Harley Davidson Forums banner

1 - 20 of 67 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got a noise after I had my shoes changed...
Didnt start right away...
But it's sounding like it could be the primary chain so I tryed to take out a little slack.. And no i didnt do it properly.. But it was lose as it sat.. But it didnt do no good..
How would you tell compensator or chain noise since it is said on the net to sound about the same
 

·
weird member
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
Well, if the chain is properly adjusted, when you first start it up and shut it off most especially, if you hear a rattle that sounds like rocks rolling around, that's the compensator banging (could be loose comp nut or comp assembly went bad).

If the chain is too tight, you'll feel it (might feel jerky, especially when it's hot), but a loose chain usually you'll hear, particularly when cold, a slap that kind of just goes "tick, tick, tick, tick".

"Tick... tick... tick..." is chain, "clang-clang-clang" is compensator.

But the only way to really tell it's the comp, is to make sure the chain is properly adjusted. Though other things can make noise too, like a bad clutch bearing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Das Motorrad

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The best way to describe it is chain being pulled off metal...
And it only makes the noise like that during riding and moving...
Theres another sound that sounds like a peice of sheet metal fender what have you rattling around when I rev the engine up..
Infact if you put your ear on the front fender. Youd swear there was a lose bolt or nut...
Ive checked all the bolts on the fender breaks disk everything but the forks and nothing lose...
Ill have to look into adjusting the chain properly... When I did mess with it it was lose...
And I didnt tighten it much...
Could they have tightened the belt to much and cause an issue when changing the tires?
 

·
weird member
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
I mean, maybe? Usually though, just changing the tire, if they didn't do an adjustment, would be just as tight as it was before I think. The final belt drive is tightened my moving the wheel back, which involves loosening the axle, tigthening adjuster bolts evenly on both sides, etc. If they didn't touch the adjuster bolts, then it should be the same tightness it was before. I never loosened the belt to pull the axle, I always just stuck a wrench on it and twisted while pushing it from the other side. Then wheel goes back on exactly same place it was before.

But, I haven't worked on Sportsters, so I dunno how much different those would be. I also have no idea what the symptoms would be of a belt that was too tight.

Quick and dirty belt test is go out there midway on the top strand and see if you can turn the belt 90°. That's not the proper way to check it, but it's likely too tight if you can't... at least on a big twin. Really you're supposed to measure the deflection with 10 lbs of force or something like that. They even make a tool for it.

And the chain, man I never could adjust them right through the chain inspection, trying to lift the tensioner and measure slack, I just take the whole primary cover off. Yeah, cover gasket (for mine anyway) is like $20-30, not the cheapest way to do it but I can know it's right. Plus, I keep my chain at the tighter end, roll the thing over until I find the tightest spot (cold) then tighten it to the tightest side of the spec range, but I have less clearance because of my setup.

Usually if it's light chain slap, that goes away when you rev up or start moving, not get worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Makes sense centrifugal force would slightly tighten the chain... While reving...
I just dont want the tire to lock up on me..
That tire was to damn expensive.. And litteraly has at most 50 miles on it...
Ill put her on the lift and try and adjust the chain...
And see if its still there... Was just hoping to get into the non riding season to tear it back down...
I was gonna up grade the clutch pack... Maybe put in a hand saver... My arthritis after a little bit if riding kills me...
But its a cable driven clutch so they were usually stiff...
How hard is pulling off the primary might as well paint it up if I'm gonna do it... Along with that how hard is it to pull off the cam cover also it needs some paint... Or is it easyer to rattle can the cam cover with some masking tape
 

·
weird member
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
I dunno about pulling it off on a Sportster, their primary is completely different from a big twin.

You also don't need to pull the whole primary, just the cover.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WiSeNhEiMeR

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,483 Posts
Sounds like maybe the brake rotor is dragging or something is between the rotor and caliber. Why did you think the primary chain was the problem?
 

·
Retired citizen
Joined
·
23,203 Posts
Without knowing how many miles are on said Sportster a multitude of things could be making the noise.
If it sounds like noise from the primary I'd be checking the chain shoe first thing. When the shoe wears thru the chain is metal on metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like maybe the brake rotor is dragging or something is between the rotor and caliber. Why did you think the primary chain was the problem?
I did put it up and spun the front tire and there is no noise of course its not goung as fast as riding it...
But I have tryed turn off the engine and using just the front then rear break and there us no difference in the sound...
I did idol the bike a at a stand still and I dont have the metalic sound sitting still. But I do have a rattle that youd swear was the front fender you can put your ear right on it and it sounds like its the issue. I've tightened every thing looked for loose welds..
Also checked the spokes the break caliper and pads for rattle...
What type of sound would a bad bearing with in the primary sound like and or the clutch cage....
The clutch us smooth and the sound doesnt go away when you pull in the clutch...
And you have to be moving for the primary sound to happen .. I do think im chasing teo different things but I could be wrong
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Without knowing how many miles are on said Sportster a multitude of things could be making the noise.
If it sounds like noise from the primary I'd be checking the chain shoe first thing. When the shoe wears thru the chain is metal on metal.
How is that checked? Pulling the primary off?
 

·
Retired citizen
Joined
·
23,203 Posts
How is that checked? Pulling the primary off?
You can see the adjuster shoe thru the inspection cover using a mirror and flashlight. Test the chain tension first, when the shoe breaks apart the chain gets extra loose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Inkfreak1976

·
Flats where its at
Joined
·
35 Posts
Makes sense centrifugal force would slightly tighten the chain... While reving...
I just dont want the tire to lock up on me..
That tire was to damn expensive.. And litteraly has at most 50 miles on it...
Ill put her on the lift and try and adjust the chain...
And see if its still there... Was just hoping to get into the non riding season to tear it back down...
I was gonna up grade the clutch pack... Maybe put in a hand saver... My arthritis after a little bit if riding kills me...
But its a cable driven clutch so they were usually stiff...
How hard is pulling off the primary might as well paint it up if I'm gonna do it... Along with that how hard is it to pull off the cam cover also it needs some paint... Or is it easyer to rattle can the cam cover with some masking tape
primary chain cover is easy childs play... in fact i used to use silicone sealer instead of a gasket, wait till tacky and seal er up... make sure no silicone gets in the holes fill w/ oil /start next day [1 day drying time]...... PRIMARY SIDE "do NOT remove" unless u got a book,,, no joke!!! all 4 cams and all the shims will drop out [nightmare] when removed u do not wanna go there lessen u know what your doin.... tape n paint cam cover again DO NOT REMOVE...... also u can google it but I am pretty sure your "primary chain" should have "no more than 1 inch total" up n down play when adjusted correctly..... adjust cold jus sayin forgot more n u know the craze
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
primary chain cover is easy childs play... in fact i used to use silicone sealer instead of a gasket, wait till tacky and seal er up... make sure no silicone gets in the holes fill w/ oil /start next day [1 day drying time]...... PRIMARY SIDE "do NOT remove" unless u got a book,,, no joke!!! all 4 cams and all the shims will drop out [nightmare] when removed u do not wanna go there lessen u know what your doin.... tape n paint cam cover again DO NOT REMOVE...... also u can google it but I am pretty sure your "primary chain" should have "no more than 1 inch total" up n down play when adjusted correctly..... adjust cold jus sayin forgot more n u know the craze
Thanks sir... Im gonna look into a clutch set and just do it all at once .. This bike will be completly rebuilt besides the trans after this...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Just a tid-bit of advice that i wish someone would have told me long ago, but didn't: Take the time to thoroughly trouble shoot any issues that have arisen and "Know the fix" before jumping in to a tear down! Nothing will cause alcoholism faster than spending a ton of cash and time to overhaul something, just to find it really didn't change or help a damn thing! Because the whole problem was completely somewhere else... Ask me how i learned this... The School of hard knocks is expensive and that diploma just keeps on slipping farther and farther away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Just a tid-bit of advice that i wish someone would have told me long ago, but didn't: Take the time to thoroughly trouble shoot any issues that have arisen and "Know the fix" before jumping in to a tear down! Nothing will cause alcoholism faster than spending a ton of cash and time to overhaul something, just to find it really didn't change or help a damn thing! Because the whole problem was completely somewhere else... Ask me how i learned this... The School of hard knocks is expensive and that diploma just keeps on slipping farther and farther away.
Right .... Im really not finding any thing...
Everything is tight...
The chain is with in spec.. I just dont know what else to look at..
Only thing i know for sure is that it was not making this noise before I got the tires put on oh and they shoved in some brake pads in the rear for me also...
It started the noise like 25 miles after the tires were replaced...
It happens any time the bike is moving.. In neutral clutch in engine off and all gears...
If you have any ideas man of things to check im all ears... Youve helped me figure out the rest of the issues
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Right .... Im really not finding any thing...
Everything is tight...
The chain is with in spec.. I just dont know what else to look at..
Only thing i know for sure is that it was not making this noise before I got the tires put on oh and they shoved in some brake pads in the rear for me also...
It started the noise like 25 miles after the tires were replaced...
It happens any time the bike is moving.. In neutral clutch in engine off and all gears...
If you have any ideas man of things to check im all ears... Youve helped me figure out the rest of the issues
It started with brake pads and tires.. I would start right there! Personally, it drives me bat-shit when someone else wrenches on my bike. There experience is unknown, and they are on the clock and in a hurry. I'm in no rush and i DEMAND that my maintenance be perfect on my bike.

If the noise is more forward, vs aft: Prepare to pull the front wheel off. This also requires pulling off the front caliper(s). That "loose fender" sound could be a brake pad not sliding on the guide pin. Or the mechanic didn't but any disk quiet under the pad and its rattling. If nothing is suspicious is discovered in the brakes, move on: Pull the axial to drop the front wheel. Inspect the bearings, axial and note if the axial nut was torqued properly, are the spacers on the correct sides? Just plain suspect and inspect everything that had been done out of your direct vision. Compare everything you touch and look at, to the service manual. Verify it is PERFECT!

Then in the event you find nothing... At least you now KNOW it is PERFECT.
Now rinse and repeat the back end... When you are satisfied all is PERFECT with the wheels and brakes. Now, you know the problem is new(er) than the brakes and tires.

So you loose one day, but you gained knowledge! Then the next time the bike needs new tires, the "shop" will only see the wheel...I put money on it!
That is how i would approach this. Your choices may differ.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Right .... Im really not finding any thing...
Everything is tight...
The chain is with in spec.. I just dont know what else to look at..
Only thing i know for sure is that it was not making this noise before I got the tires put on oh and they shoved in some brake pads in the rear for me also...
It started the noise like 25 miles after the tires were replaced...
It happens any time the bike is moving.. In neutral clutch in engine off and all gears...
If you have any ideas man of things to check im all ears... Youve helped me figure out the rest of the issues
It happens any time the bike is moving.. In neutral clutch in engine off and all gears...
The Primary chain isn't turning with the engine off!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
It started with brake pads and tires.. I would start right there! Personally, it drives me bat-shit when someone else wrenches on my bike. There experience is unknown, and they are on the clock and in a hurry. I'm in no rush and i DEMAND that my maintenance be perfect on my bike.

If the noise is more forward, vs aft: Prepare to pull the front wheel off. This also requires pulling off the front caliper(s). That "loose fender" sound could be a brake pad not sliding on the guide pin. Or the mechanic didn't but any disk quiet under the pad and its rattling. If nothing is suspicious is discovered in the brakes, move on: Pull the axial to drop the front wheel. Inspect the bearings, axial and note if the axial nut was torqued properly, are the spacers on the correct sides? Just plain suspect and inspect everything that had been done out of your direct vision. Compare everything you touch and look at, to the service manual. Verify it is PERFECT!

Then in the event you find nothing... At least you now KNOW it is PERFECT.
Now rinse and repeat the back end... When you are satisfied all is PERFECT with the wheels and brakes. Now, you know the problem is new(er) than the brakes and tires.

So you loose one day, but you gained knowledge! Then the next time the bike needs new tires, the "shop" will only see the wheel...I put money on it!
That is how i would approach this. Your choices may differ.
No im gonna be doing all my own work from now on ... I couldnt mount the new shoes so i took it somewhere... And they didnt charge ti install the pads... Ill go through it...
I do though have to look up specs for the drive belt it seems tight ti me.. Cant even flip it up at all
 
1 - 20 of 67 Posts
Top