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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally have my bike up and running, it is an 06 street glide. Bike has a set of pipes and the stage one done. I installed the pipes, vance and hines true duals and 3.5" rush mufflers. My question is this, I am looking for more power!! Find the bike a little lazy. I was talking to the guy that works on my bike he tells me to get a new computer for it, says its about 1000 bucks and makes a big diff. I wanted to know! Won't installing new cams do the same? I really can only afford to do one or the other this year so was looking for input as which is the best bang for the buck...
 

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i finally have my bike up and running, it is an 06 street glide. pipe has a set of pipes and the stage one done. I installed the pipes, vance and hines trues duals and 3.5" rush mufflers. my question is this, i am looking for more power find the ike a little lazy. I was talking to the guy that works on my bike he tells me to get a new computer for it, says its about 1000 bucks and makes a big diff. I wanted to know wont installing new cams do the same? i really can only afford to do one or th e other this year so was looking for input as which is the best bang for the buck...
A set of cams along with a PowerCommander will give you what you are looking to find. :bike-038:


:coffee:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok I thank you for the input but I wanted to know what to do first? the cams or the computer?
 

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Computer. Power commander and a tune for your bike. Cams are a great next move. Although youbsay you have a stage 1 you truely don't with out a change in tune. PC are roughly 350 bucks. A good tune I don't know 450 and up. Next year do cams and another tune.

I am usually wrong but this seems to be the normal flow of things. Atleast what I have read on this forum.

Good luck.

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Discussion Starter #5
so i am a little confused... sorry my first EFI bike.. The power commander is the computer? the tune is the upgrade to the aftermarket computer I get?
 

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Fat Guy on the Ultra
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Three different ways of making efi better. Why do you need better? The stock air fuel ratio is way lean as the moco must meet spa standards.
1 died from NightRider. Bout $100 and they just richen the AFR up from stock 14.7-1 to about 14-1. Easy to I stall. Plug I like e with the o2 sensors and run ground to battery.
2. A piggy back tuner. These range from $250-400. These are the Vance and hines and power commander and kuryakyn styles. They work well and are moderate to I stall. They work by altering the signals the ecm geta from sensors and trick the ecm into performing as desired. Power and plug inline with the ecm, computer, and you can tune them with a canned map for moderate performance or use a dyno to get all you can. Prices very there.
3. A reprogramming tuner such as the tts master tune and the HD sert. These style marry to the ecm on the bike and actually reprogram the ecm with data to perform as desired. These style are probably best for the truly performance oriented because of their ability.

At least that's the condensed version of what my 3yrs of research have provided.

I did the xieds and slipons and air cleaner on my new 13 ultra and for what I want, I'm happy

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Go Army!
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632 Posts
Buddy, here are the results of my mods on my 2008 Heritage Classic (FLSTC) from stock, to Stage I and just recently, a Stage II Big Bore Kit. Bottom line (IMHO): Stage II with cam change and then Dyno it.

In January 2012, I upgraded to a SE Stage I with Vance & Hines Big Shot Longs. After the modification, initial horse power was a negligible 66.41 with 79.43 ft-lbs of torque. After the Dyno, horse power increased modestly to 72.44 - a 6.03 point increase. Torque wasn’t much better increasing only 6.14 ft-lbs to 85.57 ft-lbs.

Over the winter I upgraded to a SE Stage II Big Bore Kit with SE-255 Cams displacing the 96 ci to 103 (1690cc). This included changing out the stock cams to 255s, as well as the cylinders and a few other parts. After the dyno, I realized only a slight increase in power coming in at 88.13. The torque was much more significant. Pre-dyno torque measured 103.82 ft-lbs. But, after the adjustments, torque measured a whopping 108.22 ft-lbs! This is a 22.65 ft-lb jump in torque from the Stage I kit (85.57 ft-lbs to 108.22 ft-lbs.).

The difference is absolutely amazing and well worth the cost. Absolutely throws me back into the seat when I turn the throttle... Tune your ride; you’ll appreciate the power and performance.
 

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I put the Cobra Fi2000 on mine seems to be working great. I just put Bassani crossover true dual headers on, (not nearly as easy as was supposed to be, especially since I wanted to keep the S&S mufflers) and didn't have to do anything as far as computer. I'd like to dyno it sometime though and really see if the Cobra system is doing all they claim.
Just my $.02.....
 

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I have a 2004 Road King and for my Stage 1 I went to a Zippers air filter and then cleaned up and polished the intake of the throttle body. I then went with the S&S Power Tune duals with Vance & Hines slip on’s.

Then I installed the ThunderMax Auto Tuner from Fuel Moto. Bike runs great and you can tune it yourself without having to spend the money on a Dyno every time you make a change.


Next winter I will be installing a 98” big bore kit so the ThunderMax tuner will be perfect for me when I decide to install that.

Bruce
 

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09 Dyna Super Glide
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I would vote for a set of cams. I just had a set of S&S Easy-Start 551's installed in my 2009 Dyna Super Glide. It made a very noticeable difference. I'm not a big fan of true-duals. I have a D&D 2-into-1 exhaust.

You don't need an expensive tuner unless you are going to dyno the bike to try to get every last fraction of a horsepower out of it. Vance and Hines tuner is good enough for a lot less money and the average shop can tune it without a dyno.

There a times when I think that we Harley owners get a bit silly about wanting more power. My 2009 Dyna Super Glide had plenty of power right off the showroom floor. That didn't stop me from spending a lot of money on and intake, pipes, and cams. I guess that it is the hobby aspect of owing a motorcycle that draws us into doing stuff to the bike that we really don't need.

I have seen a lot of people modify their Harleys so that they lost all low end, ruined their mileage and range, or just ended up with bikes that ran like crap. Big cams mean narrow power bands which can be a dog to ride.

If you do any mods, try to find a shop that has some real experience under its belt integrating the project. Just bolting on intakes, pipes, cams, tuners, etc is no guarantee that it will all work right when you are done.

I finally have my bike up and running, it is an 06 street glide. Bike has a set of pipes and the stage one done. I installed the pipes, vance and hines true duals and 3.5" rush mufflers. My question is this, I am looking for more power!! Find the bike a little lazy. I was talking to the guy that works on my bike he tells me to get a new computer for it, says its about 1000 bucks and makes a big diff. I wanted to know! Won't installing new cams do the same? I really can only afford to do one or the other this year so was looking for input as which is the best bang for the buck...
 
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