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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy folks!

Just picked up a used motorcycle jack off Craiglist for $50 bucks. It's the aluminum 1500 pound one.

This jack -> 1500 lb. Capacity ATV / Motorcycle Lift

My question is where are the accepted tie down points on the bike in relation to getting the bike strapped to the jack (for more stability.) For those of you that say I won't NEED to strap it to the jack please note that I am aware of the fact that my intent to do so is not based on a 'need'. It is my preference. I much prefer to eliminate all together the increased possibility that it will be yanked off, pushed off, or fall off due to my having a bout of tunnel vision on any particular thing I might be doing on the bike. I am prone to it (tunnel vision.)

Thanks!!!!!!:)
 

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I do not have that model of jack, but on mine, there are anchor loops on the jack itself and I run straps to four points on my RKC. At the rear, I hook a strap to the rear crash bar/saddlebag support juncture on each side. At the front, I hook a strap on each side to the engine mount at the front downtube.
 

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Hit it she goes boom
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I've got a longer model, my straps are ratchet straps. Once I've got the bike up in the air, I run em around the seat as well as the front part on the frame (in front of the seat but not on top of the tank). Then I ratchet em down, if balanced the bike won't go anywhere. Word of caution. Make sure your jiffy stand is down, when raising the bike as well as lowering. When you raise it, lock the jack in position with the mechanical stop. It may be a bit higher than you want but if you step on the hydraulic release it won't drop the bike down.
 

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I have the same lift. Even though it's rated at 1500 lbs., I am a bit concerned if this aluminum lift actually can hold the rated weight. Since my FLHX is 810 lbs. it doesn't come close to the rated 1500 lbs. but the lift is a bit shakey when the bike is up. I don't raise my bike very high, just enough to spin the wheels but eventually I will lift it higher for some purpose and I also would like to know strap locations. I do have ratchet straps so this info will be important to me.

To lower this jack, one must twist the long handle to open the release valve.
 

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Hit it she goes boom
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To lower this jack, one must twist the long handle to open the release valve.
Thats the one thing I wish mine did, it has a foot pedal to release it and let it down.. thats all fine and dandy but if your deep into something and don't watch it, you can kneel on it and release the jack. Thats why I put it up high enough to engage the first notch for the safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have the same lift. Even though it's rated at 1500 lbs., I am a bit concerned if this aluminum lift actually can hold the rated weight. Since my FLHX is 810 lbs. it doesn't come close to the rated 1500 lbs. but the lift is a bit shakey when the bike is up. I don't raise my bike very high, just enough to spin the wheels but eventually I will lift it higher for some purpose and I also would like to know strap locations. I do have ratchet straps so this info will be important to me.

To lower this jack, one must twist the long handle to open the release valve.
There's a possibility I'm going to giving it a try this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. From an engineering perspective I'm not concerned about the Aluminum's ability to hold the weight. I'm mainly concerned about getting the bike CORRECTLY strapped to the jack for stability. If I need to modify the lower frame of the jack so be it. I can do that...but if I feel the need I'll snap some photos of the changes and post them.

Just don't wanna drop my baby. I would first scream like a girl..then cry like one after that.
 

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Just Ride
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Bottom of crashbar and saddle bag support on both sides. That's how I strap mine.
 

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The Fighting Chicken
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I have the same lift. Even though it's rated at 1500 lbs., I am a bit concerned if this aluminum lift actually can hold the rated weight. Since my FLHX is 810 lbs. it doesn't come close to the rated 1500 lbs. but the lift is a bit shakey when the bike is up. I don't raise my bike very high, just enough to spin the wheels but eventually I will lift it higher for some purpose and I also would like to know strap locations. I do have ratchet straps so this info will be important to me.

To lower this jack, one must twist the long handle to open the release valve.

Try raising the bike to the lowest mechanical stop and lock it. When the hydraulic cylinder is holding it up there is only one point of contact that keeps the jack from twisting. When you lock the mechanical stands it gives two points of contact 15inches apart that keep it from twisting. It's like balancing on the point of a triangle or on the top flat side of a square.

You'll be glad you did. I bet your bike shakes every time you torque on a bolt now. That'll be all but eliminated after you use the locks.

OP: sorry I don't use the straps but I like the idea of strapping to the front crash bar and the rear crash bars. I don't have rear crash bars on a street glide so I'd probably attach to the saddlebag mounts.
 

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Lift the bike until the jack supports the weight of the weight of the bike on the 2 rails that contact the frame of the bike, and the bike is levelled out. Then use ratcheting tie-down strap(s) to secure the bike to those rails (NOT the base frame of the jack). That way, the tension of the tie-downs doesn't change as you raise and lower the bike. No matter what jack you are using, no matter what kind of vehicle you are lifting, an abundance of caution is required to prevent injury and damage. Be smart and careful.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lift the bike until the jack supports the weight of the weight of the bike on the 2 rails that contact the frame of the bike, and the bike is levelled out. Then use ratcheting tie-down strap(s) to secure the bike to those rails (NOT the base frame of the jack). That way, the tension of the tie-downs doesn't change as you raise and lower the bike. No matter what jack you are using, no matter what kind of vehicle you are lifting, an abundance of caution is required to prevent injury and damage. Be smart and careful.

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Amen.
 

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DanglingFury, I use the craftsman type atv looking jack on my ultra limited but have done a few things. I pulled the casters and just slide it around garage to get under bike plus it helps go under since its lower. Much more stable without wheels. I also just raise it up enough to get the wheels off or whatever is needed. It is usually not up enough to not allow the lift lock but I just slide under the rails a 2x4 piece and it will not let it drift down over time if the jack were to fail. I have never felt a need to use a strap? The weight of the bike keeps it sitting pretty solid. Just how I have done it. Used it since 2003 on my Roadglide when I had it.
 

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Mquilty3, looks like u pulled the casters as well. I just never lift that height. Just enough to drop wheels and thats not often. Cant do a oil change using it so I use it very little but it does work fine. A friend has a 24x48 electric scissor lift that sits real low. He can ride up using very low short ramp, hit the foot pedal to lift up off ground. Step off and raise to up to 40 inches. Man that is nice but at 2500 bucks. Just cant do it. If I ever run upon a used one for less than 1k I will get me one. Would be great for cleaning and whatever. Just wishful thinking probably. But I look anyway.
 

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Wheels are still on it. .. I use that lift once a week to clean the bike. .. I hate bending over. ..so I lift it a lil higher than that when I am polishing on her
 

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I rarely use the straps myself , if I'm pulling something off the bike that will really impact the balance is about the only time I use them. I do however always use one of the lock positions , besides making it much more stable it takes the load off the hyd jack cylinder , plus if a seal blew out shes going down ready or not .
 
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