I have over 20k on my 04 TC.The only mod done to the engine is a set of Long Shots.I plan on keeping this bike for a long time and also have plans on the gear drive set up soon.
Is there such a thing as a stock grind on the replacement cams?
Yes, here are the cam specs for a stock injection model, (carbed slightly different)
Timing, Duration(.053 .020), Lift, Lift @ TDC
02/34, 216, 257, 0.473, 0.087
36/04, 220, 260, 0.473, 0.110
Andrews TW21
10/30, 220, 255, 0.498, 0.134
40/08, 228, 264, 0.498, 0.121
S&S 510G "Bolt in cam" (Duration listed for .053" lift only)
20/38, 238, 0.510, 0.187
52/20, 252, 0.510, 0.178
It's suggested by S&S to use adjustable push rods and removeable tubes.With the stock grind,why should it be nessessary to replace the pushrods?
Although not technically necessary just so long as the cam's base circle is the same, adjustable pushrods make things easier if you ever have to go back into the engine in the future.
Do new lifters come w the kit?
No, not needed unless yours are worn. Stock units are fine.
Do all the gaskets and seals come w the S&S kit?
No, I dont believe they do.
Full of questions,aint I!
I deal w spiral cut gears in automatic transmissions and find certain transmissions have a high failure rate at specific bearings due to the longitudinal thrust caused from the screwing effect of the sun gear and planets,The GM 4L60E & 4T65E have some of the highest failures at the rear sun gear and planet,it's the bearing that fails,thus taking out the gears.The FWD 65E's have the pitch cut oposite w the 3.8 engine,this has really helped eliminate bearing failure.
Straight cut gears transfer energy more effieciently but they do create a whining sound,the helical cut gear design is used in transmissions for reduced sound at a customer satisfaction level,not so much as the engineering.