[1/2 Ton]

Please Schmidty, Fritz or Kyle; correct me if i am off track here!

Take on a challenge, make some advancements, make some mistakes... How the hell else does one learn?
I am NOT busting on you! Just read through this to see my point. A couple of things to think through while learning and exploring with your bike:

In reading through this thread, it seems to me that when you installed the (then new) Hayden chain tensioner is when this chain slap issue begun. That pirate (downloaded manual) may have lead you astray or, you may have overlooked a very important step in the process of adjusting the tensioner:

Did you:
Remove the spark plugs and elevate the rear wheel, then put the transmission in its highest gear?
This is so you can rotate the engine ONLY in the normal direction of travel (via the rear wheel).

The first step after the primary cover is removed is to visually inspect the teeth of both of the sprockets. If they appear to be cupped from chain wear. They need to be replaced. (All the adjustment in the world will not correct for a worn sprocket.) Which leads to this question: How did the teeth of the old compensator sprocket compare with the new solid comp? Did you inspect the clutch sprocket for abnormal wear?

Did you try pushing and pulling on the clutch basket to feel for endplay? What about the front sprocket end play?

Then when adjusting the tension of the chain: Did you keep forward rotation load on the rear wheel? How many different points along the chain did you check the tension? (It takes a few, usually 3 or 4 times around for me.) It is a healthy workout at times.

This takes us back to that downloaded manual (Forum members HATE those pirated copies for a reason!) In all honesty, I have one of those downloaded on my phone, just as an emergency measure. If things go wrong on the road, it should be enough info to get me home. Where i can take the time to verify on the MoCo hard copy...

The HD Service manuals run about $140-150. The single best upgrade you can buy for your bike!

Does your version of the manual say to adjust the chain at the tight spot or, the loose spot? See where this is going?

Please keep this thread going and stay with the forum!

The members here honestly enjoy helping out!

It's safe to say: There's more years of combined Harley knowledge here than there are years of Harleys..

We have an enormous amount of "One, n, done" new members as of late. Some of the "real experts" getting gun shy (so to speak). A thick skin is not s requirement here but, it sure as hell helps! Roll with it! You'll be glad you did!

 

[1/2 Ton]

In Re-Reading the first post, I got this of it:

So I switched to a solid comp and Hayden tensioner all was well for 600 miles minus a whiring sound that I assumed was from Hayden tensioner after some research, then I developed some serious knock/chain slap noise, took primary cover off and found chain slap marks on top of primary cover. So I did some more research on Hayden tensioner and got paranoid and put my stock one back in, didn’t solve any noise issues I think it stopped the chain slap that’s it. Idk this is my first hd and I don’t really have any help and funds are limited of course. I’m trying to put a cart together to order the parts to get this thing back together. What I need to know it what should I replace, I really need to keep it less than 600$, I think I need a inner primary bearing, primary chain, not sure of what else I need that could be causing noise other than clutch hub bearing that’s the one I’m hesitant on as it’s 90$. 2016 dyna low rider 10,000 miles, stock 103 with magnaflow 2 into 1, destroyed comp at 9400 mile. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

"switched to a solid comp and Hayden tensioner all was well for 600 miles minus a whiring sound

then I developed some serious knock/chain slap noise, took primary cover off and found chain slap marks on top of primary cover.

put my stock one back in, didn’t solve any noise issues I think it stopped the chain slap"

So everything worked well for the first 600 miles after the conversion. Then chain slap begun. So to remedy this, he reinstalled the OEM tensioner.

So, if it was working properly allbee it with a different sound. Why then change the parts back to the original vs simply adjusting the tensioner (that now has 600 miles on it) again? In order to remedy the chain slap. We don't know how hard the bike has been ridden in those 600 miles. Drag racing or riding equivalently? Or the lack of a compensator placing more stress on the chain? Or a combination?

Throwing parts at a problem or, a perceived problem. Is seldom if ever the correct fix. As you stated Kyle, the first step is to understand why.. Not what!

I have yet to meet or even hear of anyone who graduated, this school in which we are all students of.
Could it be that to Graduate from the School of Hard Knocks; the Certificate is the same one the Coroner tags our big toe? Dunno, I'm still in this school...