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Hey all wanted to give my review of the burly slammer kit I installed this weekend. This is my first post so I wanted to post about this since I've read so many questions and concerns about it. Now this is based on my 2004 Dyna low rider so hopefully this will help some. I had 4 concerns about this kit. 1. Bottoming out 2. Belt guard 3. Turn signal wires in rear fender. 4 riding two up. I didn't even think of any of this until after I ordered it and started reading around them I was like aaaah crap. I bought this kit pretty much for looks and I wasn't worried about a stiff ride. I just saw some issues after I looked over the bike again before the kit arrived. So anyway the next day the kit was at the front door and I was turning wrenches in the garage that evening. As for as difficulty, this kit is pretty much a 2 out of 5 I'd say it's pretty easy to install. If you can read the directions you should be fine. Just make sure you have all the tools first you'll need a socket or wrench 35 mm or 1"3/8 for the fork caps some torx bits for the triple trees I think it was a t45 but you may want to check your bike in particular. And a socket set for the rear. Pretty straight toward. If you need that big of a wrench or socket just hit lowes or tractor supply or Sears. So the rear went on real easy just lift the bike take 2 bolts off of rear shock remove put on the new shock and tighten up! Cake work. Now it was a little rough for me bacause I used a regular floor jack so I had to innovate but got it done. The front, easy as well. Remove what you need to get the fork caps off jack up the front support the bike and remove the fork caps. Wear eye protection and as you unthread the caps so it by hand once you can and watch because the springs will pop a little after the cap is released. A little tension on them but you'll be fine. So for my year bike it said to cut the spacer to 5" . It came as 5 3/4". Since I was worried about bottoming out I left it that long and installed. I had plenty of clearance so I took it back out and instead of cuttin. 3/4" off to make it a 5" spacer I cut only 1/4" to make the spacer 5 1/2". I reinstalled (pull out the old spring put in the new slammer spring helper spring then washer then spacer. Very easy just drop it in) so with only cutting 1/4" off the spacer it was actually perfect. The frame aits perfectly level with the ground and looks lowered and great! Couldn't be happier with the aggressive look. Make sure you cut down the spacer in increments to get your front just right. I wouldn't start with what they recommend because I can see how some bikes may end up to low. But if you want to go that low make sure your frame is level to the ground and you may have to switch to a hd fork oil. I bought some but haven't put it in yet. I got the screaming eagle hd oil.
So with the bike sitting on the ground it looks great. I knew I would have to address some issues though. Turn signals- just went ahead and cut the wires up in the fender and unplugged them so the rear wheel didn't tear them. Left some wire on the turn signals and wound them back on until the laid down easy bracket with chrome cover gets here. I ordered it to relocate the signals to the license plate frame so I can really tuck those wires away from the wheel. I then saw the belt guard was very close to the fender and this was a big concern because I did not want to remove it completely I think it looks great on my bike and really flows the rear end and chrome look. So my first thought....can I cut that thing with a dremmel? So after borrowing a friends I marked the gaurd right where the fender could possibly make contact, used some painters tape and I notched it with a dremmel and cutting wheel. Well 4 cutting wheels. Be careful if you do this,eye protection and even a shield one flew apart and hit me in the face and didn't feel to good. So 4 cutting wheels later I was like damn I did alright! I'll post some pics of it. Reinstalled the gaurd and bam,perfect. I just need some chrome touch up paint for the inside edge so it won't rust from cutting. No one will see where the touch up paint will be anyway. So that turned out great. Next bottoming out and two up. I jumped the front up and down as hard as I could and I felt pretty confident I have about 4-4 1/2 inches of travel up front. The rear-softest setting my 160lbs didn't hardly budge it. Now here's where it got a little hairy. I didn't have time for a test ride bacause we were heading to a bike night the same day and we were short on time so I said come on babe lets go! I'm about 160 she's about 110 give or take so the two of us aren't very heavy. I preloaded the springs as tight as they go and we got on and road off. The bike seemed a tad stiffer but the low is already a stiff ride in my opinion. Didn't seem to bad at all and no bottoming out at all. Just have to watch for road holes and slow down a little more over tracks and turns because I can see how turning can scrape pegs of you really go hard. But all in all it's great! No bottoming out 2 up and that's with the rears set as hard as they go and stock fork oil. I will eventually change it just because I'm sure it's about time. handling felt great, no bottoming out and looks great I'm happy! Burly narrow 12" are going on in a month or two next :) here's some pics thanks everyone. The first picture with the seat off and the yellow extension cord is the only before picture I had prior to the kit installed.
 

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