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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to remove the rear fender on my 99 fatty and the 4 allen head bolts in front are stripped. so what are my options to get them off? they're the ones just under the seat that hold the chrome cover on the frame that connects the to the front of the rear fender.

should I just say the heck with it and take it to the stealership to have them to the turn signal relocation for me?

all this cause I wanted a detacable sissy bar.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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I've removed stripped allen bolts by tapping in a torq-bit that's slightly larger then the allen bolt size, and using an impact screwdriver to turn them, to start.

If not, then you'll have to cut a slot in them with a die grinder, and use a flat bladed bit and an impact screwdriver to get them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
oh yea I forgot to mention that it's held in with fresh (2 week old) red lock tite.

never even thought of using a torq bit, thanks for the good advise.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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You're screwed. :D

Use Blue on small bolts and allens, not red. (You know why, now.)

Good luck. Use an impact screwdriver, or the heads will strip out again.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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I'd try a sharpened chisel or punch, dig into the head and tap it with a hammer in the direction it needs to turn. Heat it some if it needs it.

'Course that assumes you can't use vise grips.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well I got the sissy bar on and the turn signals relocated with out messing with those bolts. I just hope that I won't have to deal with them until next winter when I want to get the bike painted.
 

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yes but they are also known as pad pins. Today I tried my best to re-tap the pad pin (torx bolts) and had no success.
 

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The Northern Redneck
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I remove these bad boys quite often for a local independent HD repair shop...These bolts are a 3/8" X 16 thread. First I center punch them, then drill them with either a # 30 (1/8") in a high speed steel bit or cobalt drill bit with my air drill or a good electric drill motor making sure I drill straight and true. As you drill through make sure you don't blast through the back side of the bolt a do damage to what is behind it. You can stop before you go all the way through. Then drill the hole out larger to 1/4" making sure you stay centered. After insert an "easy out" and tap it in tight with a hammer. Then grab the easy out head with a pair of vise grips making sure they are on damn tight. Turn to the left and it will come loose. then remove the shell of the bolt and move to the next one...When done with getting the bolts out, DON'T replace them with torx fasteners... Use either the chrome domed allen head or chrome hex bolt...and DON'T put red Loctite on it either...Use the Blue 242 Loctite. It will hold just fine.....Take your time and be carefull.....It is not as hard as it sounds...I do these repairs all the time for guys that freak out over it....Good Luck...
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Not with red Loctite holdin' them....left hand bits are great but the red is nasty shit, usually for things you Never want to take apart....:nod
Add heat.
 

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The Northern Redneck
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Dave,,, Heat is great to bust the red loose but kinda hard to use in an area that has painted parts close buy and a battery close too...kaboom...and you'd have to do a lot of spot re painting of the frame....being in the metal fab biz, I stay away from heat as much as possible as is changes the molecular structure of the metal and creates heat effected zones which translates to premature metal failure...aka a broken part later....
 

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SNAFU organizer
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Dave,,, Heat is great to bust the red loose but kinda hard to use in an area that has painted parts close buy and a battery close too...kaboom...and you'd have to do a lot of spot re painting of the frame....being in the metal fab biz, I stay away from heat as much as possible as is changes the molecular structure of the metal and creates heat effected zones which translates to premature metal failure...aka a broken part later....
gotta be selective, run a TIG arc on the bolt head for a couple seconds. Till its warm and toasty Red would become pliable around 200 Degrees I'd think.
 

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The Northern Redneck
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tig arc

vlade, the red you see in metal is 800 degrees, orange is 1,100...most people don't have access to a TIG machine...sometimes I TIG or MIG a hex nut to the outside of the fastener with a problem, that takes care of red Loctite too, then after it cools I put a box end wrench or socket on the not and simply turn it out... this works great on broken shock bolts on softail swing arms...:)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
blackdog: thanks for the advice. worked nice and easy... just the way I like'em.
 
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