Harley Davidson Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My '05 Dyna Glide while on short trip uptown started showing the red oil light when at idle. A bit of throttle and it went away. First time this ever occured. Cut the trip short and returned home to check the oil and it being hot checked the manual where it should read on the stick and sure enough just a bit under the full mark for hot conditions. I would guess it was some 3/16ths below the full mark. Added just enough to bring it up to the hot full mark and the red light did not show anymore. Is the light that sensitive to low oil for it did not seem that low to me?? guess Harley means full to the mark when they say so. Bike has 12,000 plus on it and have routinely changed oil at around 2000miles plus. Is there something else going on here that I am missing??
 

·
I {Heart} Hookers.
Joined
·
31,321 Posts
You may have a faulty oil sending unit. An oil psi test needs to be done to determine that.

Low oil psi is also another sign of failed cam chain tensioner shoes, so some diagnostic work needs to be done t determine exactly what the issue is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Dave63,
Thanks for the input. Assume a gauge would be needed to check the psi and have a Serv. Manual. I can scrounge a gauge set up from machine shop friend of mine, but would ask for one with some mechanical skills is the tensioner shoe a complicated project with special tools required?? I'll read up on it tonight in the manual assuming it is covered there. Again, thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Yea remove the oil light sending unit and install a temp OP gauge. If your pressure is ok, you need a new sending unit.

If it's not, like Dave said the wore bits of the old cam pad sometimes gets into areas (especially the pressure relief valve on the Cam Plate) and causes problems. You will prolly want to replace the old (pre 07) tensioner with a hydraulic tensioner kit, it's a lot less problematic.

Here are a couple of video links on it.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
R W B,
Hey, those videos are excellent, much appreciated. I personally don't like the red light set up and considering installing one of those mechanical gauge kits for oil pressure even though that certainly won't solve any problem that may exist, but makes me feel better seeing an actual pressure number. Hope it is not the tensioner/shoe issue for really don't want to drop more "coin" on the bike at this time. Bought the bike little over a year ago and it was basically new w/ 22 miles on it and had sat in warehouse since '05 and now has over 12,000 miles on it and would not think the shoe would wear that soon, but stranger things have happened. As mentioned earlier added oil and light quit showing up and thinking that with low oil and at idle rpm, pump was not picking up enough oil and triggered the light. One can always hope for the best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
. . .. .. ... One can always hope for the best.
If you lookin for a mechanical OP gauge, it's hard to beat the quality deal that Jerzee Customs puts out. It's similar to the one offered by HD but has a stainless braided Russell oil line and the gauge trim piece looks better. It's liquid filled to deal with vibration. When I bought mine they were a tad over $100 for the whole kit.

It comes with a tee that installs the oil line AND keeps the oil light sending unit, which I like having the light to alarm me in case I ain't checking the gauge all the time.

The ONLY thing I didn't like about the gauge kit was I had to go to the hardware store and buy 4, 10 cent stainless washers to use as spacers between the gauge flange and the nuts. Otherwise to get it tight it trys to bend the flange. The instructions say to not over tighten the flange. They should have just included spacers like I did on my own. Also it mounts to the two rear rocker cover fasteners so I retorqued them to specs when I put them back on. The instructions just say tighten them back up, so which ever you feel comfortable with.

Don't torque or over tighten the sending unit or tee, all of these items (including the crankcase threads) are tapered pipe threads and you can strip them if too tight. It's ok to get it good and tight but don't pull real hard on it (if you are heavy handed) or try the manual torque settings on the sender or you may be looking at stripped crankcase threads.

Put some teflon pipe paste on the outer half of threads when you install them. Mine has never leaked.

Here is a link to Jerzee,
Chrome Oil Pressure Trim Kit Twin Cam - Jerzee Customs

As far as the cam pads, you might want to do that upgrade. Those pads are known for failing. And even before they fail those bits can cause problems in the oil pump pressure relief valve. HD eliminated the old style pads in 07 due to them having so much warranty work over it.

Good luck with it and ride safe.
 

·
Retired citizen
Joined
·
22,887 Posts
Jeeeeeezzzzzzz !!! It took the guy 18 minutes to just unbolt and remove the cam plate ! At the rate he was going the whole job is going to take him a day and a half !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
R W B,
Thanks for that source on gauge, looks just like what I am after. Will definitely go for it.

take care out there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Good news regarding low oil pressure signal light. Been couple days now and after topping off the oil supply, light has remained OFF after some 200miles. Guess that OP light is that sensitive, but that is a good thing.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top