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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a V-Rod guy, so bear with me.

I'm doing some "upgrades" on my brother's Low Rider. I took off the tank to get to the connectors for the hand controls, and lo and behold, no connectors. The wires run into the spine of the frame and re-appear in the power distribution area. Are there NO CONNECTORS for the hand controls on the DYNA'S?

I presume they're in the frame spine somewhere.....
This is going to get frustrating!!

RJ
 

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Wot year Dyna is that RJ? I might have a manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2000. Thanks Mike. I have a manual for a 2004, but the wiring scheme is different.

You're supposted to cut a zip tie that holds a "service loop" in the wiring, but there isn't a "service loop" on the 2000 Dyna, that I can see.
 

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Oh yeah - this jhob is a real mission!!!
From infront of the rear wheel, between the fender and the frame, you need to loosen and give loads of slack to all the loom that goes into the frame.
From the top of the frame, at the neack area on the right, remove the rubber bung to aid in pulling the wires out from the front (use WD40) - its a mission, like i said - sometimes there is barely enough slack to get the loom out far enough to expose the connectors, but you can seperate them.

Good luck if its not all done yet!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks AJ. I've been working on this after work every once in a while. I have gotten the connectors out of the spine. I'm installing a Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition Module on it, and a boat load of LED accent lights from custom dynamics.

I've also installed a new set of handle bars, 12" apes, auxiliary lights, and rear run/stop/turn module.

While none of it is particularly hard, I'm doing things a bit different than stock.

1. The Auxiliary Driving lights: Does it really make any difference if they go on with the low beams and cut out with the high beam? It really makes no sense to me, nor to my brother. So, he wanted them on all the time. Who am I to point out legal issues, so on all the time is what he got.

When I looked at the relay that was supplied with them, it has 2 feet of unprotected wire that comes off the battery terminal, and then an inline fuse, then to the relay.

So, I look around the power distribuition area, and found an empty relay socket, with 3 unused fuse areas.......Problem solved.

I wired primary wire to the fuse, from the main circuit breaker, leaving a whopping 4 inches of unprotected wire, vs the 2 1/2 feet of unprotected wire. I ran the relay switch directly from a red/black stripe wire which is powered by the ignition. The Ground wire is right there too, off the relay next to it. Nice and Clean. It looks factory too.

2. Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition Module
This presented a couple interesting issues. I have installed these on maybe half a dozen V-Rods and I can do it pretty much blindfolded at this point. I found a nice tucked away area behind the power distribution area where it fits PERFECTLY. The only problem that presented itself was removing the tank and accessing the wires for the hand controls.

Since we had these wires exposed, my brother thought it would be a good time to route the wires through the bars.......Why not? That's the project for tonight.

3. Accent LED's

These come with a judco switch. The same type that is used for the Odometer function. So the logical place to put it, is on the counsole on the opposite side from the odometer button. So, a little planning, and fabrication, and some gentle persuasion with a drill......We're in buisness.

Now it's just a matter of drawing power to the switch and then back to the LED's. Looking back at the power distribution area, there happens to be an unused power lead to the fusebox labeled "Batt." A little quick work with a fuse terminal and some primary wire, and we're back in buisness.

I like wiring things up without having it look like a rat's nest. So, I'm taking my time and will have this done tomorrow.

Thanks for your help.

Did I mention I also changed out the Dunlops with a nice set of Metzlers?

It's been a busy week. ;)
 

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1. The Auxiliary Driving lights: Does it really make any difference if they go on with the low beams and cut out with the high beam?
This is usually mandated by law. Most cops don't know the requirement exists....but some do.
 

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Is there a simple way to have some sort of switch that allows for a separation of the auxiliary and high beam lights for just those times when desired?
 

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I think it's very important that you test and determine whatever lighting enhancement you do isn't blinding or even annoying to oncoming drivers. Some jackasses act like they don't care about blinding oncoming drivers, but hopefully Darwin's Law is accurately weeding them out, and not some soccer mom's minivan full of kids, when the blinded driver hits somebody head on. One surely bad idea is shorting high and low beams together. Try looking into any aftermarket 55W driving light, high and low filaments running together is 110W. Most HID aftermarket installations I suspect fall into the widow-maker category, too.

I've got a bunch of lights and relays, for a dormant project aimed more at improving my bikes' daytime "conspicuity" to other drivers than the normal purpose of the driving lights. I do have a diagram to convert everything to direct relay feed, plus add the "driving lights." Even stock lights suffer from having their power go thru wimpy wires and even wimpier switch connections, and it turned out it's pretty complicated, enough so what looks like it could all be done with relays alone actually needed a few heavy duty diodes to act as one way points in the wire, to keep the circuits separate.

Daniel Stern Lighting is THE source for relays fuse blocks and advice. Some free diagrams and plans are on his site at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Here's his explanation of the negative consequence of the voltage drop in stock wiring, pointing to cars of course.
WHY USE RELAYS?

Power for the headlights is controlled by a switch on the dash. This is *not* a great place to tap into the system, for two reasons: The headlamp switch uses tiny, high-resistance contacts to complete circuits, and the wire lengths required to run from the battery to the dashboard and all the way out to the headlamps creates excessive resistive voltage drop, especially with the thin wires used in most factory installations. (Stock HD lighting wire is thin )

In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential with the power 3.4. For example, let's consider a 9006 low beam bulb rated 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and plug in different voltages:

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens



BTW, just in case anybody ever thinks changing to direct relay feed for improved brightness is a good idea, I'm not real sure about a stock headlight housing, but I've found that MY 7" aftermarket headlight housing :ride has plenty of room inside for adding relays and wiring, and the original wimpy lighting wires I'll use to control my relays already go there, so with no more wiring hassle on the body of the bike than to run one kick-ass heavy fused power wire into the headlight housing, then converting the wimpy stock switched light wires to the relay control signals, I'll have dramatically improved lighting w/o overloading the wimpy stock wiring and switches.

Lil's question of controlling Auxiliary lighting as to running with or without brights is a problem for relays as well. Quality Bosch relays offer paired output spades so it's a good place to make one light switched wire control two or more heavy duty outputs
 

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You lost me.

Completely, totally and absolutely.

And I am a genius.

God knows what you did to the poor bloody infantry :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 

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I took the requisite physics to understand this in college back in 1979 and have not used it much since. If you gave me the parts and tools I could, if put to the test, do the installation.
 

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Too Much Information.

Mas Short Form:

stock lighting works poorly on Dyna, V-Rod, Sportster :
(anything with 5" reflector and no auxiliary lights)

Way too much length, of way too thin wire, (22 ga? )and switches to boot. Resistance = Drops voltage
20 to 30% reduction in bulbs light output

Even Stock bulbs would work much better with full voltage.
Solution is Short straight run of heavy wire (12 ga )and relay,
controlled by the thin wire and switches.

Upgraded high outout bulbs suffer even worse, hooked to stock thin wires with switches.

**** Related Next Subject ******

Here's roughly what my conspicuity lighting project was/is going to look like.
Odd place for lights, bulbs come in white or yellow,
wide flood to narrow spot, 20W to 50W
I'm using the fender mounting bolts, rather than the brake caliper mounting bolts.



 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nathang,

I think you're absolutely right. I put the auxiliary lights on a relay for just that purpose. The relay I'm using is a Bosch Micro Relay, in a stock wiring position. Nice and clean, and works great.

Lil,

I could put a switch on it. He doesn't want one, so who am I to argue with him.

CBM,

His bike, his tickets. I told him how it's supposed to be, and he wanted it differently. Who am I to argue?
 

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You are a good brother, RJ. ;)

Nathan,
I LOVE THE WAY THOSE LIGHTS LOOK!!!!!
When I had the bikes with engine guards I always thought about putting HD fog lights on them. What do you think of them?
 

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The HD fogs are bright, for sure. In fact, since I'm pretty seriously considering engine guards for both bikes, they sure do present a handy place to mount lights. In fact, I have always thought that there was probably a place on the right side where bright lights could be used even when close to approaching traffic, because the front wheel would shade the oncoming lanes from the driving light.
 

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You lost me.

Completely, totally and absolutely.

And I am a genius.

God knows what you did to the poor bloody infantry :rofl::rofl::rofl:
Ya gotta cut Nathan some slack. He has a lot of free time on his hands to ponder such things.
 

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Ya gotta cut Nathan some slack. He has a lot of free time on his hands to ponder such things.
I prolly would have understood if I had been anywhere near sober :rofl::rofl:

Reading it again, it's a very good explanation. Thanks, Nathan.
 
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