Harley Davidson Forums banner

1 - 20 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just pulled the cover for the clutch adjustment and saw what I first thought might be water oil mix. When cleaning the cover for paint it appeared to be more like lithium grease. Should I be concerned? 1993 883 XLH Hugger. Is this a dry clutch or wet? If wet should I add some fluid if so what kind? thanks. From online search I get this for all after 1984 The friction plates will work wet or dry. The only reason you put oil into the primary is for the chain.8 oz.
 

Attachments

·
Kicking Rocks...
Joined
·
11,145 Posts
Get a proper Moco service manual
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,777 Posts
What Misinlink said.

I have seen really old oil and water condensate feel like grease, most of water has evaporated leaving spooge behind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For sure next month. Out of funds until then
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Maxz,

I have a 1993 Sportster, the clutches on these are wet clutches and what you are seeing is in fact a water/oil mix (I have this same issue from time to time). This is caused by either condensation in the primary/clutch (due to not riding the bike enough to bring it up to operating temperature), which would result in the moisture not being able to vent out of the breather tube, or it possibly could be caused by the seal for the stator wire leaking. Change out the oil, go out and ride the bike and get it nice and hot, change it out again (before the oil cools off), and you should be able to get most of any remaining condensation mixed with the old oil. Grab a service manual when you can, it really is a great help, and if you can also pick up a parts catalogue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bought it last month and it was sitting for a very long time. I have rode it for 126 miles in the past two weeks. I will get a manual soon. I want to pull the cover in time as it is corroded and paint it I will replace the seals when I do this. The oil in the tank is clean. I will change it and the filter as well next month. Being an older engine with 24K on it should I use a heaver oil such as 10- 30 or stick with the 10-40
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
If the bike had been sitting for any length of time you really should have changed out all the fluids first, also don’t forget to change out the fork oil. In case you didn’t know, on the Sportsters the primary and transmission share same fluid for lubrication (the drain plug is in the bottom of the primary case near the rear end of the case). I would stick with the HD recommended viscosity oils. You could most likely buff those cases out with 800 grit wet sand paper and then polish them to look almost new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
883cc and 1200cc Sportster motorcycles, the AMSOIL Synthetic 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil is recommended for both the engine and transmission. On 1340cc and 1450cc models, the 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil is recommended for the engine crankcase, Series 2000 75W-90 Gear Lube for the transmission and the 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil for the chaincase. Interesting here as well http://www.harley-performance.com/amsoil-vs-harley.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Please don't post another oil thread :what? It will start a war.

Go with HD recommended regardless of age or temp. If nothing else bite the bullet and stop at the dealer to talk with a service guy.

I would ride it up to temp, drain and refill, and then go for another ride. I wouldn't spend a whole lot of money on this fill as you will drain it out anyway. Refill with lube and you should be good to go.

Remember. It's an air cooled engine. While the cylinders may feel hot the motor may still be cold. Ride for an hour or so to make sure it's good and hot.

I wish I could even pull the cover off mine, but it's so darn cold out right now I'm afraid my bike might get chilly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm In FL and it's 32 here My poor bike only has a cover. I will get the Mobile V twin oil as it is much easier to get than to ride 10 miles for the HD type. I', not concerned with the crankcase oil as it is clean and yellow not black. That's for now. It will be some time before I can get gaskets seals ets cost me 2100 for the bike over 200 for the plate 199 for the classes 50 for the birth Cert 40 m ore for the license renewal I'm about broke I need gas money and some good weather this weekend to go cruising on her. Just done some round town runs so far and she seems strong enough for a real run. New brakes 30 New brake switch 25 New battery cover New rear tire 60 change and balance with new races 70 helmet 30 and 20 for the full face. Boots 50 glasses 2 pair and leather skull cap Worth it and much more ready to ride. Hell with it. Peace out My driver won the Nascar Daytona duals tonight I wish I had the dough to ride to Daytona on Saturday about 125 miles one way
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,777 Posts
Mobil 1 is fine plus you can find it on sale & stock up. Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41,404 Posts
The oil in the tank is clean.
The oil tank contains the oil for the motor.

The primary contains the oil for the transmission + primary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41,404 Posts
You can even use a gear oil in the range of 75W90, and a lot of people do.

It is the same viscosity as a 20w50 motor oil.

HD's Formula + is the same viscosity as a straight 50w motor oil/90w gear oil.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok here is the help question sorry guys. I just went and bought a quart of MOBILE 1 20-50. The previous owner must have over tightened the vent fill cover. The bolts are somewhat stripped and I,m afraid I might break them if I persist so I used the clutch adjuster hole to fill the case with a small mouth funnel and a piece of rubber hose. I drained a little under 1 quart. I added the new oil. It still did not come out of the fill overflow port. Is another quart needed to finish filling it. I can see oil through the clutch adj port but not close enough to feel comfortable with? Oil drained was smokey in appearance. No metal on the drain magnet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Issue with Oil tank Crankcase is I'm a little shy of full on the dipstick as I had to remove the drain hose and some seeped out. Problem is previous owner said I could use 10- 40. what he didn,t tell me is was it synthetic or Dino oil. I picked up a quart of Mobile super 5000 10W-40 but I'm reluctant to use any. and just outright do the full oil and filter change. any suggestions other than that? Note the oil is pristine on the dipstick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,777 Posts
Ok here is the help question sorry guys. I just went and bought a quart of MOBILE1 20-50. The previous owner must have over tightened the vent fill cover. The bolts are somewhat stripped and I,m afraid I might break them if I persist so I used the clutch adjuster hole to fill the case with a small mouth funnel and a piece of rubber hose. I drained a little under 1 quart. I added the new oil. It still did not come out of the fill overflow port. Is another quart needed to finish filling it. I can see oil through the clutch adj port but not close enough to feel comfortable with? Oil drained was smokey in appearance. No metal on the drain magnet.
Not sure you can use Mobil 1 in your primary/wet clutch? I did say it was good to use meaning in your engine.
Any one know for sure ???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The bottle says for Primary Chain case + Transmission wet clutch V Twin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,777 Posts
The bottle says for Primary + Transmission wet clutch V Twin
Ok then. If your oil on dipstick is clean and a new filter is already installed should be ok. Need to start engine up too operating temp then check your oil. A little low is ok cold, should be full when hot, from what you said already.
 
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
Top