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Hi,
Please help me my 2016 breakout isn’t starting! The starter motor sounds really sluggish and doesn’t have the power to start the bike, I have tried different batteries and they do the same thing. My bike was left for 10 months at a friends place while I was out of town so not sure if it was tampered with or not! When I looked around the bike I noticed a exposed 4 pin plug dangling down under the exhaust not joined to anything so I need to identify this plug and whether or not it’s meant to be plugged into anything or not and if it has something to do with bike not starting. I have attached photos of the plug, Any info would be much appreciated regards matt
 

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Does your bike have the security system? The connector might be for that, componets are in that area. Any codes with ignition on? Could be stale gas causing the no start.

And the guy above me knows way more, I didn't see his post when I started typing lol
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the answers guys, that would make sense being the stock exhaust actuator, any ideas on what would make the bike’s starter motor sound and act sluggish? Like there is enough power to crank it properly if at all !! even after I changed batteries and hooked up my Nissan patrol Ute battery with 650cca it still would couldn’t crank over and barely turned. I do have 10 month old fuel in there but can’t get enough crank to see if it will start on old fuel or not. any thoughts or ideas before I take it into Harley Davidson store?! Thanks in advance
 

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Also there were no fault codes just LO RNG, is it possible that if the bike can’t get fuel or the fuel line loses pressure or the sender is faulty that the bike has a safety sensor that allows it not to crank over properly or at all? Just a thought thanks
 

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Also maybe the plug for O2 sensors. Do those pipes have O2 sensors installed ?
The fuel delivery system doesn't contain sensors for fuel pressure.
Try removing the spark plugs and crank the starter over. The crankcase might be sumped, high oil tank on that model Harley.
 

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Put a pan under the bike prior to cranking with the plugs removed. Overflow if sumped !
 

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I will try that in the morning, is this something that can happen from the bike sitting unused for 10 months as it was working 100% fine prior to that.
 

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If no stabilizer, yes. that corn fuel breaks down much faster and seperates in the tank.
 
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I will try that in the morning, is this something that can happen from the bike sitting unused for 10 months as it was working 100% fine prior to that.
Yes the oil leaks past the cam plate check valve over time and loads the crankcase up with excess oil. The excess oil causes the crankshaft flywheels to drag thru the oil. It's a dry sump oil system so the crankcase normally has very little oil in it. The tech term for it might be 'windage'.
 

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Ok great!!, just another peace of information to maybe help diagnose the issue, Is that the battery wiring gets very hot and starts to smoke and sparks a bit after I jump it and then attempt to crank the bike
 

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Ok great!!, just another peace of information to maybe help diagnose the issue, Is that the battery wiring gets very hot and starts to smoke and sparks a bit after I jump it and then attempt to crank the bike
That is generally a symptom of a bad battery connection. Check all battery connections at both ends fro cleanliness and tightness.
 
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Hi,
Please help me my 2016 breakout isn’t starting! The starter motor sounds really sluggish and doesn’t have the power to start the bike, I have tried different batteries and they do the same thing. My bike was left for 10 months at a friends place while I was out of town so not sure if it was tampered with or not! When I looked around the bike I noticed a exposed 4 pin plug dangling down under the exhaust not joined to anything so I need to identify this plug and whether or not it’s meant to be plugged into anything or not and if it has something to do with bike not starting. I have attached photos of the plug, Any info would be much appreciated regards matt
When my 2009 Low Rider starter acted up like that, I eventually found the problem to be a factory defect in the wiring harness where 2 thickish grouund wires go into one ring connector to mount on a ground stud on the top of the transmission.

One of the 2 wires was never properly crimped into the ring connector and neither of the wires had been soldered for a professional job. For 11 years that ground wire touched and didn't touch, touched and didn't touch, etc.

Luckily it "only" took me a year and a half to find it after 5 shops including 3 dealers didn't find it and after I of course threw a sh*t ton of money at replacing EVERYTHING electric except ECM and rotor.

Even then, I got a $700 main wiring harness that was defective and I found the factory had put the plug on backwards that plugs the regulator to the main harness (not the side going to the stator).

That cost me a fortune too because while 5 other shops didn't find it, it blew 4 brand new Harley $170 regulators—yes, I have learned the hard way the cycle electric has great regulators for a fraction of the Harley price.

Before I blather on any longer, I better just recommend check those ground wires and all other connections. Also, if it was a bad battery for too long but you kept plugged into trickle charger at home, it could have trashed the starter and/or possibly other major electrical components.

I opened my starter up because I rebuilt starters for 6 years back in the late 70s/early 80s and all I found was normal contact burns across the contacts in the solenoid. I of course threw a sh*t ton of money at a brand new Harley starter anyway because I wanted as much brand new as possible on my 11 year old (at the time) bike and because I've had too many shots to the head without a helmet and there is a loose nut behind the key.

Good luck and post when you find the disease and the cure.
 

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thx for the pics they clearly show the problem.
I wonder how many of us suffer the same?
Matt how did you go, if you're in Brisbane I could offer help?
I don't know if all Dynas have same or similar main wiring harness and ground stud on top of transmission, but that's where to look. If you see the 2 ground wires, one a little thinner than that battery cable ground it is connected to in the same ring terminal going to a ground stud, just pull a little on the thinner one. That is the one that wasn't crimped at all from the factory and in my opinion they effed up not also soldering any connections like that and even dumber for not providing separate ring terminals instead of putting 2 fat wires into one connector.
 
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