Heavy...
I always put mine in neutral before shutting it off, never have a problem. Belray Gear Saver 85/140 Hypoid in the trans and Mobil 1 racing 4T 10/40 in the primary.
Try the new Amsoil gear lube with neutral finder additive.won't shift into neutral with engine running.
I have a Wide Glide an shift into neutral many times when my bike isn't running or running either way its no problem.
My Sporster is impossible for me to get in neutral when stopped and the engine running. It always jumps from first to second and second to first, never to neutral. I shut the engine off and it slips into neutral very easily as it should. I just assumed that was part of it being a Harley-Davidson. Maybe I'll try a little more clearance on the clutch adjustment.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Harley Davidson Forums
A forum community dedicated to all Harley-Davidson model owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, builds, maintenance, classifieds and more!
Full Forum Listing
