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Hammer 1275 Kit Pinging/Knocking

1448 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  XL1200R
Hey Guys,
The bike in question is my venerable 05 Roadster 1200 converted to a Hammer 1275 with Impact 560 Cams, Cobra El- Diablo 2-1, and the Impact air cleaner.
Stock CV carb, I’ve tried 45/190 and 48/195 jets. The exact problems occur with both jet sets, I’m just wasting more fuel with the larger sizes I've come to determine.

Symptoms: I’m getting intermittent pinging/knocking under certain conditions.
The bike will run perfectly strong for awhile. Then, seemingly out of nowhere will just start pinging at 2-3K rpm. It will also knock sometimes coming off the clutch, never at higher RPM thankfully though.

What is really interesting is that I’ve noticed that if you do a high speed run, IE really load the bike up it will accelerate strong at first. Then, it starts to fall on its face. It will just get stuck as if you hit a governor at anywhere from 85-110mph. Sometime it even sputters as if you're running out of fuel even though I have plenty. Then, when you let off the bike runs like complete crap for minutes on end. By that I mean it sounds different, it has noticably less power, and when you let off the throttle feels like you have 1.5x the engine braking as normal which is strange.

Ambient temperature doesn’t seem to affect it. Hammer performance recommends at least 92 octane gas. I am using 93, and from the best research I can do on it I believe to still be getting 92+ octane even accounting for some mix of the old octane at the pump.


It was throwing the P0373 code..which per google is the crank position sensor intermittent signal code. Changed the sensor and...it still throws the code. not even sure if it is related but CPS signal does affect timing on these bikes. So I think worth mentioning.

Now, with all this said. If I dump a healthy amount of VP Racing octane booster in it all the problems seem to go away. I estimate about 96 octane or so. So you would think ok, the timing is just too advanced…and maybe. But, Hammer has made so many of these kits and swear up and down not to touch the timing settings they give you. So even to retard the timing I’m not particularly keen of. Along similar lines, there customers aren’t using octane booster on the regular so what am I missing here? I am really stumped.

Plug wires are pretty new and in good shape, plugs are new and Hammer recommended temp range....also the bike ran great before the swap at any speed. Compression is good, right at about 195psi which is what Hammer says it should be.

Thanks everyone.
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If everything is good, no intake leaks, etc, I would assume a timing issue based on what's said.

I don't know what's programmable with what you have or much about Sportsters. But, it sounds like the timing is close, just a little off. Are there selectable curves? Go back where you started on the carb jetting and try the next less aggressive curve if you have selectable timing curves.

Ping under load could be too aggressive a curve or possibly a faulty VOES switch, ping only at high rpm could be just too much maximum advance.

You could also try retarding the ignition by about 1° and see if that helps (you barely have to turn it for that). That will shift the entire curve down. This only works with old timer cup style timing modules where there's a cup in there with two cuts that passes through a sensor. I don't know how to adjust timing with CPS sensor stuff.

If you pull the spark plugs, you can also get an indication of the timing by reading the ground strap. At some point on the ground strap of the spark plug between the tip and where it connects to the base of the plug, there should be a color change, or possibly a little band across it. You want that point where the band or color change is to be right about where the bend is on the strap. Too close to the tip indicates timing too retarded, too close to the base indicates too advanced.
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Thanks for the input. So I have a Daytona Twintech module. They have little dials on them for setting timing, and rev limiter. So I can play with the timing. I'm not entirely opposed, however Hammer perf really stresses that you shouldn't have to do that. Granted, my bike may just be unique but you'd think after probably thousands of these kits they would have ran into this by now.
Here's the thing. The twintec has an inital timing setting (like physically moving the old school timer cup retard or advance) and it has a slope setting. Hammer recommends initial 0, slope 2. So I can't even go lower on the initial timing, it's not even possible. I could reduce the advance slope and try that, I have thought about it. I could also just run octane booster...which is ok other then being a pain in the butt, I just don't love knowing something is somewhat wrong with the bike ya know.
OK, but can you rotate the twin tech module to retard timing? This would keep the same curve, just shifted down a little (would reduce the degree of advance across the whole RPM range by same amount, as well as maximum advance). You can try that or try the next less aggressive curve. However the curve you're on is probably the right one. Good timing could be in-between curves.

Module sounds like based on the old Crane Hi-4 style.

Also, after the static timing was set, did you use a timing light to set the dynamic timing?
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OK, but can you rotate the twin tech module to retard timing? This would keep the same curve, just shifted down a little (would reduce the degree of advance across the whole RPM range by same amount, as well as maximum advance). You can try that or try the next less aggressive curve. However the curve you're on is probably the right one. Good timing could be in-between curves.

Module sounds like based on the old Crane Hi-4 style.

Also, after the static timing was set, did you use a timing light to set the dynamic timing?
So in therory yes...but that dial for total timing advance is already at the lowest possible setting (0-10 and it's set to 0). Otherwise I would 100% try that.

There is no timing hole on these newer bikes. The little cover on the side of the cam chest is just a dummy plate even too. The dynamic timing is "automatic" based on the "slope" curve on the module which is set to 2. That one I could back down to 1 or 0. It then uses that curve plus the Crank Pos sensor and MAP sensor readings to set the exact amount of timing.
Check the VOES operation and for vacuum leaks between the carb, VOES and petcock. The VOES gets tested using a vacuum pump and multimeter.
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Hey guys so I have some updates on this:
I talked to Dan at Hammer performance extensively and got a ton of good info.

First thing's first, the recommended timing settings are Initial 2, slope 0. I said it backward in my OP. So with that said, after giving him a run through he said no problem at all going down to initial 1 or initial 0. Going down to initial 1 has already made a noticeable difference, I may even try 0 after a few tanks. Long story short I was overthinking it a bit.

@SCHMIDTY I actually did test the petcock awhile back and took it apart all good there. I did not however check the MAP sensor yet (no VOES on 04-06 sportys) but that is a good idea too.

Since the OP i also measured my ign coil resistance. Primary resistance spec is .5-.7ohms, mine was at 1.5 on both side, with two separate meters. Despite that is it the problem...probably not but it said word for word in the manual to replace if over .7. For good measure I bought a new one, why not.

The conversation then moved to the seemingly bizarre, randomly occurring issue where after higher RPM pull the bike feels like it has a brake stuck on and wont accelerate super quickly, and decelerates very fast. Likely could be caused by wet sumping where the oil pump can't move oil fast enough and you slowly start filling up the crank case. I tried to test it where you basically get it to happen, shut the bike off immediately and check your oil level. I got it to kinda do it once and my oil level seemed a little low...so more info on that one later down the road but may be onto something there.

Lastly, the weird cutting out as if I hit a rev limiter on high speed pulls. Long story short the CV carb elbow and petcock on the bike itself don't flow the best. So if you really want to ride these bikes hard, especially if you're a bit lower on fuel you can drain the bowl too fast.

So, long winded answer but lots of stuff to keep looking into and doing. I'll keep you guys in the loop.
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