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That's cool. I was thinking of putting all braided black lines in, and switch the black controls for chrome. I've notice just about every single black master cylinder has paint chipping off it, and chrome just doesn't do that. I also heard due to a design difference, the chrome ones don't leak as easily as the painted versions.
Braided lines will look much better than the stock lines , I put the chrome control covers on , the chrome clutch and brake masters are kinda pricey though , add the lines and your pushing 1K just in parts , not including bars, and labor.
 

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I'm sure we can work something out.

If bled correctly, when the brake cable is installed, the trip to the dealer isn't a REQUIREMENT. They can pulse the ABS module with Digital Technician and make sure there is zero air in your system.
Thanks i would look forward to that. I checked with the parts guy at the dealer and he says I will need new cables.
 

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Duce, I'd like to try a set of 10" on my 2016 FLHTK. I'very never ridden with apes so I'll have to ride a Brothers bike to see how it feels. The comments from other riders is positive. I'm going to use YouTube for instructions on the installation should I get a set.
 

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I will check my dealer to see what the cost is. I'm looking at a pair of Khrome Workz 10" apes so there would be no need to change out anything. I wouldn't think it be no more than a 2 hour job tops. At a labor rate of $100 that would be $200. I'm not cheap but it wouldn't be worth any more than that to me. My bike is brand new so I would be weary of DYIing this project. If my bike was 5 y.o. I wouldn't think twice about it.
 

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Duce, I'd like to try a set of 10" on my 2016 FLHTK. I'very never ridden with apes so I'll have to ride a Brothers bike to see how it feels. The comments from other riders is positive. I'm going to use YouTube for instructions on the installation should I get a set.
Sorry I missed this post till just now.

I will check my dealer to see what the cost is. I'm looking at a pair of Khrome Workz 10" apes so there would be no need to change out anything. I wouldn't think it be no more than a 2 hour job tops. At a labor rate of $100 that would be $200. I'm not cheap but it wouldn't be worth any more than that to me. My bike is brand new so I would be weary of DYIing this project. If my bike was 5 y.o. I wouldn't think twice about it.
Here's how I look at it , there going to take the same stuff apart to do the job that you will, if your confident in your wrenching skills , new old doesn't really matter , nobody cares like an owner , you will likely be more careful and exacting than the dealer tech. 10" bars is just bolt on stuff and a little re routing , running wires through the bars is probable the most challenging part of the job.

Also keep in mind dealer shops charge book time , not actual time.
 

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Dealer quoted me $1200 for my 05 Dyna.....

So I did then myself for about $250. My bars cost me $100ish and $140ish for Burly extended cables and wires. I put on 14's from my stock 8's and I'm 5'8" with a 30" inseam.
 

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Yup, I've always been told $1200.00 on a Ultra! Which is why I've declined putting them on. IF I every buy another one it will be done before it leaves the dealer.......
 

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I had 16s put on my limited this spring new braided cables and bars at Indy shop 1200 that's with new everything controls and master cylinder.
could have saved some money doing it my self of I had time or place to work on bikes while out of town.
I had 16 put on my side car hack few years back cost more at Harley dealer 100_5902.JPG

100_5904.JPG
 

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I have no wrenching ability and I have tons of money so I bought the full kit from Hill County Customs...$1200 for 16" bars with all wires, cables and controls. Paid my Indy $240 to install.

Then I went to ES and Stangs and a few other guys help me set them up correctly!
 

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Stock 06 RKC bars to HD RK Easy Reach...so no cable changes, no fairing to mess with, and all external cables. Not complicated.

Picked up the bars at the dealer. Figured let me see what they would get to put them on while Im here....walk into service to ask....Dealer here in Lewiston quoted me labor of 6 hours x $100. Walked out more educated about this dealer.

Really ? 6 hours labor for a factory tech to do a straight swap on a fairingless RK and no cable changes ?
I will do it myself....and be leary of doing more business there.
 

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Out for a ride today. Stopped in to a large indy (3 mechanics) near my work that the prior owner always used/recommended for his Harleys.

He is now swapping the bars next week. Quoted 2 hours X $55....so long as the cables/wires dont need mods...which on the Easy Reach they dont. Man these stock RK bars wreck my neck/shoulders after 100 miles....cant wait to change.

Glad I stopped. Ready didnt want to do it myself and now I wont ! He has a new customer. I will never got back to that HD dealer that quoted my 6 hours ever....unless I HAVE to.
 

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So I got a $1200 to $1400 tp install some 10” Paul Yaffe’’s . SoI decided to do it myself. It was hard . First take it all apart was not to bad. Then after hours of going back and forth to utube I decided to cut the wire . I went to Lowes bought 15 feet of 20 or 22 gage 4 strand wire. I strip of all the rubber casing on my control and throttle twist cable because no matter what I did I couldn’t get the cables around the shrap corners on the top of the bars. I inserted throttle cable into the bar and out the hole where the control cable taped them together tightly with electrical tape . But first I dropped a string with a nut tied to it . One the string was through I tied the string to a bicycle brake cable and pulled it through. I tapedthe bicycle cable to the two throttle and control cable almost 3/4 of the way. I sprayed some lubricant into the bars and pulled them through. Every easy.

I spliced the wires together extending the wire and splicing the plug end to the wire from Lowes . I Soldered and used shrink wrap on all my connections.thats 6 for the throttle, 4 for the left control, 2 for the heated grip, and 1 wire I have no idea. So the was
 
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