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Friend of Al Swiners
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Discussion Starter #1
I rebuilt my 1997 FLSTC 6k miles ago and have now found that my motor oil is filling my primary. When doing the first primary oil change, I measured nearly 3qt from the primary. Wondered where my motor oil was going <VBG>. I could blame the guy that rebuilt my lower end but that doesn't change anything, the seal leaks like a seive and I will be the one fixing it. I lost a quart of motor oil the first 100 miles after the recent motor & primary oil change and another half a quart after after topping off. Nothing drops and no smoke. Runs fine but has expected difficulty finding neutral and dropping into 1st gear.

My question is this:
After removing the chain, clutch, stator, etc.,... How easy is it to remove/replace the main sprocket oil seal (#12026B) without pulling the motor or splitting the crankcase? In other words, removing/replacing the seal with the main shaft in place?

FWIW, I have a seal removal tool, but hesitate to buy the JIM's Seal Installer $$$$ unless it is a must. My bigger concern is cleanly removing the seal. Any tips, photos, suggestions, etc. would be appreciated.
 

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Nitrous Rules
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31 Posts
I rebuilt my 1997 FLSTC 6k miles ago and have now found that my motor oil is filling my primary. When doing the first primary oil change, I measured nearly 3qt from the primary. Wondered where my motor oil was going <VBG>. I could blame the guy that rebuilt my lower end but that doesn't change anything, the seal leaks like a seive and I will be the one fixing it. I lost a quart of motor oil the first 100 miles after the recent motor & primary oil change and another half a quart after after topping off. Nothing drops and no smoke. Runs fine but has expected difficulty finding neutral and dropping into 1st gear.

My question is this:
After removing the chain, clutch, stator, etc.,... How easy is it to remove/replace the main sprocket oil seal (#12026B) without pulling the motor or splitting the crankcase? In other words, removing/replacing the seal with the main shaft in place?

FWIW, I have a seal removal tool, but hesitate to buy the JIM's Seal Installer $$$$ unless it is a must. My bigger concern is cleanly removing the seal. Any tips, photos, suggestions, etc. would be appreciated.


That seal is relitively easy once you have the stator removed.
You should be able to remove and replace the seal without the special tool.
Good luck. :)
 

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Everything I try to fix turns to crap so here's my 2¢.
Taking the other crap off is the hard part.
It might be slightly aggrevating because you can't get the puller claws between the shaft & seal. You might have to dig & worry it out with a small L pick or hook, or it might simply fall out. Take your time & be VERY careful not to bump & mar the shaft.
Biggest thing is keep the new seal straight & level, lip facing out & don't let it get crooked going into the case. Thus the seal driver, you can make one from a piece of pipe and/or fittings. Take your verynear caliper to Home Depot and check the i.d.'s of 1' & 1-1/4 pvc pipe & fittings & get something that matches the shaft o.d. & seal size.
$10 vs the $100 seal driver & no bodged seal.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Take your time & be VERY careful not to bump & mar the shaft.
Cover shaft with blue painter's tape.

Remove before reinstalling compensating sprocket.

Note: There are new torque specs for the compensating sprocket. It used to be to torque to 165 ft/lbs with 2 drops of Locktite red.

Now it's been changed, Per HD.....the 150/165 range for tc88s has been revised to a torque/turn method. 75 ft/lbs then an additional 45-50 degree turn.

I know i beat this drum a lot, but you'd really benefit from a proper shop manual for the model bike you have.
 

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Friend of Al Swiners
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178 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. I've got the shop manual but it shows the crankcase removed from the frame and no crankshaft (not real world). I have previously pulled and rebuilt everything but the bottom end (took to local shop) and then put everything back together in the past so pulling the everthing in the primary is deja vu. I just don't recall the seal since this was part of the lower end I contracted out. If I remember correctly, I had to use an air hammer in order to remove the compensating sprocket nut, right?

I like the PVC idea and am also thinking about drilling/scroll-sawing out a hole in a piece of 3/4inch plywood to interface the seal over the shaft before using the PVC pusher.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Compensating sprocket can be taken off with an airwrench/Impact gun.

It's RIGHTHAND (normal) thread.

Clutch hub retaining nut is LEFTHAND thread (reversed- left tight, right loose).
 

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Friend of Al Swiners
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178 Posts
Discussion Starter #7

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Nitrous Rules
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31 Posts

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Friend of Al Swiners
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178 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The stator has never failed so I got lucky there. Just added the extra silicon insulation on the lead wires and reinstalled. I added Loktite to the old stator bolts and reused them even though the manual says to "always" use new Torx. Is that be an issue?
 

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Nitrous Rules
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31 Posts
The stator has never failed so I got lucky there. Just added the extra silicon insulation on the lead wires and reinstalled. I added Loktite to the old stator bolts and reused them even though the manual says to "always" use new Torx. Is that be an issue?
It should work just fine.
 

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Friend of Al Swiners
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178 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, I'm up to +800mi. on the post primary sprocket oil seal replacement(Loktite fix) and all is well thus far. :thumb

My mileage has increased from 32mpg up to ~44mpg since the primary is no longer flooded. No complaints here! I'll take a $4 fix over a +$1500 rebuild anytime! :cheers:
 

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Wow! Thats a hell of a difference!
 

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Friend of Al Swiners
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178 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well folks, I got a total of about 12,000miles out of Red Loktiting the left Main Oil Seal in place back in March of 2009. It finally failed to hold, cocked at an angle within the augered out housing, and started filling the primary with motor oil:



I have pulled the motor this time and taken the bottom end to my mechanic. He thinks, tentatively, that he may be able to install some headless setscrews through the housing and below the stator, in order to hold the seal in place permanently this time. Remember that the oil seal housing is now very loosely fitting the seal since the last seal failing to hold. The crankcases have just over 100,000mi. on them.

Any thoughts on using the "setscrew" fix? This would save me from buying a new entire crankcase ($905 part, out the door), and another complete bottom end rebuild charge with new new bearing and bushings, etc. Won't know all the detail for another week or so...
 
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