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Fat Guy on the Ultra
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5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So 9 am i decided to install everything.

This only took me 2 1/2 hours including setting preload on rear. I did this all by myself and only need wife to help me set preload on the rear as i cannot measure sag while im on the bike.

A few tools and specifics you need before we start.

Model specific HD service manual.
Jack to lift bike, craftsman works well.
1 3/8" wrench
Standard sockets and rachet
Torx bit from hd tool kit
Adjustable wrench or goose neck pliers

H-D quad ring seal and fork tube cap o ring. Highly recommended.

REAR SHOCK INSTALL:
Jack bike up so rear tire is slightly off the ground.
Remove saddlebags.
Push, red line connector and pull air line out of shocks.
Remove top and bottom shock bolts.
Remove shock.
Keep shock upright to keep oil from draining out.
Once shocks and airlines are off bike, push down on red connector and reinsert the airline.
Install new shocks per instructions in box.
Set preload per instructions
Install saddlebags.
Rear install done.


FRONT SPRING INSTALL:
jack front of bike so tire is slightly off the ground.
Remove inner fairing cap as per service manual.
Remove calipers.
Remove front tire.
Remove front fender.
Using 1 3/8" wrench remove fork cap bolt. Dispose of seal.

----- this step is different then the hd manual, this way you do not need the fork clamp tool from HD. -------

Loosen lower fork clamp and lower fork to gain access to fork cap. Leave top of fork about an inch above clamp. Tighten fork clamp to secure fork and use adjustable wrench or goose neck pliers to loosen fork cap. Loosen fork clamp and remove fork. Keep fork upright.

Now back to manual.
Remove fork cap and remove stock spring.
Cut preload spacer per progressive instructions.
Install spring, washer then preload spacer.
Remove o ring from ahock cap and replace with new o ring.
Replace fork cap.

-------- different then hd service manual------

Install fork so you have access to fork cap, tighten fork clamp, tighten fork cap,
Loosend fork clamp and install fork in correct position. Install new quad seal and fork cap bolt. Tighten to spec.
Tighten fork clamp bolt.

Reinstall fender, tire, calipers. Be sure to pump front brakes before you move bike.
Reinstall fairing cap.

Take bike for a ride and enjoy the new suspension.
 

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Fat Guy on the Ultra
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5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ive responded to many threads saying how well I enjoy the upgrades. The brake dive is reduced drastically. And the ride quality is supreme. Its a little stiffer on normal road but gives you a better feal for the curves, doesnt let the bike squirm as much. The shocks and springs really shine on the hard bumps. No more bottoming out. The reason for the change was mainly for the wifes comfort, she fell a few yrs back and cracked 3 lumbar and it gives her a fit. So the springs help as to not bottom out on the interstate everytime we hit a chuck hole or something.
 

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Smiles. A lot!
Joined
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8,683 Posts
Ive responded to many threads saying how well I enjoy the upgrades. The brake dive is reduced drastically. And the ride quality is supreme. Its a little stiffer on normal road but gives you a better feal for the curves, doesnt let the bike squirm as much. The shocks and springs really shine on the hard bumps. No more bottoming out. The reason for the change was mainly for the wifes comfort, she fell a few yrs back and cracked 3 lumbar and it gives her a fit. So the springs help as to not bottom out on the interstate everytime we hit a chuck hole or something.
:thumbup: thank you

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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kickstand grinder
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1,549 Posts
You just put the springs in (progressives) or the monotube cartridge altogether? Standard height or ?
 

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Fat Guy on the Ultra
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5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Just replaced the springs for standard height HD progressives, Im a big guy so the stockers had alot of brake dive, now almost none.
 

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Fat Guy on the Ultra
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5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
It should have a reference sheet online for your model and gives you how much you need to cut.
 

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09 Dyna Super Glide
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1,691 Posts
I have a 2009 Dyna Super Glide. I recently took off the Progressive 412's and replaced them with Progressive 444's. The 444 is a very nice shock absorber. It delivers a comfortable ride while still performing well in tight turns and at higher speeds.

For the front end I removed the Progressive springs that I had previously installed and replaced them with Traxxion single rate springs and Ricon fork valves. With 10w fork oil filled to factory specs and 7 1/4" spacers, the bike rides great. There is none of the front fork pogo effect that is the hallmark of Harley's poorly dampened front forks.

The ride is now very smooth, with bumps that used to shake the frame being entirely absorbed by the front suspension. High speed handling is excellent. The new front valves and springs keep the front tire firmly planted on the road on ever the harshest pavement.

The front fork sag is still needs to be adjusted a little. I will probably cut the spacers down to 7" or even 6 7/8" to get it right were it should be.

Progressive(tm) springs are an improvement over stock Harley springs, but the Traxxion/Ricon setup makes Progressive springs look like a pogo stick by comparison.

Pete

Ive responded to many threads saying how well I enjoy the upgrades. The brake dive is reduced drastically. And the ride quality is supreme. Its a little stiffer on normal road but gives you a better feal for the curves, doesnt let the bike squirm as much. The shocks and springs really shine on the hard bumps. No more bottoming out. The reason for the change was mainly for the wifes comfort, she fell a few yrs back and cracked 3 lumbar and it gives her a fit. So the springs help as to not bottom out on the interstate everytime we hit a chuck hole or something.
 
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