07 flhr, SE255 cam, 50,000 total miles on bike...I have a set of S&S standard lifters in it with bout 30,000 miles on them..they are adjusted bottomed out and backed off 2 or 3 flats cold...when I start the bike cold I get a little lifter rattle and around 1500 to 3000 rpm as I take off going through the gears it's a bit more louder.. after about 1 mile (as bike is a little warm) they are quiet...at any speed any rpm, wondering if thats a sign of wear and time to replace ???
Lifter life
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2-3 flats from bottomed out is part of the problem, adjustment has way too much preload. You're only supposed to adjust them like that if they have travel limiters.
The documentation for your lifters should say what the plunger travel is, though usually it's .200" for standard lifters. You're supposed to preload them about half way (.090 to .110"). How many turns that takes depends on the TPI of the adjustable pushrods.
Proper adjustment for full-travel lifters is to have the pushrods collapsed and extend them out until they just touch the lifter cup, then turn them the required number of flats to reach about .100" preload. This is usually somewhere between 2.5 and 3.5 full turns (or 20-24 flats). Again, how many depends on the TPI of the pushrods. And you do this with the cylinder you're adjusting at TDCC so that the lifters are at their lowest position (on the cam lobe base circle). Once adjusted, you may need to wait 10-30 minutes for lifters to bleed down and check that the pushrods can be spun by hand before rotating the engine to adjust the other cylinder.
Instruction sheets from S&S have the proper procedure listed as well as the proper number of flats by various TPIs (you just have to look up what the TPI is of the pushrods you're using).
The documentation for your lifters should say what the plunger travel is, though usually it's .200" for standard lifters. You're supposed to preload them about half way (.090 to .110"). How many turns that takes depends on the TPI of the adjustable pushrods.
Proper adjustment for full-travel lifters is to have the pushrods collapsed and extend them out until they just touch the lifter cup, then turn them the required number of flats to reach about .100" preload. This is usually somewhere between 2.5 and 3.5 full turns (or 20-24 flats). Again, how many depends on the TPI of the pushrods. And you do this with the cylinder you're adjusting at TDCC so that the lifters are at their lowest position (on the cam lobe base circle). Once adjusted, you may need to wait 10-30 minutes for lifters to bleed down and check that the pushrods can be spun by hand before rotating the engine to adjust the other cylinder.
Instruction sheets from S&S have the proper procedure listed as well as the proper number of flats by various TPIs (you just have to look up what the TPI is of the pushrods you're using).
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24,998 Posts
Gotta ask. Where did you get those instructions from!
I don't know the specs of that cam, but lifters in good condition shouldn't make too much noise for very long. Maybe a few seconds at start up if you have an aggressive cam.
A high lift cam is going to cause valvetrain noise in general, which isn't necessarily or entirely from the lifters. For aggressive cams, I like the slow bleed lifters. S&S doesn't make slow bleeds anymore, their performance lifters are travel limited standard bleed lifters (which will be noisier). Johnson and Feuling still make slow bleed lifters. Slow bleeds aren't preferred for what are considered "bolt-in" cams (as opposed to high lift). Slow bleed or standard is dependant on valve spring pressure, which depends on the lift of the cam.
An aggressive or high lift cam, they usually recommend to upgrade the oil pump to a high volume one, especially with performance lifters.
A high lift cam is going to cause valvetrain noise in general, which isn't necessarily or entirely from the lifters. For aggressive cams, I like the slow bleed lifters. S&S doesn't make slow bleeds anymore, their performance lifters are travel limited standard bleed lifters (which will be noisier). Johnson and Feuling still make slow bleed lifters. Slow bleeds aren't preferred for what are considered "bolt-in" cams (as opposed to high lift). Slow bleed or standard is dependant on valve spring pressure, which depends on the lift of the cam.
An aggressive or high lift cam, they usually recommend to upgrade the oil pump to a high volume one, especially with performance lifters.
this cam is the harley screamin eagle 255, the next cam up from stock, bolt in...low end torque is quite noticeable from stock, really like it, these lifters always rattled some when cold especially from
off idle to 3000rpm and literly after 1mile there quiet at any rpm all day long.. I was thinking maybe wear in lifter bores since a little heat seems to quiet it down, but bike only has 50,000 miles on it and very seldom take it up to or over 4000 rpm..not real concerned but just dont seem right..thanks for the reply..
off idle to 3000rpm and literly after 1mile there quiet at any rpm all day long.. I was thinking maybe wear in lifter bores since a little heat seems to quiet it down, but bike only has 50,000 miles on it and very seldom take it up to or over 4000 rpm..not real concerned but just dont seem right..thanks for the reply..
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24,998 Posts
What oil and wt.?
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24,998 Posts
Was just curious.
Reduced noise after warm up usually equals proper oil pressure and full engine circulation.
Lifters properly filling after bleeding down with the engine off.
At least that's pretty much what I was taught.
FWIW. My truck was bought with fossil/synthetic blend being run in it.
On my first oil change I went full Mobil 1 full syn for high mileage engines. Using GM's recommended weight.
The valve train does seem a bit noisier. Even after warm up.
Reduced noise after warm up usually equals proper oil pressure and full engine circulation.
Lifters properly filling after bleeding down with the engine off.
At least that's pretty much what I was taught.
FWIW. My truck was bought with fossil/synthetic blend being run in it.
On my first oil change I went full Mobil 1 full syn for high mileage engines. Using GM's recommended weight.
The valve train does seem a bit noisier. Even after warm up.
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