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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Wingnut says he has a spare headpipe if one of us needs it. I say cool. He says......but it needs to be fixed. Generally they crack at the Y. This one has a vertical crack on the lateral side. Typical of twisting touring pipes off.....
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Clean area good. Wingnut did that...... Drill a small hole at each end of crack.

Make a cover plate and index.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Once indexed, mark. Make a repair plate. 12-14 gauge steel. Clamp and tack. Stitch weld and shape to form.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Start to grind and smooth welds.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Discussion Starter #5
And paint.
 

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Addicted Since 2010
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What kinda welding setup did you use for it? I'm by no means an expert but I would recommend to anyone tig or mig with. 023 wire would probably work best without blowing holes through it... Mig with. 030 may work as well if your careful.

Does the added thickness of the plate interfere with any heat shields or anything though? I can't think of how the touring bikes setup is off the top of my head.

Oh and it's not very nice calling a fellow forum member a wing nut. Lol
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Discussion Starter #8
Lincoln sp-100t, 25-100 amp range, 75% argon, 15-17 lbs duty gas psi, .025 wire. I use thinner wire and run the speed faster. Keeps me from creating too much distortion and heat. I've used .o30 but seems to need more heat. Burn too many holes.

No thickness issue. Shields hide it.

I'm probably less of a welder than you.......
 

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Wow, and I can see this will cost me more than a breakfast!
I'm real glad I have a friend who welds on occasion.
Thanks Dave63! And very nice job on the step by step photos. I know anything is better than the $200 the dealers get for a new pipe.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Discussion Starter #10
Payback for your GPS skills......:D
 

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Addicted Since 2010
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Lincoln sp-100t, 25-100 amp range, 75% argon, 15-17 lbs duty gas psi, .025 wire. I use thinner wire and run the speed faster. Keeps me from creating too much distortion and heat. I've used .o30 but seems to need more heat. Burn too many holes.

No thickness issue. Shields hide it.

I'm probably less of a welder than you.......
Makes sense to me.

You know how the saying goes, "I'm a grinder, not a welder". Anyone can weld with enough grinding discs to make it look good! At least this is what I tell myself!
 

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That pipe won't crack there again! That is a first class job of fixing that (or any other) crack. Kudo's on the step by step. :thumbsup
 

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After tacking how do you bend it. Torch? Big Hammer?
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Discussion Starter #15
After tacking how do you bend it. Torch? Big Hammer?
Small, ball peen. Work it slow. If it sticks up, c-clamp it down. Take your time. Stitch one part at a time.
 

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Small, ball peen. Work it slow. If it sticks up, c-clamp it down. Take your time. Stitch one part at a time.
With a stress crack like that, have you ever just welded it up. ??
Or did it just re-crack in the same area ?


:coffee:
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Discussion Starter #17
A crack will never occur in a weld. It will occur on the sides of the weld where metal molecules are changed due to heat. This is why TIG is better. Less heat......

So.....if I welded the crack, it would crack 1/4" above or below the weld. Hence the plate in the lower stress areas.
 

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Gypsy on Parade
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A crack will never occur in a weld. It will occur on the sides of the weld where metal molecules are changed due to heat. This is why TIG is better. Less heat......

So.....if I welded the crack, it would crack 1/4" above or below the weld. Hence the plate in the lower stress areas.

I like the plate idea, but... I think you did the most good when you drilled the ends to stop the crack. I would have beveled the sides after that and just welded it up then grind smooth.

The plate is good insurance!



Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Discussion Starter #19
I like the plate idea, but... I think you did the most good when you drilled the ends to stop the crack. I would have beveled the sides after that and just welded it up then grind smooth.

The plate is good insurance!



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Pipe is too thin IMHO to bevel and MIG. Not dealing with a 1/8" thick pipe.
 
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