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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I think I blue the fuse for my factory battery tender on my 2015 Tri Glide,can anyone tell me where the fuse is located? I looked all around the battery and could not find it,I was doing something I should not have been doing and now the tender dont work,tried 2 tenders and neither will work and they both work on my other batteries.Tested the end of my factory wires and nothing so it has to be a fuse just cant find it.Thanks for the help. By the way I put 100 miles on my new T/G and Im loving it,really glad I bought it.
 

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Just Ride
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3,458 Posts
It's inline with your positive end of battery to the tenders plug.
 

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Registered
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40,446 Posts
The Tender cables that come from BT have them, maybe the ones the MoCo uses don't....

But the fuse is inside the black plastic box thing as in the photo here:

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I figured it was in line to the positive side of the battery but there's only 1 wire on each side of the battery terminals,the positive cable and negative cables are the only wires hooked to my battery.I tried to follow the tender wire but it goes into loom with a lot of other wires,this is why I cant find the inline fuse,I will look again but it looks like I'm going to have to let the dealer fix it and that sucks because its my fault.
 

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Unbolt the pigtail and pull it out. You will have to see it then . :)
Unbolt it from where?it does not go to the battery,the only cables going to the battery are 1 ground and 1 positive cable. I can not even find where the tender is hooked to,I do know it does not go to the battery,from the end of the plug it goes into a wire harness and under the seat after that I cant even find what its hooked to,if it was hooked to the battery I could unhook it and pull it out or even follow it but its not hooked to the battery,I dont know what they have it hooked to on my 2015 Tri Glide,I wish someone could tell me what Harley hooks it to so I would know where to look. Why do they have to make it so hard to change a fuse?All the tenders I have ever seen or hooked up went to the positive side of the battery and a chase ground,not this bike.
 

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Life long rider
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138 Posts
on my 14 streetglide the battery tender is in the same circuit as the factory accessory fuse. You are correct that it doesn't go straight back to the battery. It's part of the can bus system. I'm at work now but when I get home I'll check the wiring diagram and let you know for sure.

Have you looked at all of the factory fuses on the main terminal block under the side cover? ..

I'm curious: you said you did something that you shouldn't have. .. what was that?
 

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What I did Scootervee, Im wanting to put some leds on my bike and was testing for a wire that worked with the ignition and I got a arc and after that the tender didnt work,I checked to make sure everything still worked on the bike,lights, radio everything still works but the tender so I tried the tender that was plugged in to my tractor and it dont work on the bike,and I just checked all the fuses in the box under the left side cover and all are good. Now the other thing I did was installed the Vance and Hines Fuel Pak3,could it be the fuel pak3? I left it plugged in so I could use the auto tune.I would not think it was the fuel pak3 but now that you say the tender is part of the can bus system Im not sure.I went with this tuner because it is what my dealer uses. Thanks for your help Scoot

I took the fuel pak3 off the bike and the tender still dont work,so I dont think it was the problem, Even if they have the tender wired in to the can bus it should still have a inline fuse or have a fuse somewhere for it.I would think
 

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Life long rider
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138 Posts
Wiring diagram shows no separate inline fuse. The battery tender lead is on the same fuse as the p&a fuse -fuse#8. It gets its power from the p&a relay -relay#7.

When looking at the fuse block relay 7 is in the lower left corner, fuse 8 is in the upper left corner 2 fuses above relay 7. p&a= parts &accessories.

Maybe you fried the relay.. if you have a multi meter turn it to dc, pull fuse #8, put 1 lead on the frame- unpainted metal- the other lead on each side of the #8 fuse block. If you have power there then the relay is good. If not the relay may be fried. If there is no power you can try to reset the relay by pulling it- pull the main fuse, then the relay- gently tap it to see if the relay coil returns to the original state. Plug back relay then main fuse.

If you have power there you can try to swap another fuse out.. fuses 3,4,5 are spare depending on what extras your bike has. You can also use the multi meter to check the fuse continuity.

The Fuelpak should have nothing to do with the tender. The Fuelpak plugs into the logic portion of the can bus not the power distribution.
 

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Wiring diagram shows no separate inline fuse. The battery tender lead is on the same fuse as the p&a fuse -fuse#8. It gets its power from the p&a relay -relay#7.

When looking at the fuse block relay 7 is in the lower left corner, fuse 8 is in the upper left corner 2 fuses above relay 7. p&a= parts &accessories.

Maybe you fried the relay.. if you have a multi meter turn it to dc, pull fuse #8, put 1 lead on the frame- unpainted metal- the other lead on each side of the #8 fuse block. If you have power there then the relay is good. If not the relay may be fried. If there is no power you can try to reset the relay by pulling it- pull the main fuse, then the relay- gently tap it to see if the relay coil returns to the original state. Plug back relay then main fuse.

If you have power there you can try to swap another fuse out.. fuses 3,4,5 are spare depending on what extras your bike has. You can also use the multi meter to check the fuse continuity.

The Fuelpak should have nothing to do with the tender. The Fuelpak plugs into the logic portion of the can bus not the power distribution.
Ok Ill try this Thank you very much for the help
 

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well with your help Scootervee and knowing what fuse to look at I took a better look and the 20 amp fuse was blown,put the spare 20 amp fuse in and the tender is working again, yaaaaaaaa now I still want to put the led lights on but need to know what wire I should us,dont want to just poke around again,so I guess Ill get a manual unless someone can tell me what wire to use? I was looking at hooking it in to the wires that are plugged in for the tail lights, unless there is a better way to hook them up.Again Thank you very much for the help
 

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Life long rider
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138 Posts
Hey, I forgot to ask you did your battery tender work on your triglide before your LED experiment?

Since the battery tender lead is part of the can bus system and not a direct to battery connection relay 7 has to allow the voltage through when the ignition is off.

You can experiment by plugging in your tender & see the error light. Then turn your ignition switch to the accessory position and try it again. If the tender shows charging when the ignition switch is in the accessory position then it could be that the relay 7 isn't active when the ignition is off.

I use a can bus compatible charger for my bike. It's the optimate 4. It sends a signal via can bus to turn on this relay and allow the charging voltage through. I learned all this when I had a BMW bike with can bus wiring harness. I am assuming that the harley davidson can bus works similar. When I asked my sales person he looked at me like I was speaking Chinese. ... I know this is newish technology for Harley but it's been on place for 15 years on bmw and Ducati.
 

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Are you sure the new Harleys charge via the CAN bus?

Reason I ask is that the dealers are still selling the Battery Tenders for all bikes.
 

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Life long rider
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138 Posts
Honestly I don't know. I already had the can bus charger from my old beemer so that's what I use.

Maybe relay 7 is normally closed back to the battery when the ignition is off to allow voltage back to the battery and then opens to reverse current path and power accessories when the ignition is on. I use the battery tender pigtail to both charge my battery and I plug my heated vest into the same pigtail when riding with no issues.

The wiring diagram shows the tender pig tail as going through fuse 8 and relay 7 not directly to the battery. Both the original poster and I verified that the battery tender leads don't directly attach to the battery itself. Being that the tender pigtail goes through relay 7 - I assume that it is can bus controlled.

Anybody else know for sure on 14 & 15 touring models?
 

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Yes my tender worked before my led experiment, Even in my owners manual they say there factory tender plug will work with any tender, I have 2 tenders one is from Harley and the other is a Battery Tender and both work on my 2015 Tri Glide,if I have my ignition on or on acc and have my tender plugged in the light will go red once I turn the ignition off after a few min the light goes green,and both my tenders are older models,so yes the older model tenders work on the new Harleys. Like Scootervee said on the 14 and 15 Harleys the tender is NOT wired to the battery,I cant say anything about the can bus thing because I know nothing about it,Im just glad I didnt fry anything else when testing for a parking light wire.I can only imagine what it would cost to have that can bus replaced.
 

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Hay Scootervee does your manual show a wire I can tie in to that works with the ignition or parking lights under the seat somewhere? Im not going to poke around again once was enough LOL and again thank you for all your help
 

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Life long rider
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138 Posts
Are you looking to switch these lights separate from the parking lights? Just a hot wire that is energized only when the ignition is on? If so you can tie on to the accessory plug under the right panel. It's the other plug next to the one that you plugged your fuel pak into. My suggestion is to buy the accessory wiring harness from the dealer. It'll give you a factory compatible plug that you can solder or butt splice your new LED lights to. Buy wiring harness 69200722. If you aren't totally sure I suggest that you buy the service manual.
 

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tazmanken
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I want the lights to come on with the ignition no switch,Ill just buy the wire harness you posted the part number for.and Im going to get a manual. Thanks Ken
 
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