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I have a 1955 Panhead. I keep having trouble with the bolts loosening and striping out. Does anybody know of any good repairs without having to drill and tap the hole? Helicoil?
 

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Loctite 242 Nut and Bolt Locker is blue in color and is a medium strength locking compound. This allows fasteners to be disassembled with hand tools yet prevents loosening under normal circumstances.

Loctite 271 Stud Lock is red in color and is a very high strength compound that is great for problem fasteners that don`t seem to want to stay tight.Removal may be difficult and may require heating the fastener.
 

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Helicoil`s the best.makes them holes stronger than new.
Then apply the proper Loctite as suggested By Hawkmann
 

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I have a 1955 Panhead. I keep having trouble with the bolts loosening and striping out. Does anybody know of any good repairs without having to drill and tap the hole? Helicoil?

The guys pretty much coverd it I have 2 1/2 pans and if you have any problems or need to know somthing let me know and well work through it together great to see some more old iron on the board!!

WELCOME!!!
 

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Preemptive measures help a lot.
Replacing the old lock washers with new ones when reassembling helps hold the fastener securely. After being used a few times lock washers flatten out & don't "lock" anymore and you tend to overtighten the fastener, which leads to strippage.
Replace tired, worn out threads by installing new nuts & bolts.
On non-critical items I degrease the holes & glue stripped out bolts in with LockTite.
Definitely not a good repair but on a part I plan on replacing anyway I’ve peened the edge of the hole with a centerpunch to decrease the thread dia & smashed the end of the bolt with a hammer to enlarge the thread dia.
But a helicoil is the proper way to fix it.
Smoetimes I use Plan B, which is install a bungee cord to hold the part on. My friends used to call my 65 “The Bungee Glide.”
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The problem I am having right now is that the back cover is leaking oil real slow when the engine is warm. I was going to go to the bolt the next size up to see if that would hold. It has the new d ring rubber gaskets that they make for pans. The threads on the head still look good the bolts just look like they were torqued on to tight. They screw on clean they just dont grip. I am trying to stay away from drilling anything out because I dont want to mess anything up and I want to make the repair at home.
 

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When drilling into prexisting holes to bore for helicoils I just grind off the point of the drill bit,makes it flat so it wo`nt drill any deeper than the existing hole,if that would be a problem in the hole Your boring on.
 

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The rocker covers on Panheads are known for leaking because people overtighten them. Also, make sure yours have the "D" rings and they're not bent and all screwed up, or the cover will leak. You can get aftermarket "D" rings if they are screwed up. I'f I'm correct, the gaskets are cork, and they will get all screwed up and push out if they're overtightened as well....

The bolts commonly break there too, cause they thin and small, and a lot of torque wasn't meant to be there. They hold on tin covers, not the front wheel....

Thread lock by Loctite is good, but Honda sells stuff that's better, and also heatproof. get it from any Honda Motorcycle dealer. Ask for the "Medium Heat proof" stuff....

If you have broken bolts in the pans, some of those go into the head and stop and others go through the aluminum edge (on the pushrod side) and can be seen from undernieth. Since it's a Pan, and has value, try not to use any bolts larger then necessary and keep it original.

Heli coils work good, but old timers make their own, which are just as easy to use and have less chance of backing out on the bolt at a later time. Either or is good though...

1.) You drill the hole one size larger and thread in your next larger bolt, using red locktite.

2.) Cut the bolt head off flush and grind it down. You now have a solid metal slug in the hole that was once stripped out.

3.) Drill the new solid slug with the correct and original size bolt and replace with new hardware.
 

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So you grind down the bit to the size of the bolt? Thats a good idea. Thanks
NO!!!! only grind the POINT off the tip of the bit to keep it from drilling any deeper.
When the dull point on the bit gets to the bottom of the hole it will not drill any deeper.
 

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EDIT**

The threadlock I mentione, from Honda is called "Hondalock".

Hondalock 2, is the regular medium strength stuff.

Hondalock 2H is the heatproof medium strength stuff.

I've found these to be superior to Locktite, in that they work better, resist heat, and reduce thread galling on removal of coated nuts and bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lol!

That's what I meant. The tip off the drill bit.

Here's the fix I did. I went and bought some stainless steel bolts. All new threads on the bolt fit nice and tight. There is only one hole that was stripped out. It did fix my oil leak though by taking all the bolts out and putting them on snug. I think the previous owner over torqued that last set of bolts and that is why they were all messed up and the cover was leaking.
I did take off the "D" ring to see if it was bent. It was flush against the garage floor. I haven't had the engine running more than 5-10 minutes since I am not getting air to cool it from riding.

I am going to try to re-thread the one bolt hole that is stripped out and go one bolt size higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was going to buy the acorn head bolts from JP Cycles. What do you think about those? The bolts I put in are temps till I get something with a chrome head on it.
 

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I use allens on mine. I've run paper gaskets with and without sealant. As long as you get an even torque on them without over torque you shouldn't have a problem.
 
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