Harley Davidson Forums banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all,

Went for a ride today, and I have an electrical problem with my 03 Road Glide. Looking for help/input.

Here's the story.....

Needed to go to a Doctor's office on the other side of the County, about 20 miles away, to get a form signed, and then needed to go to Safeway for the little dear. The sun broke out, and it was about 50 out when I was leaving. Great excuse for a ride. Got the map out, and picked some back "roads less traveled" to take me where I was going.

Once under way, the little red light on the speedo (lights up before you start the engine, then goes out when you get fuel pressure) was on. Never noticed that before. Pulled over a mile or two out, shut her down, and looked over everything. All looked good, fired her back up. The light went out, and I continued on my merry way. A few miles later, the light was back on. Should have turned back right then.

Bike was running good, so I continued on. I knew this wasn't the oil pressure light, so I wasn't too worried. The idle was a little high though, normally about 1100 to 1150 rpm, now more like 1400. When I was about 2 miles from my destination, I looked at the voltage gauge. Uh oh, only at about 10.5 volts:eek:. Why did I wait so long to look carefully at all of the gauges??!! Quickly unplugged the electric liner, turned off the spot lights and highbeams.

Knew I couldn't shut off the bike at my destination, so I turned around and headed for home. Kept an eye on the voltage gauge, and it was slowly dropping, 10, 9.5, and on down. The bike was running fine, but I figured it would die at some point. Was praying, Lord just let me get home. Didn't want to have to park the bike, have my wife pick me up, borrow a trailer, find a friend, pick up the bike, etc., etc.

Got closer to home, voltage still dropping, 9, 8.5. Speedo quit working, tach was still OK. More praying, just want to make it home. About two miles out, was running a little sluggish. One mile out, voltage at 8 (bottom), and a little back fire. Up the last hill, and down the last straight to my street. Made the left, and she quit. Coasted about 150 feet, and stopped right at my driveway. No kidding, right where my driveway meets the road. Thank you Lord!

My wife came out and helped me push it up a little hill and into a safe spot.

So, any ideas? Battery, Stator, loose wire?

I did a quick look around, and all looked in order (no loose wires, etc.). Took the battery out, and put it on charge.

In the morning, here's my plan....

Put the battery back in, and start it up (assume it will start with charged battery). Do a running battery voltage. Ride it up to the barn, and get underneath it real good, and check all the wires, connecters, etc. If I find nothing, I'll start with a new battery, and go from there. This battery is 4 years old, and I do not have a trickle charger (will probably get one now). I hope it's the battery, but we'll see.

Any thoughts? Anything else I should do or voltage tests I should run?

Thanks!

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
On a ride
Joined
·
4,996 Posts
What is a good run WITH a charger hooked up most of the time?
I've had bike batteries last two years with a charger on it all the time and batteries last seven years. A Wide Glide battery lasted only two years while my Heritage battery was fine after five years!?! Both on chargers, both carbed, both without security systems, both ridden the same.
 

·
On a ride
Joined
·
4,996 Posts
Doug... Yes, answered prayer. I've had bike batteries crap out before on a ride and the symptoms had some parallels to what you experienced.

But would note this... I had a seven year old Honda XX Blackbird on a ride last summer, and an hour from home had the same exact symptoms you experienced. Voltage started fading, lights started fading/pulsating, lost the tach along the way, sluggish riding 15 minutes from home. Ten minutes from home as I struggled to keep the bike going at a stoplight it died. Dead bike.

Fortunately had a friend riding with me who gave me a lift home to fetch the truck. He was also on a XX Blackbird. Along the way we thought, "Why not try his identical battery in my bike and see what happens". My bike fired right up and all seemed fine the ten minute ride home. I had a fairly new battery in the bike and brought it back thinking I had a defective one. Was given a new one (Nice shop). Shortly after had the bike in for a key service interval and had them check the bike electrics. Bad stator. It was killing the batteries.

So anyway... I'd replace the battery. Need to do this anyway because they're never the same after this kind of experience. And then if there's a way to check the stator I'd do that... just to have the peace of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all,

I'll keep you posted how it turns out.

Ride on ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Please keep us advised on how this goes.

Sounds like what happened to me year before last, turned out to be a bad stator and that caused the battery to discharge just like you described. I was on a 135 mile ride back home and praying all the time that I would get there before it crapped all the way out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
OK. Took the battery out and charged it up. Put it back in and started the bike, and got it up to the barn. Still real low on the volts, 11.5 across the terminals while running. Took the battery out again, and charged it overnight. Was thinking probably the battery. Was going to just buy a new one, and someone suggested taking it to AutoZone for a free Load test. Did that today. The machine said good battery, low charge (whatever that means).

I've read a little more, as I posted this on another forum as well. I'm thinking maybe the stator now. Going to do some more tests with the volt tester. There are a series of relatively easy tests that can help narrow it down. Also going to take the primary cover off and smell inside. Apparantly a foul odor is a telltale of a fried stator. I'm going to get a new battery anyway, just want to use the old one while I do some of the testing.

The stator would be the hardest to replace. You have to take off the whole primary. May need to do that anyway soon, as it looks like I've developed a small shifter shaft leak.

I'll keep you posted!

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Howdy all,

Dave T on the money as usual!

Appreciate all the responses and info. Here's the update.....

Was thinking it was probably either the battery or the stator. Charged up the battery a couple of days ago. Took it to Autozone for the free battery test. Test results were "Battery OK, low charge".

Finally got to go out to the barn and do some testing yesterday. Unhooked the Voltage Regulator plug. Put the voltmeter across the pins on the stator side and fired her up. Only 5 -6 volts at idle, and only up to 9 volts at 3000 rpm. Uh oh, sounds like the stator. Had read elsewhere that a putrid smell from the primary is another indication of the stator being fried. Opened the primary cover and whew, what a smell :eek: .

So I'm sure it's my stator. I'm the wrench on this ride, so I'll learn something new. Worked on getting everything set up for the replacement. Took off the shifters, the left floorboard, and the left passenger footboard. Drained the primary. Will pickup the stator and the gaskets hopefully today, and get started this weekend. I hope to borrow a breaker bar and the 1 1/2 and 1 3/16 sockets. I also have developed a slight oil leak, which I think is the shifter shaft seal, so I'll tackle that while I have the whole primary assembly off.

I'll post some photos as I go, and keep you all posted.

Thanks again for all the info.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
A couple more questions.....

Anyone else know of any picture links of a stator change?

Also, anything else I should change while I have the primary off?

Anyone know the stator part #. I think it should be 29987-02, but also read something about 29987-97B? Hopefully the rotor/magnets are OK, but we'll see when I get in there.

Also, what is the part number for the shifter shaft seal? I think that should be 12067b, but don't know if I'm reading the parts manual correctly. I read somewhere that Cometic (or something like that) makes a better seal. Anyone know, or know where to get cometic seals?

Thanks again all.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hello friends,

OK, got started on my stator replacement. This will be a little photo story of the process, complete with pictures.

Thursday, I took the left side floorboards, front and passenger, off, as well as the shifter pegs. Took out the primary drain plug, and let it empty into a bucket for a whole day. Ooo Ooo that smell, to quote Lynyrd Skynyrd.

Yesterday, I ordered a shifter shaft seal from Cometic. $2 plus shipping. You have to take off the whole primary to do that, so I'll do the stator and the shaft seal at the same time. Got on Zanotti's website, and ordered the stator also. Quite a bit less than HD list, even with shipping.

WARNING - The following pictures contain filth. If a dirty Harley bothers you, please don't go any further. My (somewhat lame but true) excuse is that I took two rides last week, and in both, I ran through A WHOLE BUNCH of those little snow melt streams. Made a pretty good mess of the scoot. The second ride was when the electrical problem appeared. Barely made it home. That was a couple of days ago. I also must confess that I ride and tinker with it more than I clean it. But it usually looks at least somewhat better than this:eek: .

I followed the manual closely, and here are the pics.....

The barn set-up. The old piece of carpet is handy for me old knees.....


Took off the left side boards and shifters and drained the primary.....


Removed all the screws and pulled the whole outer primary cover. You can see the HB-125 Auto Chain Tensioner.....


Removed the tensioner. The backplate for the tensioner can stay.....


Went to the Dealer the other day. They wanted almost $40 for a piece of plastic called the primary chain locking tool. Read somewhere else that a chunk or two of a cutting board works just as well. So to Walmart I went. $4 later I had a new cutting board. Traded it with my wife for an old one.....


Cut three strips 1 1/4 inch wide, and screwed them together in step fashion to come up with my ($4!!) version.....


From the manual, HD's version of the tool.....


Breaker bar with 1 1/2 socket on the compensating nut, the locking tool in place. Added a pipe over the bar for leverage, and it came loose easier than I had read it might. Normal lefty loosy, righty tighty for this one.....


Nut and cover (has a name, manual is in the barn, sorry)removed.....


Will continue with more posts.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Continuing on.....

I used my new retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring spring thingy on the clutch basket. Yes, I followed the manual's strong warning to wear goggles for eye protection. It went easliy, without spring flying incident.....


Time to put the breaker bar with 1 3/16 inch socket on the clutch main nut. This one is reverse threaded, righty loosy. The locking tool is now on the upper right under the primary chain. My trusty assistant, ready to heave ho. This one went easy also.....


I removed the adjuster nut and screw along with the little plate. Then I pulled out the sprocket, chain, and clutch basket, just like the manual said. Here are all the primary contents.....


Just the Inner Primary left on the bike now.....


Removed the little Starter Jackshaft nut, and pulled out the jackshaft screw and sleeve.....


Kept following the manual. Went to the right side of the bike and removed the two screws securing the starter. They go into the backside of the inner primary case. Back to the left side. Removed the two front bolts, and then loosened the locking tabs on the five inside bolts that hold the inner primary to the motor and trans. Removed them, and then pulled off the inner primary. Man the filth. The leaking shifter shaft seal sure didn't help.....


That's all for today. Took my time. Actually kind of enjoying it now. It's a challenge. Next will be the removal of the rotor over the stator. There is a special HD tool just for that. I've got a plan, and we'll see if it works. Can't wait to get the rotor off and get a gander at that stator.

Here's the barn now, alot of stuff laid out.


Got about 2 -3 easy hours in it so far. Just taking my time, and trying to get it right. Will post back when I make some more progress. Once I get the rotor off and the stator removed, I'll have to wait for the parts to arrive before I can do much else. Could be a week or a little longer.

Hmm. Maybe I'll take off the front wheel and fender, since they are already up off the ground a few inches. I can start working on getting that fender sanded down and primed. It's next on the "going to paint it red" list.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
On a ride
Joined
·
4,996 Posts
Doug, your detailed tale with images, as provide before, continues to more than impress. I might be more anxious than you to get it put back together so I can read more ride reports!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the words Steve,

Made a little more progress today.

On Saturday, I got to where I had to get the Rotor off of the stator. The High Amp (45) Rotor uses bigger magnets, and the manual and other stuff I read said that you couldn't just pull it off with risking damage to it or the shaft, or injury to yourself.

The manual shows a little tool for removing and re-installing the rotor. Kind of like a steering wheel or bearing puller. So the other day at the dealership, I also was looking for this tool. Doesn't look too fancy, I thought, shouldn't be too steep. Went to the parts counter, with part number in hand. Go to the accessories counter. OK walked over to the other side of the dealership to that counter. Me - "Hi, I need the rotor removal tool". Them - "Huh?" Me - "It's the tool to remove the rotor from the stator". Them - Talked to each other, seemed confused. Me - "Here, I have the part number". Them - "Maybe we should look in the tools book". Well a long story short, is they finally found the part in some tool book. Me - "How much is it?" Them - "We would have to order it". Me - OK, how much would it be?" Them - A long phone call to wherever they order tools from. I overheard that their cost was $168. "Your cost about $220". Me - "No thanks".

I read where someone did it using a wheel puller. So while at Sears picking up a couple of other items, I found this for $20. Probably could have got one for a little less at Auto Zone or similar, but I wanted something solid.....


BTW, here is a picture of the HD tool in the manual.....


Needed a couple of small blocks of wood to get the puller frame up over the shaft.....


Put a little tape over the shaft for protection. Don't want to damage any of the little splines.....


Bought two 3 inch 5/16 bolts to attach through the puller/wood into the threaded screw holes in the rotor.....


Inserted the main threaded rod and put the socket wrench on.....


Turned the wrench for a little, and presto, it came right off. Not much force needed at all with this setup.....


And behind the rotor, my problem, a fried stator. Was glad to see it actually. Assumed, but couldn't confirm, that this was in fact my electrical problem until I saw the stator.....


Removed the 4 screws, snipped the wires outside the primary, pulled the the wires and rubber plug/stopper thing back through the wire hole, and pulled out the stator. One last pic of the culprit.....


Now I have to wait for my new shifter shaft seal and the new stator to arrive. Could be several more days, or even a week or so. I'll keep this going as I (hopefully) progress.

BTW - I did pull the fender, and will try and get it sanded down and primed in the next few days. Hope to have it done in a week or so. I'm hoping to be back in the wind in 10 -12 days.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Outstanding work, Doug !

Once gain, your detailed reporting and pictures will help lots of other riders.

Wish you didn't live so far away, I'd come to your house instead of going to my dealer, LOL !!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Great job documenting your progress! This very well could be the first installment on a "How to -Step by Step" section of the forum.
 

·
#20
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
That's all well and good but I think we are all missing the important thing here...Belk is having a big sale on air purifiers. Buy one on sale get the second at %50 off!!!

No really, nice job Doug, sorry you had to go through it though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks all,

Got an email from Zanotti's, and my stator should be here in the next day or two. Work and a soccer tournament this weekend, so will get going again next week.

98RKC,

Thanks for pointing out that sale. I'll need one of those purifiers for the barn. Still quite a rank smell from that foul primary!

BTW, where is Forest Hill?

The front fender is red now. Needs a little fine sanding, and the clear coat. Need a nice day or two to get that finished. The weather here turned cold and rainy again, so hopefully it will get better next week.

Will continue to post w/ pics as I progress.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top