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STAND AND FIGHT!
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13,499 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I usually don't do very well getting projects done, and I've been sick to boot.
However, once I had my B-Rod up on the lift and secure to do Progressive
front springs swap out, and it was too cold to go for even a test ride as sick
as I've been, I decided to go ahead and jump into putting on the engine guards
/crash guards that I've had stashed away.

Damned if I didn't get it all done, well, almost, still have to put my instrument
cluster back on. Hmm, I also have a Raptor shift light I've been hiding away for
about a year now, since I'm on a roll, maybe I'll figure out how to mount it.
 

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Just passing thru
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6,636 Posts
Nice. Maybe it will spark me off to get my stuff done. I'm waiting on a few back ordered parts though. Did you take the forks off for the spring job?
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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13,499 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Nope. Laid the handlebars back was all. measured the oil level at it's highest and lowest point and guesstimated it's height if it was vertical. Didn't even change the oil. Just removed some.

Did you use the PVC spacer as it was, or did you have to cut it down?
 

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Just passing thru
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6,636 Posts
I cut mine down to the recommended preload. I forget what it was but it was preloaded far less than stock.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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13,499 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
"..the recommended preload.."
'?? Umm, must be some instructions I didn't read somewhere.

The metal spacers that came out with the stock springs stuck out a good 4" reassembling with the pvc spacer, it only stuck up about an inch, I could easily press the cap down and screw it closed with my palm.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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13,499 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Do you know how instructions get written? A clerk/photographer goes to a production line and tells the production supervisor he needs help writing the instructions, the production supervisor chooses the worst dumb-ass jack-off he can do without.

These instructions have this interesting sequence of notes...

3. Spacers are not included. They may easily be fabricated from
aluminum or PVC pipe.

5. Spacer required is furnished with springs.

7. Install new spacer (1.75" PVC) below stock metal spacer to allow
adjustable cap to function.
8. Reuse stock spacer.
9. Remove stock spacer.
10. No spacer required.

WTF??

The notes on these new springs for my LowRider say all of the various models need either 5" or 5 3/4" spacers,
curiously what is included is a pair of 2 3/8" spacers.
 

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Just passing thru
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6,636 Posts
I believe that this set of instructions is generic for non lowered street motorcycles. The bottom portion is a list of explanations of the footnotes that should be included in the instructions they send to you after you let them know what specific bike your installing them on.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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13,499 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I'm going to have faith that these guys are "hardware" and that the hard parts are right, making the instructions just perfect isn't a high priority. The part number on the LowRider springs springs box is correct on the web site for the non-lowered set.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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13,499 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I did figure out how to install the engine protectors crash bars, not a bad task at all, including re-rigging my old fix for the foot peg bolt that was subject to shearing when the straight peg it was designed to hold was replaced with heel rest pegs so serious torque is applied. If you remember, I drilled all the way thru the foot peg mounting socket so the 1/4" unthreaded portion of a shoulder bolt had support at both top and bottom shear points, and then the threaded portion had am acorn nut on the outside of the foot peg socket structure, since the engine protectors use a clamp that surrounds the foot peg mounting socket, I had to remove my fix bolt, install the clamp/mount/surround, then drill thru it with a smaller drill and tap/thread the clamp body on the bottom, so it now takes the place of the acorn nut I was using on the underside. For me it worked out very tidy.
I forget how anyone else finally fixed that problem, but that could be the most complex part of the install. the rest is pretty standard and requires no unusual tools, just about 3 different metric Allen wrenches.
Still haven't ridden it, the bars are going to take some getting used to.

In this pix you can see the chrome acorn nut in the far left lower corner peeking out below the foot peg socket structure, since the crash bars mounting bracket completely surrounds that structure they would not fit with that bolt in place.


Since the threaded portion of the shoulder bolt is all that protrudes below the foot peg socket structure, I just drilled and tapped the collar/mounting piece from the crash bar mount, so it now takes the place of the acorn nut fastener.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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13,499 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Here's the pix to show how I mounted engine protectors with the added complication that the area where a structural mounting clamp needs to fit has been modded.







The clamping bracket could have been pot metal, but is heavy and magnetic so I assume it's a forged or at least swedged steel part, so threads will hold. The foot peg itself, and also it's heavy black steel frame integral mounting socket are drilled 1/4" straight thru. I needed a properly centered 5/32" hole in the bottom of the new clamp for the threaded section screw into, to take the place of, and maybe improve on my acorn nut fastener. When the new chrome clamp was in place, and snug, with a small bright light I could look down the access tunnel drilled into it and see thru the foot peg socket and the foot peg all the way thru to the bottom where the centered 5/32 hole needed to be. The fit is tight, in order to drill the hole originally I had to use an 18" long 1/4" bit so the electric drill wasn't in it's own way, that same bit served in this case as a self centering pilot drill, just enough to make a mark where the 5/32 hole needed to be centered. I took everything back apart and drilled and tapped the chrome engine protector clamp, when everything went back together my grade 8 shoulder bolt fit beautifully, screwed right in tight to the new clamp, even went thru far enough that I may put my acorn nuts back on, if just to seal the threads against rust.
 
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