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Hey there Picked up a laid down 99 sportster 1200 S that had been sitting for quite some time. So far I have
.Replaced foot controls
.Replaced shifter shaft
.New brake light
.New primary cover gasket
.Rebuilt and bleed front brakes
.New carburator
.New fuel lines
.New to me ignition coil
.New to me coil wires
.New ignition module
.Replaced entire main wiring harness
.Rebuilt starter solenoid
.New starter relay

The bike is finally trying to crank again if I pull a plug and lay it against the block it sparks, but the bike just doesn't seem to be firing even spraying sea foam into the brand new carb doesn't seem to do anything I'm at a loss and kinda becoming defeated with the entire project I put helicopters together for a living but this thing is kicking my ass haha.
When I replaced the ignition module I set the screws in the position that they where on, on the old one is it possible that I screwed the timing up and that would keep it from starting? Any advice on things to check would be greatly appreciated I know I have a good exhaust leak on the rear exhaust but would that keep it from starting? Previous owner sheered the exhaust stud off along with an extractor in the block.

  1. But I have fuel and spark without firing where do I go from here? Thanks to anyone in advance - Mark
 

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I was thinking maybe a carburetor spray (e.g. Gumout) instead of SeaFoam to see if it will at least fire or pop. Not sure if SeaFoam is "combustible" and would work like a starting fluid would.
 

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FWIW: Wd-40 is combustible! But don't over due it, I don't want to see a post where the head blew off or cracked..
Did you try breaking (shattering) that broken extractor with a center punch? Wear eye protection! those hardened tools can break aggressively.

Welcome to the forum, from a fellow whirligig mech. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@DRVMN I have a can of gum-out carb cleaner sadly no pops or bangs with it either

@1/2 Ton there where quite a few sheared bolts I was able to bust up all of them aside from that one in particular even got some carbide bits to try and grind it out to no luck

Greatly appreciate the suggestions though I bypassed the bank angle sensor and pulled a different plug I still had spark almost sorta seems intermittent to me like it takes a second of letting it spin to see spark rather than instantly not sure if that is correct or not but I ran the battery dry playing with it so it's charging back up now this is the weird model with 4 spark plugs 😞
 

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A broken extractor can not be ground (too hard) they will shatter if struck hard! They don't like impacts much. A very pointed center punch "usually" works well. Next to that its cold soaking it then hitting it with the punch. If you can get some dry Ice or liquid Nitrogen they give up much easier.. Dry ice takes a bit longer than the liquid...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@1/2 Ton I've center punched it but never tried cold soaking may have to look into getting some dry ice or nitrogen don't wanna be out and about more than i have to with this crazy virus I appreciate the suggestions though 👈
 

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That liquid nitrogen evaporates really fast! Even when its stored in a Dewar. So a coffee cups worth, isn't missed much from the shop... 🙃 Just don't put it in any kind of sealed container...You will NOT like the surprise! :eek:
 

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Gypsy on Parade
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Definitely not, 1/2 Ton. Guy I knew captured some liquid argon (similar to N2) to show a helper what it would do to a fly. The helper then captured some in a Mountain Dew bottle and put the lid on it. He was walking across the job site to show his friend when that bottle came to a decisively bad end (along with his hand).
 

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Definitely not, 1/2 Ton. Guy I knew captured some liquid argon (similar to N2) to show a helper what it would do to a fly. The helper then captured some in a Mountain Dew bottle and put the lid on it. He was walking across the job site to show his friend when that bottle came to a decisively bad end (along with his hand).
That stuff can be real nasty! Back in the 80's, At McDonnell Douglas, we would put 6-10 pellets of dry ice in a two liter soda bottle, add a couple ounces of any liquid and cap it.. It required a shop bicycle haulin' butt to get away from it in time! The only part of the remains we ever found was the top of the cap, Not a hint of the plastic soda bottle. The sound was deafening! Those antics went on 2nd & 3rd shifts (Sorry Lakewood CA) until, we were informed that we could be charged for manufacturing an explosive device.... It only took one warning! Never done it since! I'm sure it would have killed one of us if, we failed to get clear in time!
That had to be the top of the list for stupid chit done at work! 2nd to that was shooting rivet darts into a 5 or 6 story high ceiling. (Whatever it was to the top of the hanger). The dumb stuff that 20 somethings can come up with!
I had a good teach, in my days as a young Marine. My room-mate ran the Cryogenics lab at MCAS, El Toro. We would catch field mice and use Liquid Oxygen as a testing media....That was weird!
Sorry for getting off topic! The point is NEVER cap liquid or solid gases! That chit WILL put you in the hurt locker!
 

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Mark the timing plate with a sharpie, then try moving it slightly left/right and see if that works. Try spraying some starting fluid or gas into the mouth of the carb to see if it fires while spinning over.
 

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Hey there Picked up a laid down 99 sportster 1200 S that had been sitting for quite some time. So far I have
.Replaced foot controls
.Replaced shifter shaft
.New brake light
.New primary cover gasket
.Rebuilt and bleed front brakes
.New carburator
.New fuel lines
.New to me ignition coil
.New to me coil wires
.New ignition module
.Replaced entire main wiring harness
.Rebuilt starter solenoid
.New starter relay

The bike is finally trying to crank again if I pull a plug and lay it against the block it sparks, but the bike just doesn't seem to be firing even spraying sea foam into the brand new carb doesn't seem to do anything I'm at a loss and kinda becoming defeated with the entire project I put helicopters together for a living but this thing is kicking my ass haha.
When I replaced the ignition module I set the screws in the position that they where on, on the old one is it possible that I screwed the timing up and that would keep it from starting? Any advice on things to check would be greatly appreciated I know I have a good exhaust leak on the rear exhaust but would that keep it from starting? Previous owner sheered the exhaust stud off along with an extractor in the block.

  1. But I have fuel and spark without firing where do I go from here? Thanks to anyone in advance - Mark
 

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I would unscrew the timing mark plug. In the middle of the cylinders. Take out the front cylinder spark plug. Put a pin or something in the spark plug hole so you can see when the piston is at top dead center. You can put the bike in 5 gear and walk it. Till the piston is at the top of the compression stroke. Look in to you timing sight hole and see a line in the middle. Should be exactly in the middle. The mark should not move. If you see the mark fall backwards. You are losing compression and may have a bent valve. If the timing Mark is in the middle of the timing hole. Turn you key to run. But don’t start it. Go to your ignition module. Rotate it till you see the light. Then back just until the light comes on. Your timing is set.
 

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For the broken exhaust stud with the extractor stuck in it, weld a nut onto the top of the stud. A wire welder works good. Weld from the top of the stud to the inside of the nut, the heat will help to break the stud loose too. S&S Tech gave me this tip and I've used it several times with excellent results.

Where the hell did the OP find a NEW CV carb and a NEW Sportster S ignition ???

Anyways the Sportster S is the dual plug head Sportster, sweet bikes. The neat thing is it has a data link connection to the ECM, the Scanalyzer plugs right in, so does the Digital Tech.! Good for diagnostics, checking codes etc..

Sportster S has a single fire ignition, coil wires have to go to correct cylinders. Testing for spark the plugs need to be screwed into the heads and spark tester plugged in between the wires and plugs.

Remove the timer plug from the left crankcase to find TDC then watch the ignition module LED to dial in the timing. This can be done electronically with the Scanalyzer or Digital Tech. to fine tune the timing.
 

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To replace a Timing Sensor always Mark with a Black Sharpe a couple of the Degrees on the Sensor carrying it down to the Cam Chest. That way you can reinstall a new sensor exactly as before.

If you didn’t put that Ignition Module, Integrated Sensor, Part Number 32465-98B back in exactly the same spot the Bike is out of time and will never Start.

To Time one, You can buy Timing Light at Harbor Freight for $7.00 and reset the Timing. Also it's a Two man job but you can Lock the Throttle down at 2500 RPM’s with the Cruise Screw on the Throttle. Check out the S&S Cycle Video on how they Time a Fatboy using the HI-4N Ignition Module.
This procedure Works.

Also to help you go here and “”Register””” then Login to get access to The Independent Operator Login. Home | Harley-Davidson SIP
Once in you have access to All Parts Catalogs for every Bike. It’s all here with Pic’s and how they go together along with the Manual. All you have to do is select your Year and the Bike you own, then find the Part.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright sorry for taking so long to respond work and life has been crazy finally got ahold of a compression tester and I have 85psi on the front cylinder 15psi on the rear so it looks like its gonna be a major undertaking to make this thing run again 😔

Side question will cylinders and heads from any year 1200 evo fit any year 1200 evo?
Saw a set on ebay
 
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