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Neutral Light voltage

7738 Views 12 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Jeffforty
The neutral light has faded away slowly. It has a bunch of corrosion on the circuit board of lights, oil, turn etc. The rest of the lights all work.

My question: The neutral switch at the transmission works correctly I believe. But when I test at the plug for instrument lights the voltage seems to work backwards. When in neutral no power at light terminal. when in gear there is power. I assume this has something to do with starter circuit. So maybe I am testing the wrong terminal? It, I think, is the only terminal associated with the neutral light.

TIA for the help

A new instrument light part will solve it but I am curious about the circuitry.
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The neutral light comes on when the switch completes the circuit. The switch has constant power, when the neutral gear trips the switch the ground completes the circuit and the light comes on.
You can test the wire harness by jumping the 2 terminals at the connector. Unplug the connector from the switch first.
Jumping the connector terminals will turn the neutral light on if everything is working right.
Ok now that makes so sense to me. Time to go check it out. Thanks
After jumping the connector wires the light comes on the circuit is good. The switch is bad.
After jumping the connector and the light doesn't come on then there's a problem with the miring.
The problem is in the indicator light assembly board. Have to have power on the low oil pressure light and ties thru the Neutral some how in the indicator lights to get the neutral light. Anyways I'm pretty sure the board is toast. lot of corrosion.

Wiring schematics are like doing Chinese Arithmetic... GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Now lost power to cig lighter and accessory switch. Accessory fuse had blown so replaced. Nothing checked fuse it's good. GRRRRRRRRRRRR Time to walk away!
P&A fuse bad. Looked at it at least 6X. Looked pristine. Finally tested with ohm NFG. There's a first for me. Have heard about testing fuses but never seen one that looked good but was bad.
P&A fuse bad. Looked at it at least 6X. Looked pristine. Finally tested with ohm NFG. There's a first for me. Have heard about testing fuses but never seen one that looked good but was bad.

If that was one bad, I would replace all of them.
I have 4 extra sets of all fuses except the master and have 2 of that. Have a small ohm meter to carry on bike. During the season.
All lights on the bike are 12v. Wattage varies from bulb to bulb.
Some vapor/plasma headlamps have higher voltage using step up power supplies.
LEDs use ballast resistors to reduce volts.
P&A fuse bad. Looked at it at least 6X. Looked pristine. Finally tested with ohm NFG. There's a first for me. Have heard about testing fuses but never seen one that looked good but was bad.
Those tiny fuses are difficult to visually check. I've been fooled several times. I don't even look anymore, just break out the meter.
I helped a friend sort out an electrical problem on his bike. When I arrived he said that the fuse was "good." After more than an hour of trying to figure out where the conductor was broken, I checked the fuse with an ohm meter - the fuse was blown.

After that I never trusted a visual inspection of any fuse.

Pete

P&A fuse bad. Looked at it at least 6X. Looked pristine. Finally tested with ohm NFG. There's a first for me. Have heard about testing fuses but never seen one that looked good but was bad.
I have a bunch of fuses that have a diode in them. When the fuse blows the diode lights up. It is strange looking at a lit up fuse that is blown
I have a bunch of fuses that have a diode in them. When the fuse blows the diode lights up. It is strange looking at a lit up fuse that is blown
Yup, have these in control panels around my plant. They are great for saving me time. They work because when the fuse is good there is no difference in potential across the fuse. When the fuse opens there is now a potential difference so current flows through the only way it has.
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