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1999 Ultra classic
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Another advantage of Iridiums is that they have a much stronger spark in low-voltage situations than traditional plugs. Granted, that's only going to be an issue if your battery is near dead, but it can mean the difference between riding it home or having to get a tow if your charging system fails without you realizing it and you've been out running errands on pure battery power and nearly wiped the battery out.

Ask me how I know. 馃槢

They also have a tendency to resist fouling better than others.

They're expensive compared to traditional copper plugs on initial purchase, but they pay for themselves in the long run due to their much longer life. Long-term, they probably cost about the same as traditional plugs.
Sounds like we both learn things the hard way. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hey RJ64 calling someone a dummy over the phone they choose is a bit dickish don't you think? Kind of like calling them a dummy for not riding the bike you choose.. just sayin
Hey RJ64 calling someone a dummy over the phone they choose is a bit dickish don't you think? Kind of like calling them a dummy for not riding the bike you choose.. just sayin
Well I personally took it in jest. Sort of like the Iphonme is the "Mobile Phone for dummies" book set thing. It's all good, I took it as a joke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I just want to thank you all for your help on this. I have ordered new plugs and as soon as they come in I should be good to go, fingers crossed. I went ahead and got the Champion Copper plus from the Dennis Kirk site.
 

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1997 Softail Custom (FXSTC)
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I just want to thank you all for your help on this. I have ordered new plugs and as soon as they come in I should be good to go, fingers crossed. I went ahead and got the Champion Copper plus from the Dennis Kirk site.
Just for future reference, though I am sure you saw on the site, but both J&P Cycles and Dennis Kirk have a "garage" thing where, if you signed up for an account, you can put one or more motorcycles saved in there and filter any given parts category to only those that list fitment for your ride. DK also has a listing of parts that "possibly will fit but aren't specifically designed for this ride".

Fitment listings will be based on the manufacturer of the parts and might not always be accurate, especially on modified bikes, but they should be accurate 99.9% of the time. Anyway, it's a good way to find a lot of parts that will fit, even if you don't order from them, you can even get the manufacturer part number from the site for cross referencing other brands and websites that might carry different brands that they don't have.

Both sites also have free shipping once you reach a certain pre-tax amount (something like $90+ worth of stuff).

There's other websites too, like Revzilla where you can get aftermarket parts. J&P and DK both mostly carry the same parts at the same price, but sometime one or the other will have a better price on a certain product or might have a few different brands from each other.

If you live on the east coast, shipment from either is usually pretty quick and most times it ships out the same or very next day. Like, they don't dick around getting them out. And USPS seems to be faster on the east coast. It's pretty rare that I have had to wait longer than 3 days from the time of order from either to get my parts (if I ordered early in the day Monday - Saturday), and I always pick the cheapest shipping.
 

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I just want to thank you all for your help on this. I have ordered new plugs and as soon as they come in I should be good to go, fingers crossed. I went ahead and got the Champion Copper plus from the Dennis Kirk site.
I figure you already know this, but just in case - check your owners manual for required electrode gap & torque spec & set accordingly. Gap spec is .040 gap & each plug needs to be torqued to between 11 - 18 ft lbs. These figures are for my 04 Dyna TC88 motor. I like to use a little anti sieze compound applied to the plug threads just prior to installing. My reasoning is because the heads are aluminum & the plugs are steel - different coefficients of expansion.
 

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I figure you already know this, but just in case - check your owners manual for required electrode gap & torque spec & set accordingly. Gap spec is .040 gap & each plug needs to be torqued to between 11 - 18 ft lbs. These figures are for my 04 Dyna TC88 motor.
And use a dab of anti seize on the threads.
 

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Since you are new to HD's, know that you will not get spark with the plugs out, grounded to cyl. The system must sense compression. Leave the plugs in and put a spare in the lead to check.
is this true? I always check them in line. But I never knew they needed compression to spark. Is this all harleys or just the twincam? I have a buddy right now wanting me to look at his bike because of no spark so guess I need to ask him how he checked that. Interesting. Learn something Everytime I get on here lol.
 

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Just EFI TwinCam. They are the only ones with ion sense circuit.

Does not apply to carb bikes or other motors.
 
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is this true? I always check them in line. But I never knew they needed compression to spark. Is this all harleys or just the twincam? I have a buddy right now wanting me to look at his bike because of no spark so guess I need to ask him how he checked that. Interesting. Learn something Everytime I get on here lol.
If I understand this correctly, it's not that spark plugs require compression to spark, it's that EFI Twin Cam motors have a system that won't allow current to the plugs w/o the presence of detected compression. I found this really good explanation of how these motors work.

Harley Fuel Injection | Harley Performance (harley-performance.com)
 

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First HD, and I'm having small issues. A bit of the old background, I have been riding for about 3 years now but my first "real" bike was and is a Honda Shadow that I fully built myself. Full frame off restoration so I know metric bikes OK.
But Being 6'5 that bike was and is a tad bit to small I look like a Grizzly on a bicycle at the circus. LOL
So a friend of mine who has had a heart attack and is now finishing his cancer treatments ( yes he beat it and is now in remission) who can no longer ride pretty much gave me his '99 Ultra Glide.

I'm doing a good bit of normal maintenance before I ride it. It has been sitting for about 1 1/2 years. Getting ready to replace the CPS because it has now spark to the plugs. It ran last week just fine. I drained the tank changed the gas and rode it home and for a bit the following day. It did have a hard time starting but it started. Now nothing, it will crank all day but no spark. Not a big deal, but the spark plugs themselves look like they have seen better days.
Can I just grab spark plugs from like Auto Zone or do they have to be "special" plugs from HD? The Honda have different sizes from normal plugs so you have to go to Honda to get the plugs.
I want to replace the plug wires as well but I have those. This will get 1 of the items off my "to do" list on this bike.
 

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We dont buy metric plugs for an SAE bike. The ONLY thing I buy from HD is spark plugs.
HD plugs, no one knows who makes them. They are all made in China I bet.
 

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I have been using Champion RA8HC's No problems and I can pick them up at the local AP store.
 

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Well I personally took it in jest. Sort of like the Iphonme is the "Mobile Phone for dummies" book set thing. It's all good, I took it as a joke.
That's exactly as it was meant. Being uptight over the smallest of things can be a sign of getting old. And I'm not ready for that. That was supposed to be funny also. BTW the original comment was aimed at COMPANIES not individuals....I hope your day goes well.
 

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Had a Fob battery go out on the road in 2010, Now I change them every other year.
 

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Had a Fob battery go out on the road in 2010, Now I change them every other year.
There have been a couple of recommendations regarding good functioning fob. This is new to me as my ride is an 04 & its fob I don't believe is critical for starting. Are these fob recommendations due to the newer fobs that work automatically, i.e. lock & arm automatically as you walk away from the bike a certain distance?
 

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There have been a couple of recommendations regarding good functioning fob. This is new to me as my ride is an 04 & its fob I don't believe is critical for starting. Are these fob recommendations due to the newer fobs that work automatically, i.e. lock & arm automatically as you walk away from the bike a certain distance?
Actually a FOB for any of the vehicles you have needs to have batteries changed out yearly, do them all at once. Depending on how many vehicles you have that require FOBs but might cost $10 - $12 bucks and a little effort getting the FOBs apart without destroying them in the process. Most modern vehicles have battery monitoring systems that alert you when FOB batteries need replacing.
 

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OK it looks like this thread has progressed from spark plugs all the way to FOB batteries ... just a smooth flow of info. Happens all the time here !
 

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Actually a FOB for any of the vehicles you have needs to have batteries changed out yearly, do them all at once. Depending on how many vehicles you have that require FOBs but might cost $10 - $12 bucks and a little effort getting the FOBs apart without destroying them in the process. Most modern vehicles have battery monitoring systems that alert you when FOB batteries need replacing.
Yes, I agree w/annual battery fob changes & I do that. I only have a fob on my 04 LowRider because it's equipped w/the then optional alarm system. It's all manual & I seldom use it. Thinking maybe when the alarm is manually actuated even on my bike, it won't start until the alarm is turned off. Maybe that's why a good battery would be critical on the newer alarm systems that activate & turn off automatically because if the battery isn't up to snuff, the alarm wouldn't turn off automatically & therefore the bike wouldn't start?
 
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