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COB
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Discussion Starter #1
I have the TC-96 with a Screaming Eagle air filter, Rinehart 2:1, and a SERT. I have had it dyno tuned to run with an AFR of 14 (roughly).

It's still gutless. Especially after having a VROD.

I would like to get more power out of it, would like it to rev out better and have more on the top end, and don't really give two shits about the warranty. What should be my order of mods (most bang for the buck)?

Thanks guys.
 

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1) Change AFR to 12.8 - 13.2
2) Cams & Headwork
3) Big Bore kit.
4) Open up the rev limiter to 7k
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #3
So I have looked at heads in the past. Any favorites?

And put yer damn pants back on.
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #5
Im using the HTCC CNC heads, but you can do better by going custom.
GMR Performance http://www.gmrperformance.com/
My bike dyno'd at something like 68 measly horsepower. It of course has good torque. I would like to get something like 100/100 or 110 hp and 90 lb/ft would be good. Maybe a bit more hp than torque. I know you have a ton of both in that Nighttrain of yours. I'm not looking to spend $5k or more, but I could be convinced to part with another $3 to $3.5k over the winter.

I will look into some heads and cams. I also want to buy a better fueler. I know my SERT wont control too far out out of 14 AFR. I had a friend that had the VFRID for the VROD and it was VERY nice. Wide range O2 sensors and had a great user interface. I think a very capable and friendly fuel manager is essential and I am going to have to just bite the bullet and buy one.

Thanks for the tips guys.
 

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Spend your money right, I think you can top my bike for 3 - 3.5k. You already have the stroker crank that I had to pay extra for, so a no case machining 103" motor would be pretty easy. Hell if you're gonna buy high compression pistons, why not buy bigger high comp pistons?

:D
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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You already have the stroker crank that I had to pay extra for, so a no case machining 103" motor would be pretty easy. Hell if you're gonna buy high compression pistons, why not buy bigger high comp pistons?
What he said!

Same with heads, any heads that will help a 96, will really help a 103.
 

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On a ride
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Not as tech saavy as y'all, but if looking to be in the vicinity of the 100hp/100tq club, many CVO owners are posting dyno runs showing their 110" bikes near this level of performance. Of course, altitude and other factors will have some influence, so it could be a challenge in UT (as it is here in CO), to see nums much past 90.

Nevertheless. the performance ummmmph you're looking for could be as straightforward as installing the 110" kit. Not sure of the pricing -- I think in the neighborhood of your desired $3-3.5K range?

This I know, the CVO RK hauls up mountain roads like no big twin I've had before. Nearby is a divine motorcycle road with a four mile grade called Horsepower Hill. About a month ago I approached a rider on the ascent on a bored out and hopped up Victory Vegas. When he saw my lights growing larger in his mirrors he pinned it. He continued to see closer lights and couldn't believe it was a bagger gaining on him. I passed him then left him in the curves -- the curves are what I ride for and a reason I sold the Heritage... more clearance! Pulled over at a scenic pullout and he soon came in and parked next to me. He was at a loss for words that a Harley Road King could out pull him on Horsepower Hill. Of course the 110" was a factor... but in your chassis, I think it would be an even bigger beast.

But of course, you'd be hindered with the shield and bags you fondly like to ride with. :rofl:

Edit: Having Google check on 110" kits, here's one of many places noting a price and what it comes with: http://www.latus-harley-davidson.com/EFI-Kits-1299-plist.html
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #9
But of course, you'd be hindered with the shield and bags you fondly like to ride with. :rofl:
That shield is history. The new helmet is all I need.
 

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Hello Mike, I have a 96 inch kit by Dave Mackie, his head work is well known and my bike dyno at 98 hp and about the same in torque, I have raced a few friends of my with s&S 113 a my bike pulled away, you should look him up online and see what he says, he is on the west coast but he makes power and his kits are reliable. Hope this helps. www.davemackie.com
 

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The 110" kit into a 96" requires case machining to accept the bigger bores. Im not sure how far into the motor Mike wants to go. Another thing to consider, 103" is near the limit for the stock TB and injectors @ ~120 hp depending on cams/compression etc.... (which coincidentally is also the limit on the stock crank bearings on '03+ TCs without converting to Timken).

I'd say save some money and have the stock cylinders bored to match the new pistons. You can get much better tolerances doing it this way than in "kit" form. Same thing with the heads. Reputable porters can match headwork to work with a specific cam, and still cost less than an off the shelf new head.

Build your motor around your pistons, literally. Start off with some good forged pistons in the 10.5:1 neighborhood so you can still run pump gas (JE etc), pick a gear drive cam that works with this compression ratio and puts the power band where you want it, then get heads ported to match the two.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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Damn sure wish there was a way to open up enough space where the battery and oil reservoir are to tuck a turbo in there where it wouldn't stick out the side.

Then again, I've seen some pretty stylish nitrous installs. In fact, concealing a larger nitrous bottle in a small roll bag seems an excellent reason to use a solo seat and a rack behind.

One thing I can't shake about most engine mods, they are only beneficial for 5% of your riding time, but most of them cause some kind of negative side effect all the time. First reaction to the idea of nitrous is that it's kind of extreme, but looking at it the other way, putting up with reduced low end torque so you can peg the rpm a few times on each ride is extreme in my view.
 

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I break stuff.
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Call Brian Conley at Valley Racing... He got my 95" '99 into the '100 Club". Bike makes fun, very usable power - and still totally reliable. I'm going back to him over the winter for some more 'goodies'.

708-946-1440
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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Mike, Mike, Mike..

I would completely trust your advice on a Custom Bike,
please trust me, as someone blessed with both types of HD rides....

Remember I told you this, before you go off in the wrong direction,

Some days you feel like TORQUE
Some days you feel like HORSEPOWER

If you want V-Rod performance, you have to have a V-Rod.

If you didn't JUST LOVE the torque ride of the TC-96, you wouldn't have spent months
telling us how much you love it.
Don't mess it up trying to get it to be something it's not.

If I had your bike and a gift certificate to trick out a 103,
I'd build it for mid-range OOOOMMPPHH!!
A joy to twist 95+% of the time.

To hell with WFO, the 5% thrill, and the dyno numbers totally be damned.

IMHO, the soul of traditional Harley Davidson V Twin appeal
IS NOT the blending of an indistinguishable torrent of power pulses,
no matter how impressive they are in combination.

The soul of traditional Harley Davidson is the joy of THE VERY NEXT POWER STROKE,
individually, relished, savored, honored, however briefly, all by itself.


OH YEAH!
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #17
It's my bike, hippie. I'll defile it all I want. :rofl: I like the torque, I just want more HP. If I go for a HP motor then I will have all the civility down low but that burst up top for that 5% of the time I want it.

A lot of guys love their wife but still get em boob jobs.

:ride



Mike, Mike, Mike..
 

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I like torque and horsepower.

If I'm gonna be paying for a boob job for my gf, I'd want her to get them both done, not just one.

:rofl:
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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I wish I had a VROD too. Now I am divorced I am saving my pennys
Just watch.
Head down this path, you'll wind up in deep enough you'll be hard pressed to have a V-Rod too.
 

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I break stuff.
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Nathan... PREACH Brotha', PREACH!

I love it when you get all fired up :)
 
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