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Fuel lines

3K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  Breeze3at 
#1 ·
2007 ultra classic started missing and backfiring. When I checked codes it's showing p0131/p0151 and p1356. I opened the gas cap and turned on the switch and heard a hissing sound when the pump primed. Pretty sure I have a leak in the internal lines.
Does anyone know what size hoses or part numbers to get from Napa to fix the problem?
 
#2 ·
Special tank innards, not available from auto parts stores. The fuel filter service is at 25K miles and I usually replace the regulator at the same time. J&P sells the check valve with attached fuel line and the filter comes with that specific fuel line and hose clamps. Those are convoluted fuel lines in there, heavy duty stuff.
 
#4 ·
The J&P parts store has been my go to for Harley injection parts for quite a while now. The MoCo doesn't have to supply fuel system parts for their obsolete EFI systems. Auto manufactures don't have to either ! I go where I can find compatible parts that will fill the bill.
The MoCo never developed EFI systems, they bought aftermarket systems under contract ! Magneti & Marelli and Delphi are not MoCo developed fuel systems, duh ! The MoCo jumped into EFI in pre 1995 touring models to keep up with the competition. I was there, I know !
 
#5 ·
I'm not against paying a little more at the dealership because they have been very good to me but they won't have everything until August. Same with jp on the stock issues.
Dennis Kirk has everything. Hoping that twin power and drag specialties are decent quality because if not I won't be riding for awhile.
 
#6 ·
The aftermarket replacement tank hoses I got for my 2007 were a *^%#$ to get on the fittings. They were .0000 too small in diameter and required a heat gun to soften and get on. EASY with the heat, they go from stiff to melted quick. A HD service manual is VERY handy to have. Following it exactly will prevent problems, especially with your fuel gauge accuracy.
 
#10 ·
I tried boiling water, no help at all. Hair dryer (wifes) didn't get hot enough. Heat gun did it, just before melting point. The most important thing in the service manual (in my opinion) is the procedure for opening the fuel gauge hinge so you can get it out without damaging/changing the setting.
 
#13 ·
Parts came in today and I missed the part that said that the clamp wasn't included with the check valve and hose. I'm hoping that I can get one from a local shop. If not, I'm wondering if I can get away with using a different type clamp on the filter side and use one of the clamps from the filter for the pressure side.
Should have slowed down and read the fine print.
 
#14 ·
I don't remember WHY, but worm style hose clamps are not recommended. Maybe the slots dig into the hard plastic causing uneven tightening?? I just looked in my S,M. and nothing about that. A good auto parts store (NAPA) should have the crimp clamps. I don't have the special pliers to crimp, so I used my "nipping" cutters (end cut/hog nose cutter) carefully.
 
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#15 ·
Well today was a bust. Got the last clamp that I needed and went ahead and took it apart. No holes in the fuel lines. I was going with the codes thrown, noise from the tank when the pump primed, and the symptoms when I started the process. The fuel filter was stopped up to the point of not being able to blow air through it and the big oring on the pressure regulator was pushing out of where it should have been. Hoping that is what the problem was.
In the meantime, I did manage to completely eff up the fuel line going from the pump to the filter with the heat gun.
Hopefully I can get a new line from the dealership tomorrow so I can put it back together.
Not the happiest camper at the jamboree today...
 
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