Can I wire my fog lights (new kit) directly to the Siren switch? It isn't used anymore and would be a more direct route than using the wireharness that came with the light kit. I also have a black toggle switch on LH side. Can I use this one? I think I understand the reason for the elaborate wiring harness is to connect it in such a way that the fog lights only work when the headlight is on lowbeam. I am trying to use existing wiring / switch instead of adding more to the bike. what are the drawbacks of this? thanks. David
Fog lights kit 07 road king police
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07 Rking fog lights
The Siren sw next to the high beam switch does have small wires. The black toggle sw has larger wires. Can you exsplain to me about the relay and fuse. Where would you put these in relation to the lights. Does the service manual have wire schematics this detailed? I can figure alot of things out and can read a book and follow instructions.
I just don't want to "back feed" any thing down into the electrical system as you stated. Bottom line - Just trying to keep it simple! The wiring harness that came with the lights just seems over kill for a simple set of fog lights.
David
The Siren sw next to the high beam switch does have small wires. The black toggle sw has larger wires. Can you exsplain to me about the relay and fuse. Where would you put these in relation to the lights. Does the service manual have wire schematics this detailed? I can figure alot of things out and can read a book and follow instructions.
I just don't want to "back feed" any thing down into the electrical system as you stated. Bottom line - Just trying to keep it simple! The wiring harness that came with the lights just seems over kill for a simple set of fog lights.
David
Doesn't the wiring harness have a Relay in it? I guess I shouldn't assume. I know the one for the Dyna does have a relay. It's pretty simple to use. I think I have a generic relay diagram around here somewhere.
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David-
Use the largest gauge wire you can for lights that you want to work really well,
and consider the sweet simplification of using the switched wire as the control only,
and using a fused heavy gauge wire direct from the battery, and a relay for the actual power.
I suspect on serious lights, routing power this way and not thru the wimpy stock wiring
and switches might deliver an extra volt to the bulbs, and that might mean 20% more light.
By the end of the day, I should have my wiring done, 10 gauge direct for BOTH hot and ground,
a relay for BOTH high beam and low, and a pair of driving lights rigged to run from either/both relays,
depending on what I find when trying out a dizzying array of 20 watt, 35 watt and 50 watt bulbs,
with beams of 36 degree flood, 20 degree flood and 12 degree spot, in clear and yellow
Use the largest gauge wire you can for lights that you want to work really well,
and consider the sweet simplification of using the switched wire as the control only,
and using a fused heavy gauge wire direct from the battery, and a relay for the actual power.
I suspect on serious lights, routing power this way and not thru the wimpy stock wiring
and switches might deliver an extra volt to the bulbs, and that might mean 20% more light.
By the end of the day, I should have my wiring done, 10 gauge direct for BOTH hot and ground,
a relay for BOTH high beam and low, and a pair of driving lights rigged to run from either/both relays,
depending on what I find when trying out a dizzying array of 20 watt, 35 watt and 50 watt bulbs,
with beams of 36 degree flood, 20 degree flood and 12 degree spot, in clear and yellow
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