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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a how to on how to take off the primary cover.

This allows you to replace the clutch (not shown in the tutorial), the primary gasket, the shift shaft seal, the clutch cable, the clutch cable seal, the primary chain tensioner and really anything that is under the primary cover. I did not need to service the clutch in any way so unfortunately you will not see that apart in this tutorial. That being said, I have helped take one off so if you PM me I may be able to assist. I'm not the best resource on that though I would reccommend you post to the forum, use the search function, or PM a smarter member for that info.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Tools you will need:
Inch Pound Torque wrench
3/8in drive ratchet
Hex head sockets in the pictured sizes (not allen wrenches)
Torx sockets as pictured
IMG_20131129_171233_365.jpg

1. Mid controls: Remove the shifter arm bolt as pictured taking the allen screw all the way out then pulling the lever off. You may want to mark the location it was on so that you can match it up on re installation but if you slide it on and sit on the bike you will know right away if it is a tooth off or not. Just personal preference on where you place it.
IMG_20131129_130350_260.jpg

2. Forward controls: Remove the shift linkage in basically the same fashion as above.
IMG_20131129_130355_928.jpg
3. The whole reason I am doing this is because of that massive leak!
IMG_20131129_130511_708.jpg
4. Take one or both of the footpeg bolts out if you have mid pegs. Disregard this if you have forward controls.
IMG_20131129_130717_947.jpg

5. Remove the primary inspection cover with the two screws. Be careful not to loose any of the three oil seals. One for each bolt and a big one on the back of the cover.
IMG_20131129_131142_547.jpg

6. Take all of the derby cover bolts off. Yea…mine is so scratched up from my boots, salt, dirt, snow, rain…you name it.
IMG_20131129_131332_564.jpg

7-8. Take the clutch adjustment spring out
IMG_20131129_131344_661.jpg
IMG_20131129_131405_536.jpg

9. Look along the frame rail above the oil filter for the clutch cable adjuster
IMG_20131129_131428_054.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
10. Slide the rubber off the adjustment shaft off… (let me save Chief Illiniwek some work “Xl1200R said rubber and shaft ahahahah”) anyways… then “tighten” the cable. I put that in quotes because we are really loosening the cable but the treads will disappear when it loosens making it look like you tightened it. Just turn the damn thing clockwise for god sakes!
IMG_20131129_131428_054.jpg

11. Now screw in the little flathead screw on the clutch ball and ramp assembly. Screwing it in(clockwise) will again actually loosen it up.
IMG_20131129_131938_876.jpg

12. Pull it out
IMG_20131129_132043_825.jpg

13. Turn the ball and ramp assembly (under my thumb) 90 degrees from where it is in the picture to free it from the clutch cable.
IMG_20131129_132053_201.jpg

14. Start unscrewing the primary cover. It will stick to the engine case don’t free it yet. NOTE: there are two little alignment stud things. They are barrel shaped and are guide sleeves for when you put the new gasket on DON’T LOOSE THEM
IMG_20131129_132352_224.jpg

15. Under the clutch lever there is a little C-clip that holds the clutch on its pivot point. Take it out and slide the pin up and out freeing the clutch lever from the assembly.
IMG_20131129_133332_358.jpg
IMG_20131129_133342_502.jpg

16. Break the case free. To do this I used a rubber mallet. Don’t hit it with anything other than your hands or rubber mallet or you will just break stuff. Also, just tap on it you don’t need to kill it. It’s only head on at this point by the gasket being stuck to the engine case and the cover.
IMG_20131129_135742_745.jpg

17. Where I am pointing is where one of the little sleeve things I was talking about goes. It is a noticeably larger hole than the bolt holes so it isn’t too hard to tell.
IMG_20131129_154206_560.jpg

Reassemble in reverse. The torque spec for the Primary cover is 100-120 inch pounds. Follow that pattern when tightening the bolts.
Capture4.PNG


Once you take it all off it is pretty easy to see how stuff goes back on. Be careful lining up the gasket with the primary cover. It isn’t too hard. I would replace the shift shaft seal and the clutch cable seal no matter what because they are cheap but take all tat work to get to!! Lastly, you can technically use a pick and get the shift shaft seal out. There is nothing holding it in from the inside. Problem is, I don’t think you will get the new one installed correctly so you will not ever help the problem. Could be worth a try though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am adding this post so that I can post more pictures that I think I may have tomorrow. It is late I will finish this when I am less tired as it is filled with crappy grammar and stuff now thanks to my weariness.
 

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Hit it she goes boom
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Great post XL1200.. I don't know if you want to add this or not, but on the shifter, removing the bolt completely is necessary.. it will keep you from trying to slide off the shifter with a pry bar and scratching the beejeezus out of your cover.... don't ask....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great post XL1200.. I don't know if you want to add this or not, but on the shifter, removing the bolt completely is necessary.. it will keep you from trying to slide off the shifter with a pry bar and scratching the beejeezus out of your cover.... don't ask....
I already mentioned that but apparently it was easy to skip over so I bolded it in hopes someone won't miss it. Thanks for the tip!
 

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I already mentioned that but apparently it was easy to skip over so I bolded it in hopes someone won't miss it. Thanks for the tip!
Yeah the shop manual was very clear about it too, and yet I just had to try a short cut..:banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah the shop manual was very clear about it too, and yet I just had to try a short cut..:banghead
Been there done that. If you didn't break anything its ok though!

If you did that means you really learned a lesson!
 

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Thanks! Big help and very informative! I did hit a snag though.
When I reassembled everything the clutch ball and ramp assembly set a bit deeper and the second lock-nut wont make contact now, any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks! Big help and very informative! I did hit a snag though.
When I reassembled everything the clutch ball and ramp assembly set a bit deeper and the second lock-nut wont make contact now, any ideas?
Can you explain this a little more in depth? Maybe some pictures? Do you mean the lock nut on the clutch cable? There is no lock not on the primary side... Unless your talking about a pre-2004 Sportster in which case it could be different than mine.



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It's ironic this thread is a sticky as I signed up to the forums specifically to get some mechanical advice involving this area.

I recently removed my primary cover to replace the gasket and clutch cable seal. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but my limits do know bounds indeed. After a bunch of cussing and a little stripping of bolt heads :mad I got everything put back together only to discover that the bike wouldn't go into gear. It is harder to roll when shifted into gear, but it definitely isn't fully engaging. I re-drained the fluid and pulled everything apart only to see no obvious problem. I'm sure it's something simple but I'm even simpler. Any advice?

Thanks,
Max
 

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here you go

Remove the left side footpeg. See the Footpeg topic for more information.

Removal


Set an appropriate oil drain pan under the transmission oil drain plug at the rear of the primary cover. Remove the transmission oil drain plug with a 5/8 in socket to drain it.


The transmission oil drain plug is magnetic. Inspect the magnet for any metal pick up. Clean off the drain plug and discard its old O-ring.




Remove the shift lever bolt with a 1/4 in. Allen.


Remove the shift lever and rubber washer.


Wipe down the area around the clutch inspection cover to prevent debris from getting inside the primary cover.


Slide the rubber boot down the clutch cable. Turn the clutch cable adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench. Hold the adjuster in place and loosen the locknut against it with a 9/16 inch wrench. Loosen the clutch cable until there is plenty of slack.


Remove the six clutch inspection cover screws with a T-27 torx socket.


Loosen the primary drive chain adjuster locknut with 7/8 in wrench.


Take off the clutch inspection cover. Do not disturb the seal ring on the primary cover unless it needs replacement.


Remove the spring and lock plate from the clutch adjuster.


Remove the clutch cable.


Turn the adjusting screw clockwise, with a flat blade screwdriver, to remove the ramp assembly.

Note: The ramp assembly is held together with a retaining ring. It is comprised of an inner and outer ramp, and three ball bearings. It has a coupling to hold the clutch cable and a nut to secure it to the adjusting screw.


Remove the clutch cable fitting and O-ring from the case with a wrench. Discard the O-ring.


Loosen the sixteen case cover screws and washers in a criss-cross pattern with a 3/16 in. Allen and remove them. Note the position of the screws for assembly.


Remove the primary cover. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the cover off if needed.


Inspect the shift shaft oil seal for wear and damage.


Remove the gasket and discard.


Remove the two dowel pins from both ends of the case.

Primary Chain Adjuster


Remove the primary chain adjuster locknut under the case with a 7/8 in. wrench. Hold the adjuster screw with a 1/4 in. Allen if necessary.


Remove the primary chain adjuster assembly by unthreading the adjuster screw.


Slide the shoe off and inspect it for excessive wear or damage. Replace the shoe if needed.

To remove the primary drive and clutch see the Primary Drive and Clutch topic for more information.

Installation
Primary Chain Adjuster


Slide the open end of the shoe onto the primary chain adjuster slot.


Install the primary chain adjuster screw into the case with the open end of the assembly facing out. Thread the screw all the way into the case. The primary chain may need to be lifted out of the way to insert the adjuster in place.


Install the locknut onto the adjuster screw. Hold the adjuster screw with a 1/4 in. Allen and screw on the nut with a with a 7/8 in. wrench. Do not tighten.

Primary Case Cover

Clean the mating surfaces and remove any gasket residue.


Install the two dowel pins into both ends of the case.


Install a new primary case gasket.


Install a new shifter shaft oil seal into the case cover if needed.


Install the primary case cover.


Primary cover tightening sequence.


Install the sixteen case cover screws and washers in sequence with a 3/16 in. Allen and tighten to specification.

(Primary Case Cover Screw Torque: 100 - 120 in-lbs or 11.3 - 13.5 N-m)


Install the clutch cable and a new O-ring into the primary case with a wrench. The cable end should be visible inside the case. Tighten the clutch fitting to specification.

(Clutch Cable Fitting Torque: 30 - 60 in-lbs or 4.1 - 6.8 N-m)


Insert a new O-ring on the transmission drain plug. Install and tighten the plug to specification with a 5/8 in socket.

(Transmission Oil Drain Plug Torque: 14 - 30 lb-ft or 19.0 - 40.7 N-m)

Fill the transmission with Harley-Davidson Sport Trans Fluid. See the Transmission Oil topic for more information


The retaining ring side of the ramp assembly should face inward and the coupling should point forward. Align the upper tab on the ramp assembly with the case cover slot. Install the ramp assembly with the nut.


Thread the nut onto the adjusting screw. Tighten the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is met, then back off the screw a 1/4 of a turn.


Install the spring and lock plate onto the ramp.


Install the clutch cable end onto the ramp coupling.


Install the clutch inspection cover. Do not disturb the seal ring on the primary cover unless it was removed, then install a new one.


Install the six clutch inspection cover screws with a T-27 torx socket and tighten to specification. Tighten the screws a little bit at a time in a crisscross pattern.

(Clutch Inspection Cover Screw Torque: 84 - 108 in-lbs or 9.5 - 12.2 N-m)


Install the shift lever and rubber washer.


Install the shift lever bolt with a 1/4 in. Allen and tighten to specification.

Adjust the clutch cable. See the Clutch Cable Adjustment topic for more information.

Adjust the primary drive chain. See the Primary Drive Chain topic for more information.

Install the battery cable onto the crankcase. See the Battery Cable Removal for more information.

Install the left side footpeg. See the Footpeg topic for more information.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's ironic this thread is a sticky as I signed up to the forums specifically to get some mechanical advice involving this area.

I recently removed my primary cover to replace the gasket and clutch cable seal. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but my limits do know bounds indeed. After a bunch of cussing and a little stripping of bolt heads :mad I got everything put back together only to discover that the bike wouldn't go into gear. It is harder to roll when shifted into gear, but it definitely isn't fully engaging. I re-drained the fluid and pulled everything apart only to see no obvious problem. I'm sure it's something simple but I'm even simpler. Any advice?

Thanks,
Max
Sounds to me like the clutch is out of adjustment.

When you adjust it make sure you fully loosen the cable end and then follow the directions carefully.

I'm a little confused as to exactly what's happening. So when you put it into gear with the bike off and clutch engaged you can still roll it but it is harder than when it is in neutral correct?

So saying the clutch isn't fully engaging?
 

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Sounds to me like the clutch is out of adjustment.

When you adjust it make sure you fully loosen the cable end and then follow the directions carefully.
That's pretty much what it was. I think I was having a problem getting it adjusted properly because the cable is almost shot. I had to adjust it almost off the threads just to get it to work right. Now I'm gonna have to tear it all apart again. Oh well.

Thanks for the help bro.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No problem. Glad you've figured it out.

For what it's worth when my clutch spring plate started to go it got very hard to adjust. the clutch did not want to fully disengage..which is the opposite of your problem but u figured I'd throw it out there.
 
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