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Discussion Starter #1
My son has 17 street glide with hydralic clutch which started slipping bad last night, what is everyone replacing them with. One man I know went with Barnett but said its awful grabby. Im listening for some good suggestions.
 

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Why replace it, sounds like it needs service. I was skeptical of hydraulic when I got mine but after getting used to it I really like it.
 

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Retired citizen
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Just like the brakes, change fluid every 2 years and bleed the master cylinder. I doubt that would solve the slippage problem tho. If it needs to be done I would try that first before changing out the frictions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bike only has 7000 miles on it and we change fluids often, more than needed with redline primary, trans, and engine oil. I don't think there are adjustments on hyd clutch. My boys, friend said he used barrnett and its grabby I didn't really want that, thought the pros here would no.
 

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weird member
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Bike only has 7000 miles on it and we change fluids often, more than needed with redline primary, trans, and engine oil. I don't think there are adjustments on hyd clutch. My boys, friend said he used barrnett and its grabby I didn't really want that, thought the pros here would no.
Best I can tell having never worked on a hydraulic clutch before (but understanding hydraulics), the pros here already gave you a starting point.

Make sure the clutch adjustment is correct. Lightly seat the adjuster screw on the clutch, back out however many turns the manual says, lock it down.

You would think if there was air or gas in the hydraulic clutch line, that the issue would be drag (not getting a full release) rather than slip (not getting enough grip).

If the adjuster screw on the clutch basket is too far in, you risk slip, too far out and you risk drag.

If the bike has only 7,000 miles, there could be an issue with the clutch if adjusting the clutch basket doesn't fix it.

While you're in there, inspect the spring and clutch basket (which, should be fine, it's not that old or that high mileage).

Start with the simple stuff first before just spending money on replacing something that may not even be broken and just needs a simple adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My son is 25 and rides hard, does lots of burn outs, Im putting new clutch in it just wondering what everyone is using? Nothing has been opened so there shouldn't be air in system, primary was never off, but it does get serviced more then needed.
 

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Hit it she goes boom
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Just make sure the line for the clutch is away from heat. If the line is too close to the engine it will heat up and expand the clutch, making it slip.
 

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Hit it she goes boom
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Discussion Starter #12
Looks like screaming eagle has clutch parts for 229. with springs we will probably use them unless someone convinces me different.
 

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weird member
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Well, I mean, did you even try to readjust it yet?

If it still slips when properly adjusted, a new, heavier spring won't help much if the plates/disks are worn out. The heavier spring will help prevent slip on a higher than stock torque engine, though it won't hurt to put it on a stock or mild built engine, but it's not the solution.

You gotta figure out what the problem is before you just start throwing parts at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Theres no adjustment on hyd clutches so that pretty well narrows it down. Screaming eagle kit includes extra plates and new springs. I was hoping EVORK or hillside would jump in.
 

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So the clutch basket itself doesn't have a release plate with an adjuster in it? So does the hydraulics go all the way from the perch to inside of the clutch, no rod from the right side?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I didnt tear it apart but its not like cable operated, you remove pressure plate, then disc and reinstall. part number from Harley is Part Number 37000287 There is no adjusting.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Anybody using any clutches other then stock hydralic, Lets here whats available out there.
 

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old scoot coot
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there was a safety recall on the 17 models requiring a rebuild of the clutch slave cylinder. they call it the secondary actuater. has that been complied with?
 

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DUDE!, You get PROFESSIONAL answers from PRO Mechanics in within the first 4 replies...All SAYING THE SAME THING! YOUR KID HAS YOU BUFFALOED INTO BUYING A NAME BRAND BAD ASS PART.

BTW: Hydraulically operated clutches DO HAVE ADJUSTMENTS! Not on the line (like a cable clutch) But in the primary cover... The line (hose) runs from the leaver at the handlebar down to a slave cylinder on the right hand side of the motor.. Just behind the engine and that rectangle box (usually chromed) just inboard of where the exhaust pipes come together. That is the clutch slave cylinder cover. A rod passes through to the center of the clutch (Primary side). At the end of the rod is the adjustment. That nut with a standard screw in the center...That sir is the adjuster... Cable operated clutches utilize a similar adjustment at this same point..The cable just enters from opposite sides of the motorcycle.
 

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