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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I stripped out the screws doing a brake fluid flush on 2014 iron 883. Finished the front but the rear screws stripped. Would like to replace front and rear screws

1. How do I get oem replacement screws? Do I have to purchase the a master cylinder cover to get the screws?Park number for original?

2. What do you recommend in order to remove the rear stripped out screw? Take it to a shop?

3. What is the right tool size for me to buy so this doesn’t happen again?

Rear,
793501


Front
793502
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like you should be able to get the screws out with an easy out. I wonder if the replacements can be found with an allen head screw instead of a phillips head.
I ordered oem replacement screws with spares already. I think I saw an aftermarket one with an Allen head screw on eBay but I did not want to take any chances. Saw a YouTuber mechanic have his as an Allen head screw.

I’ll be trying the rubber band trick I saw on a video before buying an extractor kit. Plus I’m a little nervous about the extractor kit as it will be the first time using it.
 

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Jjust stop buy an auto-parts store and get a tube of "Grap-it" (OR): Some cleanser like Boraxo works. I have not tried it with Clorox cleanser but, it should work: Add a drop of liquid (water or just spit) and make up gritty paste. Put a small dab of this paste either on the screw or dip the tip of the screwdriver into it. Or both! Put a "KNOWN GOOD" #2 Phillips screwdriver into the screw. Give that screwdriver a gentle whack with a small hammer (to seat it into the fouled screw) Keep a good downward pressure on the screwdriver (into the screw) and Turn it loose (LEFT) with a wrench on the screwdriver shank.. Put some quickness (shock) in initiating the turning. Don't ease into the turn!

Once the screws are broken free, clean off the paste! So you don't get any dropped into the hydraulic fluid! Then remove the screws..

How it's done on Helicopters!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jjust stop buy an auto-parts store and get a tube of "Grap-it" (OR): Some cleanser like Boraxo works. I have not tried it with Clorox cleanser but, it should work: Add a drop of liquid (water or just spit) and make up gritty paste. Put a small dab of this paste either on the screw or dip the tip of the screwdriver into it. Or both! Put a "KNOWN GOOD" #2 Phillips screwdriver into the screw. Give that screwdriver a gentle whack with a small hammer (to seat it into the fouled screw) Keep a good downward pressure on the screwdriver (into the screw) and Turn it loose (LEFT) with a wrench on the screwdriver shank.. Put some quickness (shock) in initiating the turning. Don't ease into the turn!

Once the screws are broken free, clean off the paste! So you don't get any dropped into the hydraulic fluid! Then remove the screws..

How it's done on Helicopters!
Thank you for the tip.
I tried the rubber band trick with a #2 philips socket and ratchet today. I needed up stripping the rear more. The front was successful waiting on replacement screws and I’ll be more careful.

I don’t have a lot of space to keep many tools around. I am contemplating on calling an Indy shop or dealer to see if they can take care of it. I’ll see how much it would cost vs buying the tools I need to take care of it myself.
 

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Thank you for the tip.
I tried the rubber band trick with a #2 philips socket and ratchet today. I needed up stripping the rear more. The front was successful waiting on replacement screws and I’ll be more careful.

I don’t have a lot of space to keep many tools around. I am contemplating on calling an Indy shop or dealer to see if they can take care of it. I’ll see how much it would cost vs buying the tools I need to take care of it myself.
Screwdriver tip, some way to add leverage and some way to strike it = 3 small hand tools.

The method i described uses a No2 Phillips tip (this can be done with a tip from a screwdriver kit (the tips are assorted about an inch long), a 1/4" end wrench (box or open end) or a small adjustable (6" Crescent wrench) and small hammer. Or anything that you can strike that apex tip with. Add a pinch of powdered cleanser..

That's about as minimal of a tool kit as possible. Just sayin'

I must admit, I don't know the rubber band trick.. Although, I have spent the past 40 years as an Aircraft Mechanic.
 
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You must be very young NYWolf. I'm sure there is a long list of stripped screws and nuts and bolts in all our memories. I drill them out when they are like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You must be very young NYWolf. I'm sure there is a long list of stripped screws and nuts and bolts in all our memories. I drill them out when they are like that.
Yeah, I must have a made a big deal out of this screw for no reason haha.
It is the first time it’s happened. Might as well buy a drill and extractor as it might not be my last either.
 

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And when you are done, don't over tighten them.
 
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What is this "Rubber band trick" you speak of?
 

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Yeah, I must have a made a big deal out of this screw for no reason haha.
It is the first time it’s happened. Might as well buy a drill and extractor as it might not be my last either.
Don't need an "extractor if you drill them. They will come out with your fingers. Unless someone used "gasp" thread Locke on them. :(
 
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It’s just putting a rubber band on the screw to fill in the gap and grip it better. This is a short video doing just that.
It worked for the front but the rear was to far gone for me.

Thanks, now i know! I will stick with EZ-Grip paste (My apology, I called it "Grab-it", earlier. It's EZ-Grip) or the cleanser... Tried and true in my practice... For some silly reason, the Marines just love installing a screw with too long of a shank, thus trying to thread the smooth shank of screws... We use the paste trick at work on a daily basis.

Grab-it screw extractors have yet to work for anything that i have tried. Yes, i did buy the set.
Now W-A-Y far and above all extractor sets are the ones sold by Snap-On (Did i mention, i am no fan of snap-on!) but, this works! $150 for the set! The other that is the same set is from Rigid, its just south of $100. For those who are serious!

 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, now i know! I will stick with EZ-Grip paste (My apology, I called it "Grab-it", earlier. It's EZ-Grip) or the cleanser... Tried and true in my practice... For some silly reason, the Marines just love installing a screw with too long of a shank, thus trying to thread the smooth shank of screws... We use the paste trick at work on a daily basis.

Grab-it screw extractors have yet to work for anything that i have tried. Yes, i did buy the set.
Now W-A-Y far and above all extractor sets are the ones sold by Snap-On (Did i mention, i am no fan of snap-on!) but, this works! $150 for the set! The other that is the same set is from Rigid, its just south of $100. For those who are serious!

I bit pricy since the shipping wasn’t free. Bought it nonetheless, thanks for the link.
 

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I bit pricy since the shipping wasn’t free. Bought it nonetheless, thanks for the link.
Shake up the bottle really well before applying a drop. (a single drop is all you need for 3 to 5 screws). The stuff inside separates sitting on the shelf. Its kind of like sand and oil mix.

But like i said earlier, a dab of gritty cleanser mixed to a gritty paste will do the same job, in a pinch.
 
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Don't need an "extractor if you drill them. They will come out with your fingers. Unless someone used "gasp" thread Locke on them. :(
My favorite is lefty drills! Add a lot of pressure with slow rpm, usually pulls the screw before getting through the head of the screw. FUN (y) BUT they will provide you with a new vocabulary if and when they break! :mad:

I managed to shear off a # 5-44 screw in a gun barrel...The lefty saved the day! Put it on the mill, turning left and as slow as i could get the spindle to run.. NERVWRACKING!
That screw was for the underlug. On a .68 Cal. Flintlock pistol. Yes it was held in with a locking paste of some sort. Made in Italy.
 
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