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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this is on my 2010 m road king classic. i bought the bike used from an individual. he had all maintence records. it only had 8000mi on it. i have 39000 mi on it now. anyway first time i adjusted the clutch basket and cable the adjuster on the cable was pretty close to the end of the threads when i got the free play out and a sixteenth at the ferrule. that was at 12000 mi. i just adjusted it for second time, basket and cable and the was out to the last thread when i got the free play and a sixteenth at the ferrule. i added a couple of washers at the ferrule so i could get the adjuster on cable to grab another two or three threads, but its still out at the end of the threads too far. like it had wrong cable on it to start with. the cable is the one that came on bike, i know the guy i bought it from he says it is the original cable and handlebars. since i was the first one to adj the clutch it was already pretty close to being out of thds, did it have wrong cable to begin with?
 

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Sure sounds like the cable is too long for the housing .

All you can do is buy a new one .
 

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Retired citizen
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Wouldn't be the wrong cable if it's the original one. No matter the overall cable length the inner cable has the same pull length. In other words, a 30" cable and a 40" cable both have the same pull length.
I'm wondering about your adjustment procedure.
 

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I was suggesting a mistake in the manufacturing of the whole thing. The inner cable being to long for the outer housing .
 

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Keep on Ridin’
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A cable that requires frequent adjustments could be an indication that the inner cable is stretching. That would likely be the result of a cable headed for failure. "Stretch" would be caused by the strands of the wound inner cable beginning to break down, allowing the inner cable to increase in length. In any case, you're probably better off to replace it before it strands you (no pun intended).

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Señor Member
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Wouldn't be the wrong cable if it's the original one. No matter the overall cable length the inner cable has the same pull length. In other words, a 30" cable and a 40" cable both have the same pull length.
I'm wondering about your adjustment procedure.

I'm with SCHMIDTYS. This has happened to me. Get to the end of a clutch adjustment and all of a sudden the cable doesn't have enough adjustability to take up the slack.

I did the clutch adjustment wrong.

Make sure you get the adjustment screw (inside the derby cover) ALL THE WAY IN before you back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turns. Then, make sure you hold the adjustment screw motionless while you tighten that jam nut.

My guess is if you do the clutch adjustment properly, your clutch cable will work.

Good luck.
 

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Does anyone recommend changing cables after x amount of miles? Other than excessive stretch? Back in day seems like they started coming apart at lever. In my Triumphs that is. Cant see end of cable at trans cover on HD.
 

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Wayward Son
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Does anyone recommend changing cables after x amount of miles? Other than excessive stretch? Back in day seems like they started coming apart at lever. In my Triumphs that is. Cant see end of cable at trans cover on HD.
Hard to know the life expectancy of a clutch cable.
Depends on the type of riding you do. Slab or a lot of stop and go. Only have replaced 2 clutch cables on 3 different bikes.
On my old Shovel I went to a Barnett. Put a ton of miles on it with no adjustments.
Replaced the one on T~S only because the previous owner had put the wrong one on.
The threads where it went into the housing were wrong. They were buggered up from having been force threaded.
And the ball on the end would not come out of the housing. Was to big. Had to remove it all as one piece.
Do not have a clue how they even got it together.
 

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Hard to know the life expectancy of a clutch cable.
Depends on the type of riding you do. Slab or a lot of stop and go. Only have replaced 2 clutch cables on 3 different bikes.
On my old Shovel I went to a Barnett. Put a ton of miles on it with no adjustments.
Replaced the one on T~S only because the previous owner had put the wrong one on.
The threads where it went into the housing were wrong. They were buggered up from having been force threaded.
And the ball on the end would not come out of the housing. Was to big. Had to remove it all as one piece.
Do not have a clue how they even got it together.
Thanks. Have you gotten T-S completed yet ?
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wouldn't be the wrong cable if it's the original one. No matter the overall cable length the inner cable has the same pull length. In other words, a 30" cable and a 40" cable both have the same pull length.
I'm wondering about your adjustment procedure.
ok, this is what i have done twice and both times i ended up with the adj nut on cable clear to the end of the threads. first i loosen up the jam nut(on cable and run adj nut toward the loosed jam nut to get som free play. then i held adj screw in clutch basket with an allen wrench and loosen jam nut their then run adj screw in until lightly seats, back out 1 full turn and hold while tightening jam nut. squeeze lever three times. then take free play out with cable adj by running adj nut away from jam nut until about 1/16th inch at ferrule. when im there the adj nut is backed off the last thread. i added washers at ferule so i could get the free play at 1/16th and grab about three thds at the adj nut then tighten jam nut. the first time i adjusted the basket and cable at 11000mi the nut grabed only a couple of threads. this was second time 38000mi. when i do this proceedure neutral is easy to find again i lube cable so its easier to pull lever and shifts are smoother. cable is orig, and ive made the only 2 adjustments. webco's assesment makes sense, but i dont understand why its that way. ill get another cable before next adj but id like to know its ok before i get this one off the bike have you ever encountered this before? thanks for your help,tommy.:what?
 

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Señor Member
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I believe backing out one full turn is too much. That would explain you having too much cable slack.

I suggest try it again and only back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Everything else you describe sounds right to me except for that.
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A cable that requires frequent adjustments could be an indication that the inner cable is stretching. That would likely be the result of a cable headed for failure. "Stretch" would be caused by the strands of the wound inner cable beginning to break down, allowing the inner cable to increase in length. In any case, you're probably better off to replace it before it strands you (no pun intended). i know what you are saying, and i appreciate youre input and i do plan to replace it for safetys sake. but what i dont get is the cable adj nut was like that when the bike was new. two adj in 38000 mi doesnt seem excessive but the nut backed off till almost out of thds when bike was new. clutch had never been adjusted before my adjustement. im thinking webco has the only explanation that makes sense. wont know for sure till i can compare old cable to new cable. i just wondered-
if any of you fellows have seen this before, i havent.
 

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Señor Member
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A cable that requires frequent adjustments could be an indication that the inner cable is stretching. That would likely be the result of a cable headed for failure. "Stretch" would be caused by the strands of the wound inner cable beginning to break down, allowing the inner cable to increase in length. In any case, you're probably better off to replace it before it strands you (no pun intended).



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I believe his cable is not too long or stretched but the clutch itself is not adjusted appropriately.

A poorly adjusted clutch can make your cable seem instantly too long.
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I believe backing out one full turn is too much. That would explain you having too much cable slack.

I suggest try it again and only back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Everything else you describe sounds right to me except for that.
thanks chief, i already tried that, no diff. if i back off basket adj one full turn rather than a half it seems to lenghten the friction zone making less of an off on clutch and more of a motor officer clutch with a little more friction zone, better for low speed manuvering. i may be nuts, but it seems that way to me. im sure a new cable will adj out fine, but im pretty curious and always want to know the why. thanks again, see you in about 9 days in es!:)
 

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if any of you fellows have seen this before, i havent.
Yes, a cable can stretch. It can unwind itself if not wound properly during manufacturing. But, I suspect constant cable adjustment is because the clutch plates are wearing thin. Also a contributing factor is the clutch springs are weakening. Put a washer under each spring and see if that tightens up the clutch cable. Mic the clutch plates and compare to the manual.
 

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, a cable can stretch. It can unwind itself if not wound properly during manufacturing. But, I suspect constant cable adjustment is because the clutch plates are wearing thin. Also a contributing factor is the clutch springs are weakening. Put a washer under each spring and see if that tightens up the clutch cable. Mic the clutch plates and compare to the manual.
thanks, but the adj was out to ent of thds when the bike was new. is one adjustment at 11,000mi and a secone at 38,000mi constent adjustment?
 

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Keep on Ridin’
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Only thing I'm still not clear on - and I'm sure you're doing this - is to make sure your cable has plenty of slack in it before you adjust the clutch basket.

Just for comparison, I got my bike with 44k and I've put over 30k more myself. It's never needed any adjustment. This makes me believe that you have something in transition on your bike. Hope you get it figured out.

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old scoot coot
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thanks, chief, silverback, schmidys,xl returnee, and webco for all your feedback. you all agree that it might be in my clutch adj. today i tried something different. dont know if i should have but it worked. i got to thinking maybe i wasnt getting adjuster screw at basket in far enough before i backed it out. i know you are supposed to loosen jam nut and run screw until lightly seated. well i was just trying to seat it a little more than i had been so i went past where i had been stoping before and i noticed the lever was loosing the free play i had left in so i went on a few more turns, then backed it out and on back in till it was lightly seated, had to turn adj nut on cable in toward the jam a ways to get free play. i then ran basket adj screw back in till lightly seated backed off three quarters and held while tightned jam nut, squeezed lever three times and set the 1/16th. with the washers off and now the nut is on the stud quite a few thds, id say acceptable. nuetral is easy to find now and shifts are smoother and friction zone ok. lever out half way begins to engage clutch. i believe its ok now. i dont really understand what i did worked, i was just fishing. took her on a 120 mi lunch ride and it performed flawlessly. if anyone can explain why i seem to be ok now, i shure would appreciate your input. thanks, guys. tommy:what?
 
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